Forum Replies Created
November 17, 2019 at 7:57 pm #187378
The SKF seals are made of steel. Obviously not a good idea for a seal that is constantly submerged!November 3, 2019 at 6:09 pm #186404
No they would not have made wood factory stands. It will be home made then.
The model I pictured is a J Model 4hp.November 3, 2019 at 6:04 pm #186403
No it is in a groove on the shaft. Take the assembly apart from the inside, pull the shaft out, and you will see the o ring.
Very good ideal to change it while you have it that far.November 3, 2019 at 2:38 pm #186378
I guess depends on what really nice condition is.
If the chrome does not need re chroming could very well be worth that, especially with a nice factory stand!
I attached a pic of one I did last year. I started with very poor chrome and metal, so had to put a lot of hours into it! If I were to do another Ruddertwin, I would pay more for a better example to start with.
You must be logged in to access attached files.September 30, 2019 at 7:04 pm #184345
Hope all is well.
I can help you with the parts you may need. As stated, I have substituted Harley Regulators that work out well. If you have the oversize box, and the generator, you may as well use it!September 23, 2019 at 9:01 pm #183963
I would seriously consider what Frank said. Very often that is the case.September 23, 2019 at 8:59 pm #183959
David please post pics of that beauty! There are a lot of rotary valve fanatics on here!
I have quite a few V45s, have not been fortunate enough to find a VR as of yet.
Fantastic!September 23, 2019 at 8:56 pm #183958
Unfortunately I have a pile of powerheads with thrown rods from previous owners that heard from a neighbour down the street that they could be run on 50:1.
As we know, that is not the case.
The FDs were not as bad as the 5.5s and 7.5s. When these were run lean, rods went straight through the block!
As Frank stated, your problem is the small rod end bushing from lack of oil. Guaranteed. You can repair, just depends on what you want to spend on it.
Sometimes unfortunately we have to make them parts motors. Depends on how bad the play is.August 17, 2019 at 12:05 pm #181482
Well they wont sell to Canadians so I wouldn’t know.
Never had an issue with NYMarine paint though.August 11, 2019 at 4:45 pm #181133
So you are saying if you have the tank hooked up to the motor, and you prime the button it will not fill the carb bowl?
Or….it will not pressurize while running to keep fuel flow flowing?July 28, 2019 at 10:32 am #180395
If I had a dollar for every time a potential buyer from online sales asked me what the warranty period was……..July 27, 2019 at 10:52 am #180350
Replies viewable by members onlyJuly 27, 2019 at 10:47 am #180349
I am not smart enough either, however, the Engineers that the Aluminum Boat Builders are. I don’t think you will go wrong following suit.July 21, 2019 at 5:11 pm #179269
I am not sure about down in the US, but up here they are not common and command more than your average motor.July 21, 2019 at 11:57 am #179251
As you have found, the 105/FTLBS Flywheels can be challenging.
Upgrading your puller to the OEM one will help if you plan on continuing in the hobby. Trust me, saves a lot of frustration!
Shoulder bolts help a lot as well if you can find them. A good Fastener Supply House will carry them. I like 7/16″ of thread on mine.
For extra stubborn fly wheels, 2 people helps! Tighten that center bolt TIGHT! putting extensions on the bars will help. My wife has held a 6 foot long fence post once on my bar that hold the OEM puller plate in place, while I had a 6 foot extension bar on the wrench that was on the center bolt. That cracked it! I too had that one blocked up under the flywheel, so that the weight of the motor was pulling down on the flywheel, essentially prying up on the flywheel as Frank mentioned. IF you can get a third person to whack on the center bolt with a 16oz hammer, while one person holds the plate bar and another pulls on the wrench bar, it will pop. If not, I have no idea.