Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1959 Starflite V-4 50 HP
- This topic has 9 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 5 months ago by garry-in-michigan.
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June 18, 2015 at 2:36 pm #1784
We bought a generator, belt & cogged flywheel last year. This year we’re trying to install this on a 50519 V-4. It all bolts up just fine.
Now for voltage regulation. The engine did not originally come with a generator. What did OMC use for voltage regulation & where was it mounted? and… Just curious, w/o a gen. , how was the battery kept charged? Thanks, George 4TSQJune 18, 2015 at 4:01 pm #18369The factory generator kit included a new solenoid box cover that was deeper and included a 10 amp 12 volt regulater. We who installed these kits found the left over solenoid covers to be very handy to store the nuts bolts and screws of the motors we serviced. Since the outboard has an excellent magneto, the battery is only used for starting. A properly tuned motor will (should) start in three or four revolutions. Prolonged cranking indicates something is wrong and should be corrected. (Prolonged cranking WILL overheat the starter motor and can melt the solder that holds the armature together.) The heavy duty marine battery recommended by the factory will last over a month with normal use. (I used two heavy duty six volt batteries in series.) They went all summer with nary a whimper. A trickle charger may be used at a permanent mooring site, but the motor must be clear of the water to avoid electrolyses problems.
June 18, 2015 at 4:12 pm #18371Thanks, Garry! Where would this solenoid box be mounted? On engine or somewhere on the boat? George 4TSQ
June 18, 2015 at 4:14 pm #18373Garry, please read post: "voltage regulation". George 4TSQ
June 18, 2015 at 4:14 pm #18374P.S.
Most of the owners of these heavy outboards invest in a wheeled engine hoist. Use great care in moving these monsters. In particular give the tilt assist spring great respect. The safety lock on these is not fool proof and the fool that unhooked the latch with a screw driver had his arm broken in two places. . . . . . 🙄June 18, 2015 at 4:24 pm #18375The electrical box was mounted on the transom. The wiring is similar to the 1960 75 …
June 18, 2015 at 4:41 pm #18378You should try moving a 1990 200hp V-6! Our problem here is that , as tested, maybe puts out 22AMPS. Most older regs. are points, as you know, does anyone sell an upgrade? George 4TSQ
June 18, 2015 at 5:28 pm #18385Harley Davidson has a solid state regulator with the same specs. (12 volts – 10 amps )
June 18, 2015 at 5:54 pm #18386quote Garry in Tampa:Harley Davidson has a solid state regulator with the same specs. (12 volts – 10 amps )I don’t see why any of the modern solid-state reg. replacements wouldn’t work on this system. Just so long as it’s a 12V reg. and one side of the generator’s field coil is tied to chassis.
The current rating isn’t an issue, you just need to have a reg. with a rating greater than or equal to the generator’s max. output. Some solid-state regs have a current limiting option, which prevents overloading the generator.. a feature not present in +most+ older, mechanical systems.
June 19, 2015 at 3:10 pm #18433The current rating IS an issue. If you have a system that consistently draws 12 amps, it will burn out that little generator in about two hours. If the regulator allows the system to draw 20 amps, the generator will burn out in ten minutes. Check with a Harley Davidsen dealer.
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