’83 ERude E5RHCTA 4.5 hp carb tune-up literature

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  • June 21, 2015 at 4:05 pm #18582
    seahorsedad
    Participant

      US Member

      Compliments to johnyrude regarding the low rpm on this motor. My Dad bought it specifically for the ability to idle it down for trolling. When the live bait wasn’t working we would always throw a Rapala on and get some nice walleye and pike. That motor made many a trip with us to Ontario and Quebec. We’d just rent the boat for the week and use this motor. So, Happy Fathers Day to all of you.

      June 21, 2015 at 7:59 pm #18596
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years
        quote johnyrude200:

        On a side note, I will say that those early 80’s 4.5’s have a really impressive low idle. I mean, you can almost count the RPM when they idle down.

        FLEETWIN: I have finally come over to the mindset that it makes no sense (T2ONE told me this last year) to fool with the ’74-76 ignition systems. Of course, there are several mechanical problems too, but those are pretty cut and dry issues to deal with.

        My question to you is, with these 3 years, do you personally just convert them all over to CDI systems? Seems like a no-brainer if the block can accept a powerpack.

        Well, I haven’t run across too many of the 74-76 models that were in good enough condition to do more than break them down for usuable components such as powerhead/gearcase. But, if I had a decent one, I would probably keep the low tension system intact, provided the mag plate wasn’t sloppy. Converting an early one to MagCD requires many pieces and parts, pretty expensive unless you have a blown/frozen donor engine with MagCD. The exhaust cover has to be changed as well, to provide mounting holes for the powerpack. This conversion also requires the updated head or else the spark plugs will jam against the powerpack.

        June 21, 2015 at 8:22 pm #18598
        johnyrude200
        Participant

          I have a reasonable stash of dead motors that I can cannibalize what I need from, so maybe at some point I’ll update one of these 74-76 models to the newer style CDI.

          I will say I just mounted a ’78 powerhead on an ’88 pan/leg/gearcase and transplanted the cable throttle steering onto it. Worked fine, except the ’78 powerhead is slightly different in that there is a section of the port side block that needs to be shaved off in order to allow clearance for WOT of the cable throttle system. That was a lot of fun with the hand file for 20 mins of straight aluminum, then I switched over to the rotozip with a carbide cutting saw blade (hot knife through butter).

          But the motor works great now!

          June 22, 2015 at 12:14 pm #18661
          fleetwin
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years

            Would love it if you can post a picture of the interference issue,
            thanks
            Don

            June 22, 2015 at 9:35 pm #18705
            johnyrude200
            Participant

              Found this on leeroysramblings website by chance when looking up something else which shows the difference I ran into (and successfully fixed, by removing a section of that block off). I am working on yet another one of these 74-76 models, and this is the 3rd one in a row with a sheared flywheel key, so I wanted to see why this happens (I read about it some time back, but forgot why this happens).

              June 22, 2015 at 11:02 pm #18715
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                Good information, thankyou. You are finding sheared flywheel keys because the flywheels have not been torqued properly during past repairs. Under torqueing, or slamming the nut down with a zip gun will cause a sheared key.
                Once the key has been sheared, the tapers usually get galled or distorted, causing future key problems even if the nut get properly torqued. You can use light valve grinding compound to check/lap the tapers, just be sure to remove the mag plate and cover the upper seal. If the tapers won’t lap in properly, the flywheel taper may have been distorted from over tightening/zip gun.

                June 22, 2015 at 11:14 pm #18718
                johnyrude200
                Participant

                  I ended up tossing out 1 flywheels today for those same reasons you cited. One motor, I went to unscrew the flywheel nut, and it was barely even on. Pretty scary, considering what can happen should that flywheel decide to come off while running. That was the motor where the key was not good.

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