Topic: binding drive shaft – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 18 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 2 months ago by mercuryspecialist.

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January 29, 2016 at 10:36 pm #3512
johnny-infl
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I know I have seen this topic before but now I can’t seem to find it – – –

motor in question is the Johnson RXE-14 1966 33hp converted from long shaft to short shaft.
this is what has been done so far – – – –
removed the 5" spacer
swapped to the correct size 17-7/8" lower shift rod
removed water tube extender
new seals in the gear case – all turns freely
new water pump, impeller and seal

went to install the housing – is hard to get married snuggly
then, after it is snug, it binds so badly that you can not shift or turn the prop or flywheel by hand.
loosened it all up, removed shift linkage clamp thinking the rods were not the right size
it seems the drive shaft is too long and binding ???
the parts book calls for shaft #554314 for the short (standard) shaft that is 27-5/8" long.
The shaft that I bought from a member here is 27-1/2" long, 1/8" shorter than required and
it "appears" to be binding.
Removed the impeller and woodruff key and shift rod clamp put it all together again, and it is
the only thing that appears to be the culprit.
Now, while refurbishing the gear case, I had a few issues that let me to believe this housing
is not original to the motor and could be from another year or horse power.
Who knows what has been done in the last 50 years this motor has been alive.

Shafts are EXPENSIVE – – – but, I want to grind off about 1/16" from the top end and try to fit it.
It is already a 1/8" shorter than original….. then, if that works, grind off another 1/16" for a good fit.
if that does not work, I will be out of a $80.00 shaft.
I can’t grind the bottom end off because I just spent big bucks on getting a woodruff key slot put in.
(I know now that I should have fitted the shaft FIRST) But, I was trusting the lower unit was original.

I know this is long winded, but, it helps to sort through the gremlins.
Thanks !!
January 29, 2016 at 11:07 pm #31017
chris-p
Participant
I have notes somewhere on my computer on this! I know a lot of guys will say that any of these gearcases swap around with ease, but they do not. Some of the drive shafts are longer than others, also the shift rods differ in lengths as well.

I remember messaging you when you were first looking for a drive shaft. I had thought that the 15 to 20 bucks shipping from my house to yours was too much, and that you would find something cheaper locally. lol. If only we would have known eh!?

I wonder if taking material off the top, will lose the length needed to engage in the crank splines?

Ill go downstairs and measure some shafts and let you know what I come up with.
January 29, 2016 at 11:13 pm #31019
wedgie
Participant
I’m betting the driveshaft is a wee bit too long too. Loosen off the lower unit a bit and see if it spins.
January 30, 2016 at 12:07 am #31027
johnny-infl
Participant
yes, if there is a 1/8" gap between the cases, the prop spins – tighten it up, no go.

I just measured the long shaft that came out of it and it is actually 32-5/8" as the book calls for.
subtract the 5" for the spacer and a short shaft should be 27-5/8" as the book calls for.
here is the rub – the shaft I have is 27-1/2", which is 1/8" shorter than required and it is binding.
am going fishing tomorrow so when I get back I will take two rods assemble the unit and bolt it up.
then, through the access hole, I will mark them with a marker, remove them, lay them on a table
with the marks aligned and see what that measurement is and go from there.

The socket in the motor has old black grease in it so when I inserted the clean end of the shaft,
I can see how it goes fully into the socket.

I have photos of both ends but photobucket is down for maintenance for a bit.
Both top and bottom splines are identical to both long and short shafts.
January 30, 2016 at 12:43 am #31029
frankr
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
Check the splines at the bottom end of the shaft. Some have a groove around the area, some do not. It all has to do with how the shaft’s weight is supported. Early models had a strap across under the pinion gear to support the shaft. Later ones do not use the strap, but the pinion gear is different and the gear supports the shaft.
January 30, 2016 at 1:01 am #31034
johnny-infl
Participant
Thanks Frank, out of desperation, I inserted the shafts into the bottom
gear case and marked each one at the top of the water pump with a file,
even tho they look identical, one has an O-Ring groove, one does not.
side-by-side, the optical illusion of the two together, a "novice" would not notice the difference.
aligning the file marks, the short shaft splines are the culprit.
man – it is the small stuff that can put you into circles scratching your head !!!
I will post photos when photobucket is back up and running.

I will try out my grinding skills and practice on an old shaft first,
then, if that works, I will extend the spline grooves 3/8" on the bottom.
Then, figure out to use the existing woodruff key slot and if that doesn’t work,
I will make a stainless sleeve for the impeller groove and go back to the pin.
just don’t know yet

THANKS to all !!!
January 30, 2016 at 2:20 am #31039
beerman57
Participant
Chris_P,
$15 or $20 to ship a medium size D/S? You need to check with other shippers, even if you have to buy $2 or $3 tube, that’s too much.
January 30, 2016 at 2:41 am #31041
retiredoz
Participant
US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
According to the ’75 Johnson parts book, the standard DS # is 384961, used on 33-hp thru ’70, also used on 40-hp ’71-’73. ME still has that, but the replacement is NA. Go figure.
January 30, 2016 at 12:49 pm #31056
johnny-infl
Participant
I think the bottom end just does not have the full length of splines.
after checking everything else, that is the only thing left.
Will address that issue tomorrow with a GRINDER.
then, that should bring everything into "specs" for the new short shaft.
fun fun fun

This motor was gifted to me to "learn" with – LOL LOL – and boy-O-boy, have I LEARNED some stuff !!!
Thanks Dude

.
January 30, 2016 at 12:59 pm #31057
chris-p
Participant
Frank nailed it, of course!

Your issue is that your shaft is not engaging fully into the pinion. Now, if you modify the bottom of the shaft to allow for that, your key for your impeller will be off perhaps? Ill check the key position, between the two different style shafts and let you know how they differ, if at all.
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