Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Can a cracked magneto magnet in a Johnson A-26 be repaired?
- This topic has 11 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 3 weeks, 2 days ago by Lisa J..
-
AuthorPosts
-
October 28, 2024 at 7:17 pm #291778
I have a really nice and compete 1922 A-25 Johnson engine. The engine is extremely hard to start and upon investigation after I removed the flywheel I discovered the internal magnet in the flywheel has a crack in it. Can this be repaired? I have been searching for either a parts/donor engine or all I truly need is the flywheel. Any idea’s to how to fix this issue would be very appreciaed.
October 28, 2024 at 9:56 pm #291785I doubt that is your starting problem. I would suspect low compression (below 65 lbs) or bad condenser. Assuming you have replaced the plugs, wires, and clean the points. This is how you set them. Tubs
This is the condenser I use.
1 user thanked author for this post.
October 28, 2024 at 10:34 pm #291786Amazing information Mr. Tubs. First I was going to change the condenser just for grins but here you were kind enough to supply me with a current part number. Thank you!! Second I didn’t know about that “S” mark and what is was used for so I’ll definitely use that. The little engine actually has great compression of over 100 on each side so I’m good there. I Just lost the wind in my sails when I saw that crack and just stopped working on it to see if I could either get the magnet fixed or replace it if someone had one for sale. I can see where the engine may have been dropped at one time and broke that magnet as there is a little bend there in the flywheel. But thanks for the information as I so appreciate it and I’ll give it a try.
I was also thinking about drilling the magnet and pinning it to keep the magnetic continuity together but your thoughts give me hope.
Have a great day and thank you so much for the information!!
Lisa
October 28, 2024 at 10:56 pm #291789I believe that the magnet is very hard steel , will not be drilled. Please let us know if you have success after replacing the condenser. I’m concerned that the crack in the magnet will in fact have created two magnets with their own individual N – S poles. You should be able to check using a compass. The original intact magnet will have one N pole and one S pole. If my suspicion about the double magnet is correct, I’m afraid that you are out of luck with that flywheel.
Please Let us know what you find
Joe B
1 user thanked author for this post.
October 29, 2024 at 10:55 am #291793I believe Joe’s theory has some merit. Here is a known good to compare to your flywheel. If the poles change at the crack, it may be your issue. Tubs
Video Link – https://youtu.be/9bX8HgW_UXo
1 user thanked author for this post.
October 29, 2024 at 11:41 am #291794Great Video and I can’t wait to get out to the shop and try it. I’ll report back here on what I have after the test.
October 29, 2024 at 2:52 pm #291795I believe Joe’s theory has some merit. Here is a known good to compare to your flywheel. If the poles change at the crack, it may be your issue. Tubs
Video Link – https://youtu.be/9bX8HgW_UXo
I have fabulous news!! I got a magnet exactly like the one you used and did the test and there was NO pole change at the crack. If fact the needle moved as smoothly and exactly like it did in the video link above. So that means that I’m on the right track and will replace the condenser, clean and adjust the ignition points and put it back together and I should have great spark.
Thank you Mr. Tubs for your great suggestions and fabulous video. Thank you for the condenser number and all the information you have provided to me. Also I want to thank everyone else that took their time to comment here. I so want to see this engine run even though I don’t have a boat I have a barrel with water to test it in.
I’ll be sure to report back when I get it running.
Lisa
October 29, 2024 at 4:26 pm #291796make certain the two halves don’t start moving around… a few dabs of medium density crazy glue in and around the crack and sides should hold it in place ( clean any oil residues before)
… just a suggestion mind you.
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
1 user thanked author for this post.
October 29, 2024 at 8:11 pm #291808Here’s the news you all have been waiting for – IT RUNS!!!
The shock of the project was going to Napa and buying a plain Jane condenser that would go in any old Chevy and spending $19 for it. I had to ask if it was gold plated. When I was in the business I would sell those in a Tune-up for $1.50! But anyway I got back and cleaned everything up. Got my volt/ohm meter out and tested everything. I had to build new spark plug wires and got that done. I put it all back together and pulled it through once and I had good spark. I then put the plugs in hand tight, removed the carburetor, sprayed a load of carb cleaner in the intake and it started easily on the first pull. It ran out that cleaner and ran good. Now I have to figure out the fuel mixture, mix some fuel and really give it a run in a barrel of water. BUT IT RUNS and that was the goal.
I just found it amazing how all the screws and clamps are brass, the engineering into the point set. The simplicity of the spark plug wires and the timing. While I don’t have a boat I do have the memory of a little 8′ boat I had when I was young and the little engine that was on it. I got my engine now!!
Thank you all for your help, suggestions and encouragement. I truly appreciated your time to respond. I’ll keep you all up on how it goes in the future.
Best regards,
Lisa
October 29, 2024 at 9:40 pm #291812There is “NO OIL” in carb cleaner. If you only let it run that 1 time there was likely enough oil in the motor from, back from who knows when, that you didn’t hurt it, but it doesn’t take too many repeated attempts to destroy a motor. Tubs
1 user thanked author for this post.
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.