Another Javelin question: starter motor

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NJ-boatbuilder57
Posts: 31
Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2017 10:59 am
Location: New Jersey

Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby NJ-boatbuilder57 » Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:28 pm

The restoration continues!

This is my first electric start engine, and I am genuinely stunned to measure the starting current at 225A. Measured with a Fluke clamp-on meter and a known-good, strong battery (from my truck), the data is right there on the meter: 225A.

This is MUCH higher than a typical car starter, so I have to ask: is this correct? Or is this starter in need of rebuilding / replacing?

I've googled but can't seem to find a definitive answer. Anyone know for sure?

Thanks!

FrankR
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Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby FrankR » Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:35 pm

I don't know which specific starter you have, but looking at one in random, I see 170 Amps at stall test.

Jeff Register
Central Arizona Chapter President
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Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby Jeff Register » Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:02 pm

I'm with Frank,
Bad fields or shot bushings. Chevy used paper to insulate the fields, 1 rain & they are wet & decomposing, heavy draw, no magnitisun & less force, Yea I can't spell. We are talking starters, right

NJ-boatbuilder57
Posts: 31
Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2017 10:59 am
Location: New Jersey

Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby NJ-boatbuilder57 » Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:27 pm

if LRA = 170A for this size starter, then FLA = 225A seems way wrong.

Are these specs published somewhere?

Jeff Register
Central Arizona Chapter President
Posts: 936
Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2015 7:19 pm
Location: Mesa, Arizona

Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby Jeff Register » Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:34 pm

Na,
R.L.A.= running amp draw
F.L.A.=full load amperes & next is locked rotor amps & higher,
Friction is evident :mrgreen:

NJ-boatbuilder57
Posts: 31
Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2017 10:59 am
Location: New Jersey

Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby NJ-boatbuilder57 » Mon Nov 13, 2017 10:22 pm

So what's an appropriate replacement? The OMC part number from '57 seems to be 376850, which (according to marineengine.com) rolls into several newer numbers, which fan out to dozens of different manufacturers' offerings, ranging in price from $50 to $200. Sure seems easy to make a purchasing error.

Any suggestions?

Jerry Ahrens
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Location: Lake of the Ozarks Mo.

Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby Jerry Ahrens » Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:19 am

The Arco 5376 would be a good choice. I've put on a gazillion Arco starters, aternators and power trim motors, etc. never had a bad one. I often turn to them vs. OEM to keep the price down.
If I remember right, the Arco starter is physically shorter than some of the original OMC starters, but will work fine.
Jerry Ahrens AOMCI Member MAPS Chapter President

FrankR
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Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby FrankR » Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:49 am

As you have discovered, there was a lot of evolution down through the years, and many newer starters will fit older motors. So, we don't even know if your starter is original to the motor. 1957 was the first year for 12V starters, and the truth is they weren't all that great. They were just adequate, and were easily damaged by stalling them or cranking for extended time.

I am presuming you may have the MDO which is where I got the 170 figure. But look at the difference between MCO and MDW specs. The MDW draws fewer amps but has considerably more ft/lbs of torque. Sorry, I don't have a chart for newer models.

Image

FrankR
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Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2015 6:32 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby FrankR » Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:02 am

BTW, note that the specs are for 10 running Volts at the starter (4 V stall). In theory, at least, if you are supplying more voltage, like 11 V or more, the Amperage would go higher.

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Mumbles
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Re: Another Javelin question: starter motor

Postby Mumbles » Tue Nov 14, 2017 10:06 am

Before shelling out for a new starter, why not remove the lower end cap and check the condition of the lower thrust washer? If it is badly worn or missing, it will allow the armature to drop causing the commutator segments to short out to the end cap. Symptoms of this are a dragging starter and high current draw.
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