Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1980s Evinrude 7.5 hp overheating maybe
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fleetwin.
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July 30, 2018 at 2:12 am #10709
Just wondering my Evinrude 7.5 hp is running great but it does get a little hot. I notice water is streaming out of the tell tale but when I touch that water it is a bit warm, not hot but warm. The casting of the motor is hot to the touch. Does that sound normal?
July 30, 2018 at 3:46 am #80362Normal is 140 degrees Fahrenheit – much too hot to touch. Use an infrared digital thermometer or a Thermo-melt heat stick . . . 😀
July 30, 2018 at 11:31 am #80371What year is the 7.5hp?
Keep in mind that it is the middle of summer, so everything will be a bit warmer.
The telltale might be a little warm, that is OK, as long as it is not hot, provided the stream is strong.
Has this engine been used in salt water? If so, and it is a newer model, you should consider doing a complete cooling system overhaul next winter…
Pull powerhead, replace upper water tube grommet, etc….
OK, just reread the title, it is an 80s model, so the grommet is suspect unless you know it was recently replaced.July 30, 2018 at 12:30 pm #80378Okay so it sounds pretty normal then. I just notice it seems warmer than the 15 hp Johnson I have. The motor is freshwater only. I’ll change the impeller this winter. Fleetwin, where is the water tube grommet?
July 30, 2018 at 7:40 pm #80410Just typed a reply, but it got lost, this seems to happen frequently for me here….
The upper water tube grommet is held in place by the inner exhaust housing, so the powerhead has to be pulled to get at it.
Like I say, the crushed grommet syndrome usually only happens to salt water engines, but it can’t hurt to go through the cooling system on this fresh water engine if you plan to keep it for awhile.
The other trouble spot on these engines is that the driveshaft/crankshaft splines tend to rust/seize together. Again, this is more of an issue in salt water. So, it is a great idea to pull the gearcase every year or two so that the splines can be cleaned/relubed, oring replaced. The beauty part of these engines is that gearcase removal/installation is simple, there is no shift rod connection to mess with…July 30, 2018 at 7:41 pm #80411Just typed a reply, but it got lost, this seems to happen frequently for me here….
The upper water tube grommet is held in place by the inner exhaust housing, so the powerhead has to be pulled to get at it.
Like I say, the crushed grommet syndrome usually only happens to salt water engines, but it can’t hurt to go through the cooling system on this fresh water engine if you plan to keep it for awhile.
The other trouble spot on these engines is that the driveshaft/crankshaft splines tend to rust/seize together. Again, this is more of an issue in salt water. So, it is a great idea to pull the gearcase every year or two so that the splines can be cleaned/relubed, oring replaced. The beauty part of these engines is that gearcase removal/installation is simple, there is no shift rod connection to mess with…PS Sometimes, instead of dropping my posts, this site seems to post them twice….Feast or famine I guess…
July 31, 2018 at 3:00 am #80445Oh well better twice than not at all. The site would not be the same without your advice Fleetwin so here’s to perseverance!
July 31, 2018 at 11:59 am #80457quote Severi:Oh well better twice than not at all. The site would not be the same without your advice Fleetwin so here’s to perseverance!Thanks buddy, means a lot..
I often wonder why I like this series of engines so much, even with their engineering flaws. The old style 6hps are much more reliable and bullet proof than the 1980 and later models, but the newer models can run circles around the old ones. Over the years, I have figured out how to stay one step ahead of the issues that plague the newer models. My years of dealing with salt water engines has shown me one thing for sure. It is much better to do preventative lubrication/maintenance, than have to apply the "heat wrench", drill/tap/helicoil. I was always in trouble for partially disassembling bland new engines prior to sale so I could lube up critical bolts/pivot points properly. Most dealers would have fired me, understandably so, but I was very fortunate to work for a family that "let me be me"….July 31, 2018 at 3:08 pm #80464If the three bolts holding the thermostat housing are tight or corroded in place, don’t use a torch to heat them up! I found out the hard way the housing is made of plastic, not aluminum.
July 31, 2018 at 5:13 pm #80471quote Mumbles:If the three bolts holding the thermostat housing are tight or corroded in place, don’t use a torch to heat them up! I found out the hard way the housing is made of plastic, not aluminum.Yeah, I usually just chiseled/broke away/wasted the plastic housing before applying heat…The replacement covers are aluminum though…
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