Forum Replies Created
September 18, 2019 at 10:45 am #183589
Are you sure the replacement prop isn’t bent to? A bent blade which causes vibration like you describe can be hard or impossible to see visually. A bent propeller shaft should be obvious while turning it with or without the prop on.September 18, 2019 at 10:38 am #183588
I use rubberised cork material with good results. Not pure cork.
If you work on any larger two or three cylinder motors, the air box cover gasket will come stamped out of a sheet of the correct material and the extra material is perfect for these six horse seals.September 11, 2019 at 10:37 am #183066
The Direct Voltage Adapter is used in conjunction with a multimeter for testing CD (Capacitor Discharge) ignition components, not points style magnetos as found in older motors. Specific values for stator and charge coil output are given in shop manuals along with values for testing ignition and trigger coils etc at both static and cranking/idling speeds. Testing CD ignition components individually helps to narrow down which component is at fault and eliminates the guesswork. I can already see the DVA coming in handy on the Merc/Mariner CD ignitions with the troublesome switch boxes.September 11, 2019 at 1:33 am #183043
I recently purchased this DVA adapter to use with one of my multimeters and I believe it max’s out at 400 volts which is enough for any CD ignition components I ever work on. I still haven’t used it so I can’t really say much about it except it was a cheaper way to go instead of buying a peak reading voltmeter.September 6, 2019 at 11:10 am #182762
Does anybody have a cost-effective source for the “sparky” plug boots?
These guys or Brillman might be worth a try:
Just to add my $0.02, lots of the motors I work on have seen salt water use so corrosion under the boot is a common problem. This area always gets attention as any corrosion here can cause a poor running motor after everything else has been serviced.September 5, 2019 at 11:57 pm #182729
I don’t have the ’56 CD parts book but I do have the ’57 CD-14 parts book. The two motors are almost identical so it should work for him.
If you really want a ’56 version, I do believe I have the ’56 Evinrude Fisherman parts book. It’s the same motor as the Johnson CD-13 except for the hood.September 5, 2019 at 11:23 am #182684
You don’t have to trim the spring. Just slide the copper continuity connector on from the top. Works perfectly!
As for the spring tension, what did you compare it to? Another new set or a used set? Quite often when reusing a set of points, I’ve pulled the spring back to increase the pressure as the springs seem to relax over time.September 1, 2019 at 11:39 pm #182448
Wouldn’t the reed plate prevent the rag from getting into the crankcase?
Don’t feel bad as I always stick a paper towel up the exhaust when storing a powerhead. On one motor after a rebuild, I noticed the water wasn’t coming out the exhaust relief very well. After a little while it cleared itself out but then I noticed all this shredded paper towel in the test drum water. Yup, forgot to remove the paper towel and now it had to come all apart again to make sure the water passages were clear.September 1, 2019 at 12:28 am #182382
I asked this same question a few years ago and what the general opinion was that they had to use some type of masking tool on the line. The hoods were first sprayed one color and then masked somehow for the accent colors. I sure wish I had at home whatever they used as it’s a lot of work and time masking for three colors.August 31, 2019 at 11:10 am #182352
5.5 and 6 horse rings thru ’79 will wok in the TD/TN motors.August 29, 2019 at 11:12 am #182263
Thank you Mumbles thats what i was looking for
the hood i got has the wing bolts but has white paint on the sides instead of the dull aluminium paint i wonder if the end of 54 they changed to the white
Definitely ’55 style paint with the Cream trim so it could possibly be an early ’55 if it has the ’54 wingnuts. I’ve seen that before on the 5 1/2 horse motors so they were probably using leftover parts from the ’54 models.On the other hand, it could be a real late ’54 using the ’55 paint scheme. What’s the serial number on it?August 29, 2019 at 12:49 am #182246
What you might have is a case for a ’39 – ’47 Sportwin as the model numbers for those years started with 43. As for the serial number, I have no information on them.
The original motor would have looked similar to the one in this photo Garry had posted earlier.August 29, 2019 at 12:31 am #182243
You should be using grade eight 1/4 X 20 bolts with the puller. The screws you’re using look like cheapo screws from Home Depot and they will stretch or snap off (usually in the flywheel) if over stressed. Once you get the motor running, use 16:1 fuel mix in it. Any TCW III two-stroke oil will work fine.