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  • #285854
    seakaye12
    Participant

      US Member

      Yes it is bailomatic according to a 1976 NAPA catalogue it uses two of the 18-3019  (Sierra) .  Probably long ago discontinued but it might help you reference equivalents.

      McCulloch PN  75250

      The following threads pertain to a substitute Honda impeller.  Not sure if this will fit your motor but it might be worth looking to what these members had to say.

      https://www.aomci.org/forums/search/19210/

      #278171
      Tom
      Participant

        US Member

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        1 user thanked author for this post.
        #277274

        Hello, I’ve recently purchased a 59 Scott Atwater 7.5. Didn’t take very long to get it running although I noticed right away it was not cooling… I ordered 1 19210-zw9-013 Honda Six fin impeller and replaced only the lower cooling impeller as well as the 3 O Rings for the pump housing and still nothing. Do I need to replace the bailer impeller as well? I seen somewhere someone had mentioned the bailer impeller kind of acts as a seal for the lower cooling impeller? Am I missing something here ?? Cooper pickup tube is clear and seated correctly into lower pump housing also. Also it came with about a 3 inch binder service manual although the 4 or 5 pages on the water pump have been torn out ! Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.

        #265050
        Buccaneer
        Participant

          US Member

          Here’s some notes from others, I had saved in my files———
          —————–
          I would like to know where to get impellers also for a 7.5hp bailamatic.
          I have used a honda impeller part number 19210-ZW9-013 I had to shim the
          housing with 1/16 inch stainless and also shim the impeller to the shaft.
          I am getting ready to fix a Firestone that was made by Scott I believe and
          it would be nice to purchase the impellers if someone knows where to get them?
          I only shimmed the top impeller using a honda impeller on the engine I re-did
          since the lower one runs the bailamatic I didn’t re-do it. You can see it
          run here. I did send an email to flying scott but didn’t get a response.
          Thanks for the help.

          Joe
          =========
          Re: Scott 10 hp where is water pump
          Postby Mumbles » Tue Jul 05, 2016 9:34 pm

          cannuck wrote:
          Is it necessary to replace both .

          Not unless you want to use the bailer option.
          I think some guys have tried it by removing the one
          impeller but for this ’56 7.5, I made up an aluminum
          hockey puck to fill the bailer impeller cavity and plugged
          all of the unnecessary holes. Now it runs cool and pumps
          like a fire truck.
          =================
          I ran across this inexpensive, readily available Honda impeller
          that is supposed to fit the Scott Atwater Bail-A-Matic 7.5hp.
          Just passing along the info. Curious to find out if it works:

          Honda 4-stroke 8hp 9.9hp BF8D BF9.9D
          19210-ZW9-013
          Number of Blades: 6
          Plastic Hub
          Height: 14.77mm
          External Impeller Overall Diameter: 45.04mm
          Internal Shaft Insert Diameter: 13.35mm
          ==============
          Ron Hawkins used Honda 19210-zw0003 impeller
          Ron Hawkins I just removed the original liner
          and the modified the inlet and outlet holes on
          the 9.9 Honda liner and epoxied it into the S/A housing.
          ===============
          Ron Prochaska
          Author
          Tony C Zamp only problem I’ve had so far on the 5th dry
          start the factory drive pin is too small. It slipped.
          I used a 6/32 stainless bolt and enlarged the slot on the
          impeller. Had 3 more dry starts no issues I’m torturing
          this to see how well it will handle the housing being up
          so high. So far this is better than old nos impellers I’ve
          tried in the past. I have not wet them before starting once.
          I’m sure if you wet before starting you will have no problems
          ever. As if now I’m ready to put it on my boat
          =================
          Jason Pickerell
          I don’t understand how that impeller works by itself, but it
          seems to, and many people have said that they did the swap.
          When I mocked it up in the housing on my engine, the height
          was great, but when I lined up the center bore of the impeller
          with the center of the hole through the housing, the blade tips
          didn’t quite touch the vacuum side of the housing. Maybe it’s
          working good enough as a slosh pump on that side IDK.
          I wound up epoxying the liner from the Honda inside the Scott
          Atwater housing and die grinding holes in it. Once assembled,
          and run, the tell tale stream was like a water jet!
          =========
          Ron Prochaska been there done that honda thing.. Works great
          if you can add .064 to the ID of the housing and polish the
          bottom..you remove the incert then turn a aluminum ring to
          id .064 od to fit the housing… Bingo the small honda will do
          it but it took me one whole winter to convert the damn thing
          way back when
          ==================

          Prepare to be boarded!

          • This reply was modified 2 years, 3 months ago by Buccaneer.
          #250594
          Buccaneer
          Participant

            US Member

            According to my notes, I ended up using Honda impellers in the two 7.5 hp bail-a-matics
            I worked on. I blanked the bailer pump, and just used one impeller in each motor.
            I tried other impellers as well that some people said worked, but not for me.
            The part number I show was…….. 19210-ZW9-013

            Some people epoxied a Honda liner into the Scott pump housing, but I was not
            able to find where anyone sold “just” the liner, so I added brass sheet
            on the walls of the original liner to reduce it’s diameter, so the Honda impeller would pump
            nicely.

            My notes……
            Installed a .035 brass liner inside of the
            current water pump liner to use the Honda impeller,
            and made a new brass cover plate on pump.
            Pump cavity ID was originally 1.685, depth .600
            Pump cavity ID with brass insert is 1.632,
            .053 smaller than original.
            Honda impeller specs – OD 1.785 x .585

            Prepare to be boarded!

            • This reply was modified 2 years, 12 months ago by Buccaneer.
            #235540
            wbeaton
            Participant

              Canada Member

              Update…water pump mod works great. Again, the part number is as follows.

              Honda BF8D part #19210-ZW9-013

              70F72F66-E670-407B-8D5A-F4D1446238D6

              0EFCF178-1248-4887-81D2-AF4816CC2165

              Wayne
              Upper Canada Chapter

              uccaomci.com

              #234864
              wbeaton
              Participant

                Canada Member

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                Wayne
                Upper Canada Chapter

                uccaomci.com

                #234858
                wbeaton
                Participant

                  Canada Member

                  So after some experimenting with impellers I have found what I think is an affordable solution that should be available for awhile. The impeller fits perfectly with the exception of the ID. The Oliver driveshaft is only 9/16”, which makes it the same as the KE7 not the KG7 as I originally reported. The hub material is hard plastic and is easy to file or machine to the correct diameter. I will likely switch the impeller key to an OMC style instead of the original pin style.

                  Honda BF8D part #19210-ZW9-013

                  742BFD11-5DF6-4DD6-B9D2-520DD841C305

                  36D5CD31-8DE7-45E6-867D-D66681DBF394

                  0B3735F2-3FD7-4A39-B25A-C8DFD2B3D7CD

                  For those of you interested in the details of this saga, I first attempted to find another useable impeller from the parts bin. I found that the Martin 100 impeller fits the driveshaft and housing perfectly, but would need some modification to the driveshaft as the key is different. This was never really a viable future solution since I can’t go to the Martin dealer down the street whenever I need another. The same can be said for the Mercury KE4/KE7/Mk7 impeller. The Scott-Atwater 7.5-10 hp impeller fit except for the ID. Knowing that the Honda impeller is a suitable replacement for the SA I chose to pursue it. It is not a perfect solution, but at $32 CAD it is more affordable than the specialty store options that run $50-70 USD plus shipping.

                  A922CB5B-22E8-423D-A358-2451E24E130D

                  Wayne
                  Upper Canada Chapter

                  uccaomci.com

                  #228993
                  Buccaneer
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Replies viewable by members only

                    Prepare to be boarded!

                    #228586
                    Buccaneer
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      It’s been a learning experience about outboard water pumps.
                      I’ve seen pump liners in worse shape than the one on this
                      Scott, and work just fine, but then again, the pumps were
                      a lot closer to the water level, or actually below, where
                      they should be!
                      Therefore, I’ve concluded that if you want your Scott Bailer
                      to pump water, the pump liner better be in good shape!

                      I also concluded if you’re using Honda impeller
                      19210-ZW9-013 19210-ZW9-003 18-3100 for Honda 4-Stroke Outboard Motors
                      You’ll also need to reduce the inside pump cavity diameter by at least
                      .070 for the impeller to work.

                      I made a new top plate for the water pump housing out of brass plate.
                      Took a while with a hacksaw, belt sand, files, and various bits
                      in the Dremel. Then lapped the plate nice and smooth and level
                      on the pump side.

                      The pump will now take suction at normal operating level above the
                      water, around a foot up, with the drill operating mid range in speed.
                      Also note that the pump no longer blows water out around the top cover where
                      the driveshaft goes through.
                      It could possibly even pump better if my new O-rings for the pump housing
                      ever show up. Guess I’ll work on Scott bailer #2 while I await the O-rings.

                      No guess on the longevity of the brass in the pump vs. the original
                      stainless steel.

                      https://youtu.be/_SgJUXiM5js

                      Prepare to be boarded!

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