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My only experience is with the aluminum brazing rods. I would have tiny leaks and re-melting the repair might get rid of one only to create another. Searching, I found an “Aluminum Soldering Kit”. Ordered one to try. Be interested in your results. My thoughts would be that you would want to use the lowest temp possible as the aluminum expands so much, distorting the tank, assuming a torch is required. Tubs
I have a like – hate relationship with the aluminum brazing rod. I’m getting better but I still struggle. I’ve done several prop repairs. I made a lamp out of some junk Pal parts for a friend. The skag doesn’t look just right but its good enough for a lamp. The prop is on a Super 10 I did five years ago. I would think there is a fair amount of stress at the end of the prop. I ran almost 60 gal. of fuel through the motor that summer and then gave the motor to a friend. He doesn’t run it as much as I did but it still gets used a fair amount. I checked this year and it still on there. I did the hole in the gas tank twice. It came out OK but it leaked. I just used a sealer in the tank. When its polished out it wont show at all looking from one direction but it will from another. Decal covers most of it. Tubs
if you were more humble you would thumble 🙂
great looking job
they wanted 300$ for fix clipped skeg on my 75 ETEC … I went cheap with JB weld and Evinrude paint
holds up fine
While I do have some successful outcomes more often its an “Almost Worked”. Especially if its where its going to show. I use much more JB Weld than this brazing rod and its usually with good result. Tubs
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