57 Johnson RDE 19 running on 1 cyl

This topic has 23 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 5 months ago by fleetwin.

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October 27, 2015 at 12:34 pm #2861
lakeboater
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Hello, I am trying to diagnose a driveability issue with my motor. I installed a new voltage regulator due to my starter was not engaging. I used a new old stock automotive one that looked just like the original ( the photo is the original) I’m not sure if it has anything to do with the problem but thought it was worth noting. The engine ran perfectly for 3 days then began to skip as if it were running on 1 cylinder. I pulled the plugs, the top one was a bit blackish, but the bottom on was clean and the electrode was white. I was thinking "water entering the cylinder" but I did not see water on the plugs. the wire to the white plug had a wear mark on it but did not seem too deep to break the contact, I taped it up and ran a plug tester on it (bulb style) it did light. I changed the plugs and ran the boat, no change and the brand new plugs came out looking the same (top black, bottom white) after a short run. I pulled the boat for the season and now ready to get into it. I’m looking for opinions on whether a coil was burnt from the regulator? or maybe a head gasket? or something else?

Thanks!!
October 27, 2015 at 1:43 pm #26137
frankr
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US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
OK, lets start with the voltage regulator. That is not a voltage regulator in your picture, it is a starter solenoid. The fact that you installed a car solenoid is a whole ‘nother issue. You probably burned up the safety switch by using a car solenoid, but if you got it to work, let’s let it go at that. If you burned up the safety switch—well you won’t have that safety feature any more. Besides, it may have been burned up before you messed with it.

Forget all that for now, because it has nothing to do with your one-cylinder problem. There are two things you need to do first: A compression test, and a "real" spark test. Those neon bulb testers are worth next to nothing. You need to rig up a spark gap tester, whether it be a commercial unit or simply a phillips screwdriver stuck in the plug boot and held near a head bolt. The goal is to see if it will produce a spark capable of jumping a 1/4" gap. If it won’t, the next thing is to pull the flywheel to see why not. Experience says if the coils have not been replaced, they need to be. ALL 1957 Johnsons have bad (cracked) coils unless they have already been replaced. Of course, it may be something simpler & cheaper, such as dirty or worn out breaker points. Inspection and troubleshooting are in order.

BTW, when you put that flywheel back on, you MUST have the tapers clean and dry and you MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 60-65 Ft Lbs. Failure to do so may lead to extreme damage to crankshaft and flywheel.
October 27, 2015 at 2:39 pm #26141
fleetwin
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US Member - 2 Years
I am "assuming" that this 57 35hp has no key switch, just the two rubber buttons for choke and starter, correct? Improper key switch wiring could damage the coils, but your engine does NOT have a key switch so this is not an issue.
October 27, 2015 at 2:54 pm #26142
lakeboater
Participant
Yes it does have a key switch however, I have run it 3 seasons with no problem. Whatever happened, happened suddenly, ran perfectly all weekend the next morning the condition started at first start. The coils were replaced just before I bought it about 4 years ago. the boat gets moderate use, around 30 gallons of fuel a season.
October 27, 2015 at 3:54 pm #26144
frankr
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US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Back to what I said, check compression and spark. We’ll let the coils off the hook, so now the prime suspect is breaker points.
October 28, 2015 at 12:20 am #26164
fleetwin
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US Member - 2 Years
Does the key switch actually shut the engine off when turned to "off"? If so, using the stop lead terminals for accessory grounds can lead to melting the coil(s) by running 12volt circuits through their primary circuits.
Like you said, not likely that you did this while changing the solenoid, but mentioning it "just in case".
October 30, 2015 at 4:15 pm #26281
lakeboater
Participant
the key has some effect on the motor when shut off but dosnt kill it. I use a choke to shut it down. I am planning to run spark and compression checks tomorrow. I will post the results. Thanks for all the tips so far!
October 30, 2015 at 9:30 pm #26285
fleetwin
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US Member - 2 Years
quote lakeboater:

the key has some effect on the motor when shut off but dosnt kill it. I use a choke to shut it down. I am planning to run spark and compression checks tomorrow. I will post the results. Thanks for all the tips so far!

OK, so the harness probably does NOT having wiring to shut the engine off then.
October 30, 2015 at 11:15 pm #26288
beerman57
Participant
The mercury switch or cut out switch gone bad?
October 31, 2015 at 3:38 pm #26320
lakeboater
Participant
no mercury switch on the 57, I think the last year was 56 or it was removed long before me.
So, I just ran compression and spark tests top has 115 psi, bottom has 118 psi. I had a good arc on both cylinders 1/4 inch plus using a screwdriver to a head bolt. I’m thinking I should pull the head cover next and give it a visual. I keep thinking about that bottom plug, how white it was. Could I have a water leak into the cylinder, yet still have good compression? Any other suggestions?
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