Topic: Eska Experts – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 12 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 6 months ago by amuller.

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May 5, 2017 at 4:05 pm #6933
westwind
Participant
Canada Member
I’m sure you have heard this story, ‘if you want this motor, you have to take the Eska too’. Anyway, it followed me home, it’s an Eska Arrow with a Tecumseh powerhead. It has a cooled leg that uses pressure from the prop instead of an impeller, which I kind of like. It has spark and compression so I put a bit of gas in and it seems to want to start. It runs for a bit with the choke on but quickly stalls when I try to take the choke off. I’m guessing the carb needs to be cleaned, it has a diaphram instead of float bowl. Any info out there on how this compares to a standard float bowl? Any thoughts on crank seals causing an issue with these motors?

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May 5, 2017 at 4:57 pm #57160
frankr
Participant
US Member
1. For one thing, I agree, the ram tube cooling is desirable on small air cooled motors over that chintzy water pump they put in their larger motors. It "sort of" works in a barrel, but is ok on a boat on the lake.

2. Now that diaphragm carburetor—I come just a little bit short of despising that thing. I don’t know if yours has a fuel pump or not, but if it does, it is a bladder in the carburetor mounting flange. The carb inlet needle stays closed under a light spring pressure. So, gravity feed from the tank probably won’t open it to let the diaphragm chamber fill with gas prior to starting, making it a beast to get started. Once the motor starts, vacuum acting against the diaphragm pulls it up and opens the inlet needle to get more gas from the tank. If it has the pump bladder, it helps with all that.

Just my 2c.
May 5, 2017 at 7:09 pm #57163
westwind
Participant
Canada Member
The carb appears to be gravity feed. Would an old diaphragm maybe be too stiff to open the needle valve properly? I see there is a carb kit still available.

On a positive note, I checked the lower unit and it was full of oil with no water so the seals seem OK.
May 5, 2017 at 7:29 pm #57164
frankr
Participant
US Member
quote westwind:

The carb appears to be gravity feed. Would an old diaphragm maybe be too stiff to open the needle valve properly? I see there is a carb kit still available.

On a positive note, I checked the lower unit and it was full of oil with no water so the seals seem OK.

Don’t discard the thought of a fuel pump bladder until you take a look. Possibility on the stiff diaphragm. Also it must be air tight and leak free. Otherwise the suction won’t lift it to open the needle.
May 5, 2017 at 7:59 pm #57166
westwind
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Canada Member
Here are some pictures of the carb.

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May 5, 2017 at 8:49 pm #57167
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
One of my Eska’s had one of those little, orange, tubular
pump bladders. It seemed like it would run out of fuel at
lower speeds, and I suspected the pump bladder was
too old / hard to work properly, but I never bought a new
one, as I figured the new ones were NOS and probably
old and hard too! Anyway, I remember reading
something that the bladders had to be rotated
to the correct position upon installation to work properly.

Prepare to be boarded!
May 6, 2017 at 12:15 am #57173
frankr
Participant
US Member
2nd picture–is the high speed needle busted off in there?
May 6, 2017 at 12:46 am #57176
westwind
Participant
Canada Member
I was thinking a fixed high speed, hopefully not busted off.
May 6, 2017 at 12:59 am #57177
retiredoz
Participant
Buccaneer – the book says to install those at a 45 degree angle. I’ve got new ones if you’re still looking…
May 6, 2017 at 1:09 am #57180
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
Retiredoz, Most of my motors I just like to go through,
and hear them run for the first time. The Eska probably
isn’t one I want to run on the boat, but will keep
you in mind should I decide to ever take it back
of the wall and tinker with it again!

Prepare to be boarded!
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