Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

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Richard A. White
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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby Richard A. White » Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:00 am

If memory serves, you don't even need to seal the pin holes... use tape over the holes on the outside and the coating fills the holes... I believe that is written on the outside of the can with the instructions.... a little does go along ways..

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Buccaneer
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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby Buccaneer » Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:22 am

Richard A. White wrote:If memory serves, you don't even need to seal the pin holes... use tape over the holes on the outside and the coating fills the holes... I believe that is written on the outside of the can with the instructions.... a little does go along ways..


Richard, I wanted to seal the pin holes so the phosphoric acid would stay in the
tank long enough to clean the insides out! Only the little filler cap in the
corner to look into the tank, so no good way to inspect the sides of the
tank as a whole. I like the "idea" of un-soldering the top of the tank, but
not the potential for screwing it up!

dmbono
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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby dmbono » Wed Oct 10, 2018 9:49 am

I would lay off of the acid treatment, and preserve the steel that's left. POR makes "Marine Clean" solvent that will clean the tank better than anything else, and will not eat up the metal. Redkote will seal up the remaining rust.

dmbono
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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby dmbono » Wed Oct 10, 2018 9:49 am

The existing solder joint looks good, I wouldn't mess with it.

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Tubs
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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby Tubs » Wed Oct 10, 2018 11:59 am


I don't know if this will work but you could try melting some wax
over the pin holes to see if this will keep the solution in the
tank long enough for it to clean and etch the inside. Using
phosphoric acid is a real crap shoot in a rusty tank. You could
have nothing left. I would consider the "Marine Clean" Dave is
recommending.

If you decide to unsolder the tank you have a choice
between the top or the bottom. Taking off the top would
be the best choice with your tank because of the mounting
bracket. Unsoldering the top will disturb the gas cap fitting so
you will have to deal with that when you put it back together.
I melt the solder and blow it out with a blow gun. When I
have all I can get out I start in a corner, heating the seam, and
lifting with a very pointed object (about 0:40 in the slide show).
Its really a pain to get it started but goes pretty well after that.
When soldering the tank back together you want to keep the
flame away from the joint but still heat the joint so the solder
melts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvOs21_AfMk
Image

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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby Buccaneer » Wed Oct 10, 2018 1:42 pm

Tubs, thanks for the tips and video! Looks like your
tank turned out pretty nice.
I decided this morning to try to remove the top so
I can thoroughly inspect and clean out the inside.
I turned some 14 tpi threads on some 1" pipe to
screw into the filler cap hole, so I'd have a little
leverage to lift up on the cover. Am going to try
after a while, so wish me luck!
Thanks.

bill_loveland
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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby bill_loveland » Wed Oct 10, 2018 3:25 pm

Take pics of what you find inside!

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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby Buccaneer » Wed Oct 10, 2018 5:29 pm

Tubs, your idea of blowing the liquid solder out with compressed air
worked great... Thanks!
I'm glad I opened it up, don't think I'd ever get all that rust and crud out
otherwise.
Now, if I can sandblast the insides without warping the tin is the
next question. Will try tomorrow...... too many interruptions today.
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Chris_P
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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby Chris_P » Wed Oct 10, 2018 6:29 pm

Do you have a soda blaster? Less abrasive and less heat.

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Richard A. White
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Re: Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

Postby Richard A. White » Wed Oct 10, 2018 7:18 pm

Most persons run their blasters at too high of a pressure thinking it is better..it is not...

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