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I do have those parts on hand. Run a parts list by part number from the parts book and send to me. I will give you a cost estimate.
Ed Elliott, eddelliott@cox.net
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That little o-ring on the drive shaft is critical. It keeps water out of the drive shaft splines Leave it out and the splines will rust & wear out. Result: it goes nowhere.
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Needle valves are 1/4-40 thread
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The one thing I notice are all the drag marks/scrapes inside the #1 crankcase, almost looks as though this thing may have tossed a rod in the past. The pistons seem newer because they only have two rings… Someone may have replaced the crank, or perhaps the “polished” some of the imperfections off if in fact the engine threw a rod. So, I would measure those crank pins very carefully along with the big rod ends.
Frank offers excellent advice by drawing attention to the crankshaft and driveshaft splines. Clean them up and examine the crank/driveshaft splines very closely. The last thing you want is to reassemble this powerhead only to discover the splines have spun/rusted away when you start the engine and the prop doesn’t spin!
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PS:
The bronze bushings in the crankcase look “OK”, not sure if they publish any sort of spec for clearance/sideplay other than the dimensions of the crank itself…
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The ball hone is a good choice, very fine grit just enough to break the glazed surface on the walls. oil mixture for that engine should be 16:1, use TCW3 outboard oil…
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