Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1973 Wards Sea King 7hp Neutral Clutch
- This topic has 7 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 3 months ago by
retiredoz.
-
AuthorPosts
-
June 14, 2015 at 10:19 pm #1754
I’m putting my 1973 Wards Sea King 7hp (with the Clinton engine) back
together after cleaning and inspection, and I’m not understanding the
neutral clutch shift lever set-up, or the clutch is broke perhaps.
I have a Clinton outboard manual, but some of the parts appear
different on mine.Photo 1 shows the shift lever and what the manual is calling a "Shift Rod Limiter"
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards … ds7hp1.jpgPhoto 2 is showing the "Neutral Clutch Cam" inside of the lower unit,
just below where the powerhead bolts on.
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards … ds7hp2.jpgPhoto 3 shows the top view of the set-up. The shift rod limiter
end where the spring is, goes inside of a hole below the magneto.
I presume this is just a tensioner to keep the shift lever in position.
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards … ds7hp3.jpgPhoto 4 shows the neutral clutch on the bottom of the powerhead
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards … ds7hp4.jpgIt appears that the shift lever clutch cam contacts the flat on the
neutral clutch when the shift lever is in the appropriate position,
but I don’t see how this does anything, as the shell of the clutch
that the flat is attached to, spins freely in
either direction by hand.
The clutch assembly has an counter-clockwise "anti-spin" feature
that works fine……. that is, the powerhead would only turn the
driveshaft in the clockwise direction.Is something broke on this clutch?
Also the Clinton parts diagram shows three different gaskets
that go between the powerhead and lower unit.
When I took it apart, there was only one. I see no need for
three gaskets with different parts numbers.
What’s up with that?Thanks for any help!
BuccaneerPrepare to be boarded!
June 14, 2015 at 11:28 pm #18120Yes, I’d say something’s broke. The shift cam is indeed a ‘catch’, intended to work sorta the same way the OMC/Gale motors or TNs work. I think the default is forward, and the snag loosens the spring for neutral. But it sounds like your ‘shell’ is detached from the spring.
My K700 parts list only shows one gasket for the exhaust deflector. The shift rod limiter is intended to keep you from shifting at inappropriate RPMS too, I believe, besides acting as a detent.lJune 15, 2015 at 1:53 am #18125Retiredoz, thanks for your help.
It makes sense about the shell attached to a spring.
The three gaskets I have noted on the parts diagram
are the ones in question. They all look like they’d go
between the powerhead and L.U.
The middle one’s part number is hard to read, so I’m not sure
I have it labeled correctly.
http://grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/wards_gaskets.jpg
Ideas on the gaskets appreciated!
I’m not sure the clutch comes apart, but will have to look
tomorrow.
Thanks, BuccPrepare to be boarded!
June 16, 2015 at 2:12 am #18177Now that I know how this clutch works, it was obvious that the spring end
was broken, and therefore not engaging the outer shell via a little notch
in the shell’s bottom. I decided for now I’d put it together without the
neutral clutch working so I could at least see if it’s going to run before
I look for or invest in parts.
I had the gear case attached to the lower unit twice and each time the
prop doesn’t turn when I rotate the flywheel. I can’t believe I’m missing the
clutch splines with the drive shaft. Of course, It’s a pain getting the water
pump engaged in the discharge tube in the mid section.
When I had the neutral clutch in my hand, it appeared that it would turn
the prop fine, even though the spring inside was broken.
Any ideas? I was thinking of finding a long wooden dowel rod and tap
it into the clutch splines and see what happens when I turn the flywheel,
but couldn’t find anything suitable in the garage…… maybe tomorrow.Prepare to be boarded!
June 16, 2015 at 4:38 pm #18205I’d throw it together and see if it’ll fire up. It’ll be OK to run it briefly without the water pump – it wouldn’t be operating in neutral anywhoo ? There is a spring in that clutch somewhere, so it may require a few more RPMs to engage the driveshaft ? It’s been a long time, but I coulda sworn the default on the clutch is forward. My service manual says if the outer shell is detached from the spring it means it won’t go into neutral (which appears to be your case) or if the spring is broken internally, it means it won’t engage the driveshaft. In either case, the remedy is to replace the clutch, and without sounding facetious, good luck. So far the only motors I’ve found to use that setup Are the J700 and K700 models produced ’70-’75.
June 17, 2015 at 12:15 am #18230Seen a clutch on Ebay $40 ish dollars with shipping. Will see if it runs
first and go from there! Thanks. Didn’t get a chance to work on it today.
Minimum, I’ll probably have to find a new diaphram for the fuel pump
before I can see if it runs. Also, It has a single line Chrysler style connector
which I have no tank for, so will probably temporarily hook up my Mercury
tank and hose directly to the fuel pump inlet.
Thanks!Prepare to be boarded!
June 20, 2015 at 2:32 am #18474I set up the Sea King in the test barrel with a gravity feed lawnmower tank to the original impulse fuel pump,
and had it running in about six pulls. I was surprised how well it ran, and especially how well it idled down.
It did pull start a little stiff I thought, but perhaps it would be easier if the neutral clutch wasn’t disabled.
Now that I know it runs, perhaps I’ll buy an impeller to cool the exhaust housing…… had my doubts if the
old impeller was pumping. Maybe I’ll even come across a working neutral clutch.
Nice to see my $20 purchase wasn’t a complete loss!Prepare to be boarded!
June 20, 2015 at 5:38 am #18481Well, there ya go ! Lots of those temperamental little one-lungers turn out to have lots of life left. I suspect many were bought by people with sparse knowledge of outboards, and got parked as soon as anything went awry, like a failing clutch ?
Ebay is a good source for impellers, and the Chrysler/Force fittings are readily available. And in spite of the so-so press these motors tend to get, it’s hard to beat the power/weight ratio ! -
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
