1930 Elto Speedster Compression Release?

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  • May 23, 2018 at 10:16 pm #10018
    Buccaneer
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      US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

      It appears whoever tossed my Speeders battery ignition system
      found out rope pulling to start it will hurt, and then added a
      pet cock on the starboard cylinder core plug, for a compression release.
      A hole was drilled through the core plug and cylinder wall and
      the cylinder wall was tapped for 1/8" pipe thread.
      There was a huge gob of solder on the core plug around
      the pet cock. If it didn’t leak water, I’d be suprised.

      Not sure what I should do, put a pipe plug in the cylinder wall
      and a new core plug, or try to fix it up better with the petcock?

      If it goes together with a magneto, should I need a compression release?
      I tried pulling it over with a rope when I had the Speedster mounted
      to bench vise, but it fought back, and didn’t try a second pull. 😮
      Thoughts appreciated.

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      Prepare to be boarded!

      May 23, 2018 at 10:31 pm #76626
      pm-t2
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        Canada Member - 2 Years

        Are you sure its into the cylinder wall?

        That is the spot for a core plug. it would make sense if they wanted to add a drain. If it is being used for a compression release – I suppose you can use it for that, but I’d be concerned with it leaking – or worse.

        I’d plug it myself, but you’d have to be sure the end of the plug doesn’t extend into the combustion chamber where it can get hit.

        They weren’t sold with a compression release originally. THey were meant to be bump started with the knob. You can rope it, but you need the right technique. its not a lot different than any other engine with strong compression.

        PM T2

        May 24, 2018 at 1:45 am #76631
        Buccaneer
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          US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
          quote PM T2:

          Are you sure its into the cylinder wall?

          That is the spot for a core plug. it would make sense if they wanted to add a drain. If it is being used for a compression release – I suppose you can use it for that, but I’d be concerned with it leaking – or worse.

          I’d plug it myself, but you’d have to be sure the end of the plug doesn’t extend into the combustion chamber where it can get hit.

          They weren’t sold with a compression release originally. THey were meant to be bump started with the knob. You can rope it, but you need the right technique. its not a lot different than any other engine with strong compression.

          PM T2

          Definitely, the petcock was screwed into the combustion chamber, and
          the threads protruded into the cylinder 1/8" plus, evidently past
          the piston travel. 😯
          I’ll put a pipe plug in the threaded hole in the combustion chamber.
          Not sure what I should use on the threads.
          Perma Lock, JB Weld ?

          Photo is hole in core plug where petcock was screwed into the combustion chamber.
          I have socks stuffed inside the cylinder, getting ready for sand blasting, and that’s
          what you see in the ports and in the "home made" compression relief hole.

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          Prepare to be boarded!

          May 24, 2018 at 2:00 am #76632
          pm-t2
          Participant

            Canada Member - 2 Years

            Dn’t use JB Weld, you want something that will be easy to remove if you decide to do so later.

            Test it out first tho. If it don’t leak, don’t fix it.

            Heat-resistant Loctite or similar strong pipe thread sealing compound if you must.

            FWIW – I plug the compression release valves on my Super C’s with a pipe plug and a small amount of Masters Pro-Dope pipe thread sealant. I leave the works intact so it looks original. I didn’t do it yet on my new electric Super C, and it spread an oily film all over that side of the transom. If it gets plugged off, I don’t think it make much difference in cranking speed, and its cleaner to operate.

            Hope this helps.

            Best,
            PM T2

            May 24, 2018 at 2:05 am #76633
            pm-t2
            Participant

              Canada Member - 2 Years

              Your other comment leads me to advise you to put the Elto on a serious workstand or good motor stand prior to roping it through compression. Something with some weight to it is a necessity for working on bigger iron such as a Sr Speedtster.

              Knowing how those motors are put together and how much weight you’re working with, its easy to imagine you pulling your workbench (with the motor) over on yourself trying to horse with that thing if its just clamped up in a vise.

              Best,
              PM T2

              May 24, 2018 at 12:30 pm #76649
              Buccaneer
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                US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
                quote PM T2:

                Your other comment leads me to advise you to put the Elto on a serious workstand or good motor stand prior to roping it through compression. Something with some weight to it is a necessity for working on bigger iron such as a Sr Speedtster.

                Knowing how those motors are put together and how much weight you’re working with, its easy to imagine you pulling your workbench (with the motor) over on yourself trying to horse with that thing if its just clamped up in a vise.

                Best,
                PM T2

                Good advice for sure. I have a wood fixture that mounts in my
                6" vise. After the first pull, I decided it wasn’t a good idea to
                try a second!
                My work bench is pretty heavy, but it’s been in the same
                spot so long, I can’t remember if it’s screwed to the wall.
                Some day I should move it and see what all "parts" are
                under it that I couldn’t retrieve with my telescopic magnet!

                Prepare to be boarded!

                May 25, 2018 at 12:17 am #76666
                pm-t2
                Participant

                  Canada Member - 2 Years

                  Do you use actual silica sand for blasting? Or glass bead? Just curious.

                  FWIW I won’t use anything more aggressive than glass on antique motor parts, especially cast iron and aluminum.

                  PM T2

                  May 25, 2018 at 1:24 am #76669
                  Buccaneer
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                    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                    I use silica sand, and yes, I use a good dust mask, and I have a fan blowing
                    air my way from another room, to help rid the sandblast room of any
                    dust that may escape the cabinet.
                    The sand may be too aggressive for some materials, but I haven’t
                    really had much problem, and I’m not out for show room outboards
                    with hours of polishing. Though they’re great to look at, not my thing.
                    I sand blasted everything on this Johnson K-50, (except the gas tank, flywheel & carb)
                    and did some polishing with wire wheels in my dremmel, drill,
                    sand paper, etc.
                    I wouldn’t mind trying glass bead sometime though for carburetors, etc.,
                    How long does the glass media last before it’s wore out?

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                    May 25, 2018 at 2:07 am #76679
                    pm-t2
                    Participant

                      Canada Member - 2 Years

                      For the amount of glass bead work that I do, I get several months out of a bag of media.

                      I actually like it more as it breaks down, its a little less aggressive that way, and you can clean crud off the substrate and not destroy intricate details like casting numbers, stamped letters, etc. Just my preference is all. Main thing is the parts need to be as oil and grease free as humanly possible before they go in the cabinet.

                      I don’t do Dollywood polishing either. Not even on brass. if it wasn’t buffed at the factory, I don’t do it either. I like the less high-gloss finish I get on parts with the glass. Looks more natural to me.

                      Best,
                      PM T2

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