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I searched SD Johnson 16 hp and found a few You Tube videos. New to me. Interesting motor. I have 2 suggestions as to motors you might consider. First is the 1949-50 Mercury KF-7 Lighting. This Super 10 is actually closer to 15 hp. They are plentiful and not expensive. They can be some what of a challenge to work on as you have to devise substitutes for the special tools that were made for these motors but we have solutions for many of them. If you have the old impeller there is a member who can make you a replacement using the center from the old one. Used parts are obtainable, as well as some new, like gaskets, from several dealers. While these motor had 120 lbs or more compression when new, most have been well used. However the compression is 90 lbs. in this example I just uploaded a video of yesterday. After the repair part it shows the motor running. https://youtu.be/3aEQ773QzuM The second motor I would suggest is the 1928 or 1929 Elto Speedster. Even though you spin the flywheel (in the opposite direction you want it to run) to start them, these aren’t considered a “Row Boat” motor by some as they are not brass. Although rated at 7hp. its closer to 11 or 12. They have a very interesting ignition that will need some repair, and the coil will need to be rebuilt as the wires will be rotten if you find an example that has been resting for decades. The gas tank is the biggest issue with these because of the vibration. Look for cracks around the mounts. If they will let you, pour in some alcohol and check for leaks. I’d show you how to get the alcohol back out but too many links and everything here can disappear. They will all have dents. They don’t use an impeller but there are no seals in the gear case so it need some regular attention if your running them a lot. Your son may not want this much of a challenge but all the issues were over come. https://youtu.be/lJ6cXeWWi7g
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
Topic: Elto identification
An Elto twin just followed me home. Sigh. I know nothing about Elto’s. Tag on the tank indicates “Super Elto” it’s a twin. beyond that and a serial number, I’m at a loss. HELP! Serial number is 3180002. I’d love to find a year, model, parts, diagrams, anything to help with my next shop art project.
I think you will find the toggle switch controls the power to the ignition system. Thats how it should be at any rate.
You’re correct about the timing tho, the starting mechanism does retard it to start then allows it to advance once the starter lever is released. I haven’t worked on my electric Jr Quad very much so I got discombooberated there a bit, my bad. But what I was driving at previously is that once the motor is running, its not a lever to control the speed, thats what I was trying to get across.
At least with the top covers and shrouds removed, you can see the original round armature housing which is what you see on the outboards before Evinrude-Elto went to the “verandah” style starter housing, as Sam Vance referred to it. I’ve never had an Owen-Dyneto equipped motor that had a switch that set a “high” or “low” rate of charging. Charging was either on or it wasn’t, as it was always understood that it was an automatic cutout point that the electrical system controlled relative to engine RPM. At speeds above (approximately) 1000-1200 RPM, the charging system kicked in and was governed thereafter by the regulator circuit. My Super C electrics have a three position switch; One is RUN, the middle one is “CHARGE” and the third is “START”. They were also equipped with a key switch for turning the battery juice on and off. The switch on the later model electrics was a lil different, as you’ve found out.
Hope this helps.
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
Yes your timer bushing needs replaced. The crack in the timer case should be repaired to keep it from growing. This early aluminum can be hard to weld. I used the aluminum brazing rod to repair one of mine. The stuff is a challenge to use (for me) but I’m getting better at it. I’m going to give you titles of some of my You Tube videos on how the timer works and rebuilding your coil. I can’t post links because too many will make this reply disappear. Search – Super Elto Timer – Adjustments – Function – Explanation. Search – Super Elto Timer – Its Working!!! – Search-Restoring Elto Ignition Coil – Quick Step Buy Step Repair Slide Show. This last video appeared after I posted mine. While he does use a different coil he basically copied what I spent several years to discover. It still may be of some value to you so search- Restoring ELTO Ignition Coils; Ruddertwin, Lightwin, Speedster, Quad, Service Twin, Super C.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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When starting any cold motor, normally a richer mixture is required. As it warms up the amount of fuel will need to be reduced to where the motor runs best. The only adjustment you mention is going richer, after the motor stopped running. A symptom of a Super Elto being flooded is the flywheel only bouncing back and forth, when trying to start one. When I am having a problem getting any motor started, I will close the mixture screw all the way and pull the motor over till it starts and cleans itself out. If after a dozen try’s, it doesn’t start, I assume it’s not getting enough fuel and open the mixture screw more. If its still not responding, I’ll take out the plugs to see if they are wet. If they are, I’ll spin the motor over 6 or 8 times, put the plugs back in, and with the mixture screw closed, start the motor, and let it clean itself out. If the plugs are dry, I’ll squirt in some fuel and try to get a motor to start. This is my approach to finding the correct fuel mixture for starting or running, although not always in this order. If there is no indication that a motor is trying to start, I would suspect there is some other issue. I doubt anyone has done a fuel to air ratio caparison on any of the pre WW-II motors, so how would one know that Super Eltos require a “richer” fuel to air ratio compared to any other motor?
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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That battery will be acceptable for any Super Elto and I suspect any pre. WW-II motor with a battery ignition, but it is just one of many options.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
The Square Tank, Flat Rudder, Elto’s seem to bring more than the later models, but my guess is it’s no more than $50.00 to $100.00. Originally the timer had a socket for the wiring to plug into. It often gets deleted and that has a major effect on the premium this model can bring. I have only had 1 Ruddertwin. Was a really nice motor but I never ran it as I’m more into the Speedsters and Folding Lightweights. As you have 2 you probably have a better sense of value than I do. However if it was one of the Super Eltos that I am interested in, I wouldn’t pay more than $250.00 for a good example. That’s just me. As you by more motors you’ll have a better sense of value “to you” of the motors you’re interested in. One thing I have learned is, I find it easier to except that I paid too much, than realizing I letting something I wanted, slip through my fingers, because I thought they were asking too much at the time.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
