Forum Replies Created
February 14, 2020 at 9:52 pm #194894
I have a shed full of 7.5hp blocks that were detonated by owners reading those stupid Oiling Recommendations from OMC in the 80s and running 50:1 in them.
I wish we could burn them all and be rid of it.February 14, 2020 at 9:44 pm #194886
Standard Seal Puller will make quick work of it. Just be careful prying against the casting, it can break easily.January 23, 2020 at 6:00 pm #192883
The nylon crush washers are meant for a one time use actually.
When you tighten them, the “crushing” is what provides the seal. They will not return to an uncrushed state. In an emergency by all means re use them. If this is for your annual gear oil change, I would not re use. These are not high end items.December 1, 2019 at 12:38 pm #188368
Lately I have been turning down the shaft to a slightly smaller OD (as long as the groove is not that deep).
I then have seals made with the same OD, but smaller ID, to fit this machined down surface.
Easier than building the ID back up to original spec. These “build ups” often fail, and are a lot of work as mentioned. Cheaper and easier to change the seal used.
Just my 2 cents.December 1, 2019 at 12:33 pm #188367
I believe that is the motor I was looking at buying as well. Congrats!
Alternating between HOT and COLD may free it up. Boil it in a crock pot, or oven, etc….then toss it out in the snow. Back and forth. I soak it in 5/:50 ATF and Acetone as mentioned before hand.
Im not sure where you are in Ontario, but the snow is coming!December 1, 2019 at 12:30 pm #188363
If you need the front door, they often bring more money than the rest of the motor!December 1, 2019 at 12:28 pm #188362
Try to find a bracket from a STANDARD 57 or 58 Johnson.November 17, 2019 at 7:57 pm #187378
The SKF seals are made of steel. Obviously not a good idea for a seal that is constantly submerged!November 3, 2019 at 6:09 pm #186404
No they would not have made wood factory stands. It will be home made then.
The model I pictured is a J Model 4hp.November 3, 2019 at 6:04 pm #186403
No it is in a groove on the shaft. Take the assembly apart from the inside, pull the shaft out, and you will see the o ring.
Very good ideal to change it while you have it that far.November 3, 2019 at 2:38 pm #186378
I guess depends on what really nice condition is.
If the chrome does not need re chroming could very well be worth that, especially with a nice factory stand!
I attached a pic of one I did last year. I started with very poor chrome and metal, so had to put a lot of hours into it! If I were to do another Ruddertwin, I would pay more for a better example to start with.
Attachments:September 30, 2019 at 7:04 pm #184345
Hope all is well.
I can help you with the parts you may need. As stated, I have substituted Harley Regulators that work out well. If you have the oversize box, and the generator, you may as well use it!September 23, 2019 at 9:01 pm #183963
I would seriously consider what Frank said. Very often that is the case.September 23, 2019 at 8:59 pm #183959
David please post pics of that beauty! There are a lot of rotary valve fanatics on here!
I have quite a few V45s, have not been fortunate enough to find a VR as of yet.
Fantastic!September 23, 2019 at 8:56 pm #183958
Unfortunately I have a pile of powerheads with thrown rods from previous owners that heard from a neighbour down the street that they could be run on 50:1.
As we know, that is not the case.
The FDs were not as bad as the 5.5s and 7.5s. When these were run lean, rods went straight through the block!
As Frank stated, your problem is the small rod end bushing from lack of oil. Guaranteed. You can repair, just depends on what you want to spend on it.
Sometimes unfortunately we have to make them parts motors. Depends on how bad the play is.