Topic: Help with Johnson K-50 1930 Twin – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 9 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 6 months ago by mondobug.

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May 17, 2015 at 10:09 pm #1520
mondobug
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Hi everyone. I just registered to ask some questions. I have these two outboards. I don’t think the 1956 (?) Evinrude 5.5 Fisherman will be much of a problem because I’ve used that one a lot. I would like to get the impellor replaced – and the tank is bad so I’ll probably need help with that eventually.

Years ago, I got the K-50 running as a project. I never have powered a boat with it. Anyway, I just pulled it out of the shed and got interested again. Back then, all I really did to get it going (ran very well BTW) is to replace the condensers and spark plug wires, set the points and cleaned a few things. I guess it’s a 1930 because I have original documents from then. Still had spark when I tried it today but I didn’t run it.

The Condensers. Those little bricks looked bad so I just crammed two automotive condensers in and let the covers hold them. Is there something better available? Specs?

The Pump. The instruction book mentions a pump but I see no pump in the parts list. The instruction book is for more than one model. So does mine have a pump or not? Or does it just force cooling water with the prop? Here’s the issue: Running it in a barrel sucks because there’s no neutral and it gets pretty violent and wet. Can I take the prop off and make a fitting for a garden hose somehow?

Gear Oil. The book says to use Mobiloil C. I forget what I tried, probably typical 80 weight but it just ran out – and I’m pretty sure it just ran out along the prop shaft. The parts list does not show a seal for the prop shaft. The motor is in such good shape it’s hard to imagine anything is worn that badly. So was use Mobiloil C really thick stuff? Or is something worn and requires replacement? Or is there another fix?

THANKS!
May 17, 2015 at 10:21 pm #16250
kees
Participant
International Member - 2 Years
no waterpump,
the prop push the water up into the cylinder waterjacket
no gear oil,
use a grease
see if you can find on this board with search words; "john deere" or "corn grease"
see this search possibility in the upper right corner of this page
May 18, 2015 at 12:50 am #16261
Doug Wilson
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
John Deere corn head grease is what everyone is recommending. as far as condensers in my A50 used some from a 60s Chevy tapped a hole up in the cavity where the original had been and it worked fine. Just got a 1932 K-50 and am going to do the same with it, may either use the plate from the original or make metal plates to cover where the originals were so it is not obvious what was done.
Doug

Doug

how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?
May 18, 2015 at 12:51 am #16262
Doug Wilson
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
the 5.5 you will have to pull the power head to unhook the shift shaft to be able to drop the lower unit. Will need a new power head gasket when you go back together with it.

Doug

how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?
May 18, 2015 at 8:45 am #16307
mondobug
Participant
Thanks for the help guys. I’m sure I’ll need more as I dig into to these. The gas tank for the Evinrude is pretty far gone so I’m toying with the idea of converting it to a single line with fuel pump. Years ago, I replaced the coils as the insulation was shot. I remember them being pretty rare and expensive even back then, probably late 80’s. This motor has been in the family since the mid 1960s so I don’t think the pump was ever serviced.

Since the K-50 doesn’t have a pump, I guess the idea of running it prop-less would work for testing? Has anyone made a hose fitting for the water inlet and what did it look like? Or maybe make a fitting small enough to clear the prop?

Thanks again!
May 18, 2015 at 11:24 am #16313
stanley
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
You can take the prop off and shove a hose into the outflow opening(the one behind the prop).You can just tape it in place or make a plug that allows you to attach the hose.
May 18, 2015 at 1:15 pm #16319
kees
Participant
International Member - 2 Years
maybe there is a little plug at the bottom of the cylinder block, maybe you can use that to attach a hose
but…..I am not sure ❓
others ? ……..with more knowledge ?

btw. the tank is in a pretty good shape with the decal still there ( for the most part )
May 18, 2015 at 2:17 pm #16333
The Boat House
Participant
May 18, 2015 at 3:31 pm #16351
stanley
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Tubs is right.He just helped me with my KA38 and A50.My A50 has that plug.Someone had removed it and put in a fitting to use as a tell tale.You could do the same and attach a hose there.BTW watch his you tube videos.(It doesn’t look like you need the one on tanks)
May 30, 2015 at 1:53 am #17168
mondobug
Participant
I wanted to thank you guys for the help. I got the corn head grease and tinkered over the past week. Motor checked out. 90 PSI in the top cylinder, 85 in the other. No spark in the top cylinder but I just cleaned the points and got it. How lucky is that? Sparks jumps a good 3/8" so I think the magneto is strong. I flooded it last night and couldn’t get it to pop again after the first one. But tonight – no tickle, no choke and conservative on the needle valve – it started on the first pull and ran on the second. Man that needle valve is sensitive! It ran cool. Here it is running. Camera didn’t capture the smoke too well and the flash stopped the flywheel so you’ll have to take my word for it.

One more question. It did get a little ring of corn head grease about a 1/4" wide around the prop shaft in the 20 minutes or so of running. Normal – or too much seepage? Overfilled it maybe?

THANKS
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