dmbono wrote:You can still use my method with a three jaw. The soldered blank is no longer round, but you only need to get the split line roughly centered. I've made many split bushings by this method. No, you don't want the bushing to rotate in the rod. Yes, soft solder is used, not silver solder. That means any type of plumbing solder will do.
SquierKA39 wrote:I think someone said the speedifour had the same size roller bearings? Maybe you could find a set of those.
51SeaHorseTN27 wrote:Another thought here, if your good with solder and your rods have tang slots you could silver solder tangs on the od of the bushings and dremel them down to fit. But if those rods were designed for roller bearings you wont have tang spots unless the roller cages had tags, most roller cages freewheel as they go around during crank rotoation. Other roller setups use pins to hold the cages, if you had pins in the rod and cap you wouldnt have to worry about perfection or bushing "slip", you could drill holes in the od and the pins would lock it in. In your case the roundness of the torqued rod and cap is the only tension you have to keep the bushing from sliping, make sure you run as tight a side clearence as you can between the bushing and the crank journal wear surfaces on the counter weights to minimize side to side wear it will put less stress on the piston pin connecting rod geometry at higher rpm an reduce the risk of distorting the rod big end and bushing from lateral movement at higher rpms.
51SeaHorseTN27 wrote:If your flats arent to bad you could chuck the crank in the lathe and polish those down to round with bands of emery cloth , semi course to microfine, then polish it with compound and a real leather strap. Otherwise crank shop can do the same and if its worse when you get it back its on them.
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