Forum Replies Created
August 17, 2019 at 12:05 pm #181482
Well they wont sell to Canadians so I wouldn’t know.
Never had an issue with NYMarine paint though.August 11, 2019 at 4:45 pm #181133
So you are saying if you have the tank hooked up to the motor, and you prime the button it will not fill the carb bowl?
Or….it will not pressurize while running to keep fuel flow flowing?July 28, 2019 at 10:32 am #180395
If I had a dollar for every time a potential buyer from online sales asked me what the warranty period was……..July 27, 2019 at 10:47 am #180349
I am not smart enough either, however, the Engineers that the Aluminum Boat Builders are. I don’t think you will go wrong following suit.July 21, 2019 at 5:11 pm #179269
I am not sure about down in the US, but up here they are not common and command more than your average motor.July 21, 2019 at 11:57 am #179251
As you have found, the 105/FTLBS Flywheels can be challenging.
Upgrading your puller to the OEM one will help if you plan on continuing in the hobby. Trust me, saves a lot of frustration!
Shoulder bolts help a lot as well if you can find them. A good Fastener Supply House will carry them. I like 7/16″ of thread on mine.
For extra stubborn fly wheels, 2 people helps! Tighten that center bolt TIGHT! putting extensions on the bars will help. My wife has held a 6 foot long fence post once on my bar that hold the OEM puller plate in place, while I had a 6 foot extension bar on the wrench that was on the center bolt. That cracked it! I too had that one blocked up under the flywheel, so that the weight of the motor was pulling down on the flywheel, essentially prying up on the flywheel as Frank mentioned. IF you can get a third person to whack on the center bolt with a 16oz hammer, while one person holds the plate bar and another pulls on the wrench bar, it will pop. If not, I have no idea.June 25, 2019 at 4:45 pm #177967
Your generally make drive it all the way in to your yellow mark, but as stated above, ensure it rests on a good spot on the shaft first.June 23, 2019 at 1:28 pm #177872
Wow that’s great!June 19, 2019 at 9:10 pm #177595
Kerry hit the nail on the head. I have a shed full of blown 5.5hp and 7.5hp powerheads from past owners that had no business running them. These NEED the volume of oil to seal properly.
Or run them at 50:1 and blow them. They can make more right?June 18, 2019 at 7:54 pm #177495
You leave the bypass cover on.
I like to fill the void with JB Weld, before installing a plate.May 24, 2019 at 6:52 pm #175928
As others have stated, NEVER open up a gearcase without re sealing it in its entirety! You will kick yourself later.
Do everything right once.May 11, 2019 at 5:02 pm #175081
You coat the bolts with OMC Gasket Sealing Compound prior to installing and torqueing.
Ensure that you use the proper torque sequence, in 3 stages.
First half torque, then 3/4, then the final torque setting.
Again, ensure that you start at the center bolt, and spiral outwards for each pass.April 5, 2019 at 5:01 pm #172691
You can get the kit Frank mentions, or simply dimple the brass bearing surface. I do a LIGHT tap with a punch every 90 degrees, 4 total. Just light, it really tightens it up!April 4, 2019 at 5:14 pm #172616
I agree with the solar charger, if you leave the boat out on the dock, keeps it fresh, as long as you don’t use it a ton!April 3, 2019 at 6:47 pm #172568
There are very often mud dauber nests in there. They can get VERY hard, and require drilling.
Good on you for taking care of it.
Guys that don’t, end up with cracked gearcases over the winter, when the water can not drain out, freezes, expands, and cracks the gearcase.
Critical to keep those clean.