Search Results for 'elto super c'

[Tubs]

That battery will be acceptable for any Super Elto and I suspect any pre. WW-II motor with a battery ignition, but it is just one of many options.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Waunaboat

[Tubs]

The Square Tank, Flat Rudder, Elto’s seem to bring more than the later models, but my guess is it’s no more than $50.00 to $100.00. Originally the timer had a socket for the wiring to plug into. It often gets deleted and that has a major effect on the premium this model can bring. I have only had 1 Ruddertwin. Was a really nice motor but I never ran it as I’m more into the Speedsters and Folding Lightweights. As you have 2 you probably have a better sense of value than I do. However if it was one of the Super Eltos that I am interested in, I wouldn’t pay more than $250.00 for a good example. That’s just me. As you by more motors you’ll have a better sense of value “to you” of the motors you’re interested in. One thing I have learned is, I find it easier to except that I paid too much, than realizing I letting something I wanted, slip through my fingers, because I thought they were asking too much at the time.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Waunaboat

[joecb]

Tubs, you did it again, you get the cigar. Thank you.  My 1927 Super ELTO model J, will take the nose plug like the first two photos. The plug that you show , is that factory or did you make it? I’ll be heading to the lathe tomorrow.

Thank you for the help.

Joe B

 

[joecb]

Hello all,  my newly acquired 1927 Super ELTO model “J” is in need of a proper carb needle knob. Anyone have a good photo of the carburetor/ mixer needle valve knob/ handle? .. so I’ll know what I’m hunting for.

Thanks …

Joe B

[beezer]

Thanks for the info. Been playing with it today I watched the video on youtube on the Elto Super A outboard and the timer is the same. I had been trying to set a gap on the points but it turns out that I needed to set the timer a little to the left of the center then set the pistons a little after top dead center and then adjust the points to where they just start to open thats when they fire. When doing that the motor fire right up. With the timer set at seven o’clock it idled great then moving the timer to the right the motor speeds right up. I guess you don’t need to worry about a certian gap thickness. When the timer is all the way to the left, 9 o’clock the points have a 50 thousands gap.  Thanks again

[lyks2tinkr]

I sounds like it’s similar to a 1932 Elto Super A where the “timer” is on an excentric.

On the super A if the timer is all the way left looking at the motor than the points will not close to protect the coil.

[Tubs]

For the most part, the older the motors, the
simpler they become. If the opportunity comes-
relatively complete -reasonable priced, step in.
Learning what to look for as far as worn or
damaged parts can be costly. Most are fairly
easy to work on although the position of the
coil and how its mounted is a pain on these.
Once you get a Super Elto dialed in, they start
easily, are very reliable, and fun to run.
Tubs

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

1 user thanked author for this post.

John Gragg

[Tubs]

Here is a link- https://www.aomci.org/forums/topic/1929-super-elto-lightweight-folder/
Tubs
.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Buccaneer]

The Elto Super A Rudder Twin is back in “Time Out”.

For kicks today, I bypassed the normal coil, and hooked
it up to my Model T Ford buzz coil, using the motor’s
points for the buzz coil’s “timer” connection.

It didn’t take long to realize my buzz coil setup only
has “one” secondary outlet (plug wire), but
I tried it anyway, by running a jumper between spark plugs.
No idea if both plugs actually fired, but I did get the motor
to fire a few hits, but not as good as the previous day with
the normal ignition setup.

Model T Fords probably had a separate buzz coil for each
cylinder, for a good reason.
I’m guessing if the compression was a little higher on the port
cylinder, it might run, but for now, time to play with something
different!

Prepare to be boarded!

[Buccaneer]

This outboard made it’s debut here three years ago.
It was the “Frankenstein” motor, with the subject
powerhead mounted atop of a Elto Lightwin Model G or J
ruddertwin lower unit.

I had purchased it an auction, and it appeared to have been a very
old creation, as the coil wires were deteriorated bad.

The motor was put in “time out” as I either, could not get it started,
or only started with a drill motor. I only have video evidence that
I had it firing while roping it over.

I decided to give it another go. In going over the ignition yesterday,
I was going crazy when trying to set the points, until I found some
old information that when the timer lever is placed over the Starboard
cylinder, the points stay “Open”, acting as an Off switch, and preventing
drain on the battery.
The coil guts were replaced with a Bendix Scintilla, double secondary coil,
new plug wires, etc. There’s a new capacitor mounted in the original condenser
can on the side of the timer.

Does anyone have any factory information on setting the points, parts manual,
or other literature on these motors?

The timer lever was missing when I got the motor, as was the tiller handle, but the later
is not needed being it has a rudder steer lower unit.

While charging up my game cam 6v batteries to try to test the ignition,
I turned my temporary timer handle (from three years ago) into
a more realistic looking Elto handle.
Thanks.

Prepare to be boarded!