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Topic: 1928 Elto Quad
This is a 1928 standard Elto Quad that I’ve had for about 12 years. It came out of the Fishers Landing NY area. When I brought it home I looked it over and cleaned it up a little and put the coils aside for rebuilding later. Didn’t think at the time that it would take me 12 years to get around to doing that, but s*** happens eh.
These pictures represent the motor as found
This one is after I gave it a bath with Castrol Super Clean
Then I put the coils and rotten wiring away
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
OOOOOOHHHHHHH!!!! I get it now! You’re only supposed to bump compression to the left, but the engine will fire while the piston is past TDC and start running CLOCKWISE.
“It is never necessary to crank motor over compression”
Makes sense now. THANKS A LOT!! That was very helpful!!!
–Rob
You’re close. You want the plugs to fire exactly when you let go of the knob. You let go of the knob where you get the best bounce. When the motor starts it will be running with the spark happening at past TDC. But the spark happens before TDC on your starting swing, the plugs fire, the flywheel change the direction your spinning it, and the motor keeps running forward. Try this. Turn the flywheel clockwise till it stops as compression begins. Now slowly bring it back counterclockwise, listen for a snap. That’s is the points making contact to fire the plugs. You want that “snap” to happen just when you’re letting go of the knob. If you go back to the video of me starting mine, I may have had the timer too far to the left, and the points weren’t “snapping” and I wasn’t getting spark. When I moved the timer slightly to the right it took right off.
There is no air control on the early motors. If they had carburetor it would be wide open all the time. The speed is controlled solely by the timing. Slow – the points fire past TDC. As you advance the timing to TDC, and beyond, the motor runs faster. Once you go past the point where its increasing in speed, bring the timer back a tad. That’s full speed. Any more and your over advanced.
Edit – I was think other Super Eltos. Because of the gas tank you cant over advance a Ruddertwin.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
1 user thanked author for this post.
I posted this in the current projects forum too, but thought I’d put it here as well so non-members can see it and maybe get further infected by the bug for old iron.
I did most of this work awhile ago but was doing more research on the topic and I don’t think many have seen a video of it being started, so here it is…
1931 Elto Super C. The model number is 613, serial number is 0002. The 613 model designates it as an Inertia start motor, as were about 31 other motors that Evinrude-Elto built in 1931-32. Anyway, this is the only known example of a survivor Eclipse Aviation built Inertia starter that was originally installed at the factory. (There is one other starter in existance, but it got transplanted or retrofitted onto a 1930 outboard).
Its a joy to start it. Sort of. Noisy as heck, and the starter grinds on forever after the motor starts until all the built-up inertia in the rotating assembly is finally spent. Motor sounds good tho. Anyway, enjoy the racket.
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
I did most of this work awhile ago but was doing more research on the topic and I don’t think many have seen a video of it being started, so here it is…
1931 Elto Super C. The model number is 613, serial number is 0002. The 613 model designates it as an Inertia start motor, as were about 31 other motors that Evinrude-Elto built in 1931-32. Anyway, this is the only known example of a survivor Eclipse Aviation built Inertia starter that was originally installed at the factory. (There is one other starter in existance, but it got transplanted or retrofitted onto a 1930 outboard).
Its a joy to start it. Sort of. Noisy as heck, and the starter grinds on forever after the motor starts until all the built-up inertia in the rotating assembly is finally spent. Motor sounds good tho. Anyway, enjoy the racket.
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
Topic: 1925 Super Elto
Just picked this up at a meet…
1925 Super Elto “J” Model. Tank is in very nice condition, other than obvious rust. I will blast all of that off once it warms up a bit.
Wondering a good starting point for this one. The gear case was kind of a mess, and I thought it was completely thrashed. I took the prop off to find it was only the prop shaft seal that had gone bad.
I would like to restore/polish this one back to looking cherry, and any advice would be great.
I have ordered a military coil and I have some OMC standard condensers, so I will be rebuilding the coil. I presume it is bad, have not tested it yet however.
Does anyone have any advice on the prop shaft seal? Not sure where I am going to find one.
The timer is also very damaged, when I pulled the flywheel the timer ring was broken, and so was the casting where the rotating mechanism is held.
This is the damaged timer, but the points seem to click when I manually spin the rotor
^^ Damaged prop shaft seal
Front view of the motor. Seems to be in nice shape for being 100 years old.
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1949 Mercury KE-4
1952 Mercury KF-3,-5,-7
1952 Mercury KG-7Q1937 Evinrude Scout
1938 Elto Pal
1946 Evinrude Ranger
Great looking restoration Tubs. the polished aluminum goes well with the painted parts. I believe that the tank was the only thing that was really painted but I will have to go outside to look at my motor to determine that, as the color could be either a dull aluminum paint job or just dull aluminum itself. My ruddertwin is in my profile picture but if anybody wants I can send them some more photos via email.
This turned out to be a nice example once I got it cleaned up. There were very few nicks, or scratches, in any of the aluminum parts. I just went over them a couple times with some metal polish and a rag. I can only wonder what the flywheel and gas tank looked like before it went under that tarp. The only thing I had to fix, except for the coil, was the gas cap. The ball inside had become so rusty it was pushing the vent valve shut. While I’m a big Super Elto fan, I’m not of this model. It was great fun making presentable, learning about it, and getting running again, but after I displayed it some, it went into the hands of someone who plans to use it.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
The 401 was a descendent of the battery-ignition folding Lightweight that first was sold in 1929 and was also available in 1930 as the model 309. In 1931 they discontinued the folding leg and called it a “Special Lightweight” and assigned it model number 360. This motor used the same powerhead as the folding Lightweight, but was only in production for a very short time and was quickly superceded by the model 401 Lightweight with an updated powerhead and smaller ignition coil with the “Special” part of the name dropped.
The model 401 was built using two different ignition systems, and both of them were battery powered. The Atwater-Kent timer that used the typical Elto “dogbone” timer strap was only used on the first 1999 Lightweights built. After that, they switched over to what I refer to as the “Evinrude-Elto” timer that was used for many years in the 1930’s. This timer uses more conventional points that are actuated off the flywheel hub instead of a timer strap. The starting instructions are different, depending which ignition system was on the motor. I’ve attached scans of the operator booklet to illustrate this.
Hope this helps.
Best,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
1 user thanked author for this post.
I searched SD Johnson 16 hp and found a few You Tube videos. New to me. Interesting motor. I have 2 suggestions as to motors you might consider. First is the 1949-50 Mercury KF-7 Lighting. This Super 10 is actually closer to 15 hp. They are plentiful and not expensive. They can be some what of a challenge to work on as you have to devise substitutes for the special tools that were made for these motors but we have solutions for many of them. If you have the old impeller there is a member who can make you a replacement using the center from the old one. Used parts are obtainable, as well as some new, like gaskets, from several dealers. While these motor had 120 lbs or more compression when new, most have been well used. However the compression is 90 lbs. in this example I just uploaded a video of yesterday. After the repair part it shows the motor running. https://youtu.be/3aEQ773QzuM The second motor I would suggest is the 1928 or 1929 Elto Speedster. Even though you spin the flywheel (in the opposite direction you want it to run) to start them, these aren’t considered a “Row Boat” motor by some as they are not brass. Although rated at 7hp. its closer to 11 or 12. They have a very interesting ignition that will need some repair, and the coil will need to be rebuilt as the wires will be rotten if you find an example that has been resting for decades. The gas tank is the biggest issue with these because of the vibration. Look for cracks around the mounts. If they will let you, pour in some alcohol and check for leaks. I’d show you how to get the alcohol back out but too many links and everything here can disappear. They will all have dents. They don’t use an impeller but there are no seals in the gear case so it need some regular attention if your running them a lot. Your son may not want this much of a challenge but all the issues were over come. https://youtu.be/lJ6cXeWWi7g
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
