Search Results for 'atom modules'

[bob-d]

Red Boat, a super simple test for spark in the entire circuit is just take the plug out of the motor, insert back into connector, and ground on the powerhead. I use small flat  round magnet from Home Depot to hold the plug against the powerhead. Gives a good connection,  and is a super easy method. Make sure the lower unit is in a barrel / lake crank the motor, and check for spark.
You can change plugs very easily with this  testing configuration to see if they are the problem. I hate to say I have never had good luck with Atom modules, but as they say …. individual result may vary. Don’t be afraid to swap coils, or go back to good old points and condensers. Check your boot connector on the top of the plug as well. I had a brand new coil from CDI once that was a dud. Electronics in todays boating world can be dicey. Not the same quality as before. Good luck, you will figure it out.
Bob D

[The red boat]

I haven’t had a chance to run my 55 crestliner boat since last summer. It ran great last year and has been in dry storage. It has the 1955 evinrude 25hp outboard.

I took it out today and my bottom plug is getting fouled and it’s only running on 1 cylinder.
it starts and idles and operates at low speeds perfectly.

it has new plugs and wires and atom ignition modules. I’ve rebuilt the entire ignition system a couple of years ago.
like I said – it ran great the last time it was out.

what should I look for first?

[dave-bernard]

I have 2 red atom modules for magneto.

[Tom Bertulli]

Hi Fleetwin,
I have cleaned the high speed jet to within an inch of it’s life. I think the fuel side of this equation is OK> the problem is ignition spark. The engine will not start due to the no spark at low RPM issue caused by the NOVA 2 chips I installed to correct the issue of mag plate bearing wear and points not holding their setting. Pull the starter cord – no spark, but rotate the flywheel with a drill and there is lots of hot spark. What I am looking for is a brand of electronic ignition module similar to but better than the NOVA 2’s. Red Atom modules would be great but are impossible to find. If anybody out there has experience with better types of ignition modules I’d like to hear about them.
Thanks

[Mumbles]

The Atom/Nova II modules will replace the points and condensers, but not the coil. Newer small engines such as Briggs and Strattons have the module built into the coil but most of these coil/modules are designed to go on the outside of the flywheel. The laminations are arced the wrong way. Finding one to fit the inside of a flywheel is the problem. A coil from a Briggs opposed twin might be able to be adapted to an outboard coils lams but I don’t know. Size and magnet polarity might be a factor in making it work though.

Studying photos of small engine magnetos on Ebay might yield some results. I know there’s lots of cheap ones there from across the pond and they are meant for small engines powering scooters and mini bikes etc.

1 user thanked author for this post.

NeptuneMadness

[mr-asa]

Well shoot. Something is wrong and I can’t fix it right now.

Did a tune up, hooked up some Atom modules I have had on the shelf for a long while. Ran rough still. That’s fine, bottom cylinder is cold and nothing changes when I pull the plug wire, I pulled the flywheel and swap the polarity of the wires on the module as you sometimes have to do.
Start it up, again and it runs even worse. Pulling the plug on the bottom cylinder again does nothing.

Time for a compression test or something, I guess. Dadgummit.

[joesnuffy]

Sorry for not getting back with you sooner. I have been putting in a boat lift and wiring it. I hope this is not a duplicate post I posted earlier and it disappeared.

I normally mount the modules down lower where points and condensers were. I normally have to bend the metal tang for the wire up to get them to fit. But if your flywheel clears them they probably should be o.k. up high.

I noticed in your pics you have replacement coils. The small green and small black wire might have to be reversed to get spark if they are positive grounding coils. Meaning you would put the small green wire to ground and small black wire to the module. If memory serves me correctly you can spin the flywheel using rope clockwise like normal if no spark spin it backwards with rope if spark green and black wire must be reversed to fire clockwise.

The flywheel has to be spun quicker to get spark with modules I use a rope. The spark plug gap I believe is like 5 thousandths less than normal for red atoms but they will fire at normal gap.

Hope you got it going.

Joe

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1 user thanked author for this post.

bwanadon

[joesnuffy]

I just saw your post sorry for not getting back sooner I have been installing a boat lift and wiring it.

I mount them in the area where the points/condenser use to be not up high like you have them but if flywheel clears them I guess its o.k.. You might have to drill out the circle a bit on the kaw module to get screw through but it looks like you got the screw through. You will also need to bend the metal tang up for the wire if mounting down low.

On the red atom instructions it said to shorten the gap I can’t remember how much but it was like 5 thousandths smaller than normal gap.

I hope you did get them to work. Sometimes you have to swap the coil wires around meaning put the small ground wire of coil to module and the normal small wire that goes to points to ground if it happens to be a positive grounded engine. Looking at your pictures that would be swapping the small green wire and small black wire around. Meaning you would be putting small green wire to ground and small black wire to module. Normally evinrudes and johnsons with original coils you don’t but your coils look like replacements.

If memory serves me correctly I think you can spin the flywheel backwards and if it sparks then you know wires have to be reversed. The flywheel does have to spin quicker to get spark with modules than with points I normally use a rope to test.

Hope you got it going,
Joe

• This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by joesnuffy.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by joesnuffy.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by joesnuffy.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by joesnuffy.
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[bob-d]

Hi all, I’m going to use Atom modules on my 59 10HP Evinrude . The instructions don’t show where to hook up the two wires coming from the stop button that normally attach to the points.
Would I be correct to assume that they now would be hooked to the darker primary wire in the picture below?
Thanks,
Bob D

[Mumbles]

I have a bunch of the Sierra modules on hand along with Atoms and the Sierra ones in the blue and white boxes are marked ‘Magnatune Made In W. Germany’ while the ones in the older red and white Sierra packaging are marked ‘ Atom Computer Ignition Sydney Australia’. The instruction sheets included with both modules are identical to the Atom instruction sheets except for having Sierra printed on them. They all have to be one and the same. The only difference I can see between the Sierras and the original Atoms is the packaging. Sierra P/N 18-5100 is for one module while P/N 19-5101 is for two modules.