Home Forum Ask A Member Poor top end performance – 1963 rx-11a

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  • #291683
    TJ Brandon
    Participant

      US Member

      Hello, I have had a few questions on this motor and you guys have been helpful. I am still working through some kinks. It starts and idles well but does not have anywhere near the top end power it should.

      I have:
      – Completely taken the carb apart and cleaned. All passeges are open.
      – Adjusted the float to be level with the body
      – Changed the fuel filter in the pump
      – Cleaned the points with a point file and set to .20 at tdc
      – Checkd for spark at both cylinders and the spark tester is showing spark
      – Compression is 100 +- each cylinder
      – Initially set the high speed needle 1 turn out and low speed 1.5 out and adjusted in as needed on the water and backed out the high speed just after a lean sneeze.

      The top cylinder plug is much more wet and black after running than the bottom.

      Everything appears correct to me, but I feel this is something basic I am overlooking but just not sure.

      Also I need to be better about barrel testing. Last time I thought this motor was good to go after throttling up and down easily. It wasn’t until i was on the lake I saw these issues. Any tips on how to run it in a barrel?

      #291684
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        How does the engine sound?  Does it seem to be running correctly, just not developing full power?  Or, is there a misfire, or perhaps running too rich.  You mention one cylinder appears wet, have you checked the plugs after a hard full speed run?  If one plug still appears wet, perhaps the fuel pump is leaking fuel into whichever cylinder it is plumbed into.

        What pitch prop are you using?  Someone may have changed the prop and installed one with too much pitch which is just bogging the engine down at high RPM.  The only other thing I can think of is that crazy “economizer linkage”, the horizontal thin rod that runs from the throttle roller back to the vertical throttle shaft.  This feature allows full advance timing before full throttle opening.  The adjustment is easy to mess up, and is much easier to set up with two people.  Unless the control throttle cable is connected, then you can advance the throttle fully (in gear) and it should stay put so you can adjust the economizer linkage.

        #291686
        TJ Brandon
        Participant

          US Member

          Hi Fleetwin, thanks for the response.

          the motor sounds great. No misses, starts up nicely, throttles up somoothly. For prop pitch, I cannot see it stamped anywhere on the prop. However this boat was owned by a firend of mine and when it was put in storage 5+ years ago it performed as it should. I don’t think the prop pitch would be an issue.

          Yes the plug does look wet after a full speed run.

          I saw that economizer linkage you mention and had no idea what it did but I did not touch it. I will try to find some google searches on setting that. I’ll also see if I can check out the pump somehow.

          #291690
          outbdnut2
          Participant

            US Member

            Check the easy stuff first.  Is the throttle opening the carb throttle butterfly all the way?  Is your choke opening all the way? Is the throttle spark advance properly sync’d to the carb (part of the economizer linkage Fleetwin mentioned)?  Try  swapping the two spark plugs around and see if it’s still the bottom one that’s wet.  I’ve seen bad plugs new out of the box in recent years with Champions.  Have you put a tach on the motor to see what RPM it is revving up to?  If you don’t have one, buy a Tiny-Tach or equivalent cheaper one online – link below – these hook up super easy with just a wire wrapped around a spark plug wire (no direct connection) for the RPM signal.  Note that is could be running on one cylinder – these motors run pretty smooth on one.   Try taking one spark plug wire off at a time and see if it makes a difference – you may find a dead cylinder this way (take them off when not running and then start it again or you may get zapped).   Prop pitch has been mentioned – did your friend have it on a similar type boat? or a bigger one where he may have run a low-pitch prop?  You asked about running it in a barrel.  To check out max throttle in a barrel, you need a “test wheel” instead of the prop to put a load on it in the barrel, and keep it from cavitating.  If this easy stuff doesn’t fix it, you could have a bad reed.  Have you checked compression to know you don’t have a stuck ring?   Be sure you aren’t running a short shaft motor on a long shaft transom, or vice-versa.  Here is a link to buying a tachometer:

            https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tiny+tach+tachometer&crid=2UNEI46YV5T9G&sprefix=tini+tach%2Caps%2C252&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_2_9

            #291691
            TJ Brandon
            Participant

              US Member

              Ok after staring at the motor, moving things to make sure they were free, pushing on all connections I could find. I decided to take it to the lake again and it ran great. :shrug: i really wish I knew what fixed it. It started right upband got right on plane and was smooth the whole time.

              Thanks for the link to the tach, I didn’t know thise existed. That will come in handy.

               

              Thank you for your time.

              #291692
              The Boat House
              Participant

                If it should return on a humid day, look for a leaking plug wire anywhere from the coil to, and including,  the spark plug boot. Check any place plug wires are close to, or rubbing on the block or covers. Tubs

                #291694
                crosbyman
                Participant

                  Canada Member - 2 Years

                  actually if not done you should refurbish the ignition from coils to plug boots  with 7mm copper strand wire.  plain metallic strandd works to!

                  RDX fuel saver info from RED book ..fyi re. linkage you did not touch …

                  https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/manuals/johnson-302231.htm

                   

                  Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                  #291768
                  outbdnut2
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    For prop pitch, I cannot see it stamped anywhere on the prop.

                    If you take the prop off, the diameter and pitch on factory props is cast into the aluminum on the prop on one end around where the hub is pressed in.

                    Dave

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