1959 Flying Scott 75hp motor

[maniacmichael]

Hi, I am a new member that has recently purchased a 1959 flying scott motor with it’s original wooden 14′ boat from the owner who bought it in 1961. It came on a 1957 Montgomery Ward trailer all in pretty good shape.
Both has been sitting in his barn for 25 years and never stared. I did not want to just try to start it up and I am asking for any advise I can get before starting it up.
One of my concerns is I changed the lower unit gear oil and a cup of water came out with the old oil. Is the water coming out of the lower end normal or should I be concerned?
I live in Portland, Oregon and most marine shops will not touch this boat.

Any advise on what I should do before firing up this motor and the water in the lower unit would be greatly appreciated, Michael

[david-bartlett]

Michael,

Welcome! Sounds like you have a nice boat/motor there.

As for the water in the gear oil, that is not good, especially if it has been there for years. There is likely rust on the gears and bearings in the lower unit, and possibly freeze damage from expansion. You will likely need to open it up and look inside.

At the very least, remove the spark plugs and put in some oil/lubricant and turn it over by hand a few times.

More advise to follow from other members.

[garry-in-michigan]

Water is a BIG concern do to possible rusting of gears and bearings. There is also the possibility of cracks in the geargase do to freezing in cold weather. It is always a good idea to squint fogging oil in the powerhead and replacing the rubber water pump impeler while you check out the lower unite. Clean and adjust the breaker points and check the fuel system for bad rubber components and clogging stale gas & oil residue. Bob McMulloch had some great ideas. I have always thought that was the 75 that Evinrude should have built. They did it, but a decade later. . . 😉

[maniacmichael]

Thanks for the advise and I will have the lower unit checked out. Michael

[mas]

How ’bout posting a pic? I’ve been tempted in acquiring one of those motors…but I’ve got too many other big motors.

Mas

[jeff-register]

Yes, Welcome aboard! If I may ask do you have mechanical experience & tools? Let’s hope the water only got the driveshaft a little. Yes I agree, the cooling impeller is rotted by now. Before putting any money into it check the compression using a pressure gauge
See if the heart of the motor is OK. Then move forward to a major tune up & resealing of the gearset. The Scott guy had many parts for your motor but he has passed. I have tried to track them & I think they have been sold to another party. When he desides market them is anyones guess. When you spin the motor over with spark plugs removed be sure to ground the plug wires or magneto may be hurt. ScottAtwater & Mac motors are great runners as many ran them racing go carts, very fast!
Good luck with your motor & please ask before damaging the motor. Post the serial number too so we can I.D. it too.

[PugetSoundBoater]

there is a CL ad in Portland,or right now for a Flying Scott for $100 .Seller thinks it is a 45hp, Lower unit might swap?

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[maniacmichael]

I do have some mechanical experience and tools, but none with outboard motors. The motor did come with it’s repair manual and wow all the gears and seals.
If someone knows where to get the impellor and any seals I would need, I would appreciate it.
I am not sure how to ground the plugs out. Do just disconnect them and then what? I do have a compression guage.
I would love to post a picture, but not sure with this web site. I spent 3 full days cleaning it.
Thanks, Michael

[amuller]

The point of grounding the plug wires is that if the magneto coils are "open circuit" high voltages can be created that can puncture insulation. Normally, the voltage is limited to that needed to spark across the plug gap. So whenever the motor is cranked over, as for a compression check, with the plug wires disconnected, the plug wires should be shorted to ground. I have a pair of plugs with wire taped to the shells and an alligator clip on the other end.
Of course if there is a magneto kill switch of some sort that will also work.

Lots of people do compression checks without bothering with this and get away with it, but…..

[maniacmichael]

I wanted to thank everybody for the great advise and I checked the compression and is 120 in each cylinder. I am going to work on the lower end next. Here are some pictures if interested,

Michael

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