Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1956 Scott Atwater 7.5hp – Looking for some help
- This topic has 13 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 3 months ago by reivertom.
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July 28, 2020 at 9:07 am #210132
Good morning, AOMCI Group!
I met Joe and few of you gentleman earlier this year in Novi at the Outdoor Rama show. I was looking forward to joining you all at a May meetup event, but seemed to have gotten cancelled due to COVID. Joe mentioned a possible lunch gathering next month in Livonia and I’d love to join, if possible.
I bought my first outboard motor for a 14’ fiberglass rowboat I have and was all excited to get it running, but the seller has disappeared after telling me he would help work on it with me. So I took it to a marina who said they worked on antique onboards, but they refused to work on it claiming I’d end up paying them $700 since the prop will spin when the gear is in all 3 positions and it shouldn’t do that so no telling what’s wrong with the motor. They told me I should buy their $400 4hp Johnson they recently fixed up instead…Long story short I didn’t listen to them and I’d really like to get this beauty on the water and learn how to maintain for years to come.
I don’t believe the motor has run for about 5 years before I bought it and seems to have been well kept by the sellers father-in-law. The correct fuel connector, line, tank need to be acquired – I only have a modern line/tank setup which obviously doesn’t work for the Scott. I can tell there is a spring that seems to be stretched and needs replacing which is shown in the attached picture.
I haven’t started to break it down because I’d love to speak with someone who knows these motors first before I make a wrong decision or pay someone to work with me on the restoration. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!
- This topic was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by Mumbles.
July 28, 2020 at 12:28 pm #210158Nice ’56 Gold Top. I have one just like it.
First things first, I’d remove the prop to make sure the shear pin driving the prop isn’t sheared.
Did this motor come with the bailing attachment which plugs into the side of the motor and the other end goes in the boat?
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July 28, 2020 at 2:46 pm #210165Does this rod move up and down when you move the shifter FNR?
The little spring has nothing to do with shifting and is a minor detail anyway.
I suspect your guy didn’t even diagnose where the problem lies (??)
- This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by frankr.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by frankr.
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August 2, 2020 at 1:47 pm #210667Does this rod move up and down when you move the shifter FNR?
The little spring has nothing to do with shifting and is a minor detail anyway.
I suspect your guy didn’t even diagnose where the problem lies (??)
The rod does not move up and down when moving the shifter between the FNR positions.
No, the seller didn’t diagnose. He was confident it ran based on his father in law using it 5 or so years prior.
Either did the mechanic at the marina. He said that since the prop moves in all 3 positions FNR he didn’t even want to open it up.
August 2, 2020 at 1:51 pm #210668Nice ’56 Gold Top. I have one just like it.
First things first, I’d remove the prop to make sure the shear pin driving the prop isn’t sheared.
Did this motor come with the bailing attachment which plugs into the side of the motor and the other end goes in the boat?
I’m going to open it up tonight and spend some time digging around. I’ll let you know about the shear pin.
Bailing attachment didn’t come with the motor, but heard it was a pretty neat feature!
August 2, 2020 at 2:32 pm #210672Since the rod does not move up and down, something is disconnected below the powerhead. Hint: Do not remove the powerhead. Remove the exhaust housing. Pretty easy to do. Lock motor up in tilted position. Remove the reverse tilt lock bail (that curved piece where the stretched spring is) by removing a few E-rings. Remove the lower mount springs bracket & springs. Remove the ring of screws holding the exhaust housing to the powerhead. Complete exhaust housing and lower unit will now drop down and away and you will see the shifter linkage above the water pump. It’s all held together by a bunch of C-rings, roll pins pivot pins, etc. All that stuff has to come out to access the water pump anyway.
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August 2, 2020 at 2:38 pm #210673Looks complicated, but old hat to us guys that kept them going with all the water pump trouble they gave.
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August 2, 2020 at 4:05 pm #210680Good Morning Brandon,
If you are not already, you need to learn how to turn wrenches on these old motors. Collecting outboards has never been a profitable endeavor for me and $700.00 would be a handful of motors in my neck of the woods. Most modern outboard mechanics don’t even want to work on these old outboards. That being said, I have a 700 page Scott Atwater service manual if you want it. Please PM me your email and I will send it to you. Have fun with these crusty rusty’s.Kenny
“The ultimate measure of a man is not where he stands in moments of comfort and convenience, but where he stands at times of challenge and controversy.” ― Martin Luther King Jr.
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August 3, 2020 at 11:37 am #210745Well , I’m the “Joe” that Brandon originally talked to. He came across as very enthusiastic young man , bound and determined to get this motor running. I told him to post is question here and that he will get a bunch of help, that the members are always happy to assist in getting an old motor up and running. And see… you sure didn’t disappoint. That’s why this club is GREAT!. Specially thanks to Frank and Kenny for what you have offered here.
That sure is a beautiful example of an unmolested Scott Atwater. I’ll bet “dollars to donuts” that the shift problem is a disconnect at the connection of the shift handle shaft and the shift rod. I forget what’s there, maybe a pin and a cotter?Joe B
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August 3, 2020 at 12:41 pm #210755Main shifter parts highlited here. Shifter handle rotates 3745-4348, which is pinned to handle shaft. That rotates 3745-4366 lever, which rotates on 3755-4399 long pin, which goes clear across the housing. 4366 then pulls/pushes shift rod up and down. Gee, it’s just a bunch of little parts and pieces.
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