Here’s a link:
https://www.aomci.org/forums/search/tecumseh+pdf/
There are a few pdf manuals linked in that search. See if that works for you
1 user thanked author for this post.
Gary,
There is a Gamefisher Model Number but then there is also an engine model number. That model number should be visible on the powerhead. The carburetor may also have a tag attached. These numbers might help you pin down the year.
Depending on exactly what parts you need….the engine model number may be all you need.
There are some very good Tecumseh Service manuals available as PDF. Let me know if you need a copy.
There is a lot of information on Tecumseh out there. I don’t think that the attached PDF will address your engine specifically but it has a lot of very good information…..and it does address the correct replacement procedure for the fuel pump “element” which is rather unique to their motors.
Attached File
Tecumseh_2-Cycle_Engines_Service_Information
There’s some info in this PDF which might help. Maybe that .073 should be .173?
Tecumseh-Split-Cases
quote John8504:
The engine at hand is my 74′ ted Williams 15hp motor. I have battled some demons with this one and had major problems getting it to run this morning. I could get it to idle poorly and then in gear it would not rev very well and just die.
I let it sit for a while because I’m frustrated, 4 hours to be exact. I come back out and start it up on first pull. Idles great! Reverse is great! Forward, no go. Forward has no power and does several seconds after being engaged. Seconds after this video, it died.
What could be going on?
https://youtu.be/Wgg2hHnRkcM
John, I have not worked with your Make and Model motor. It seems it is Eska with Tecumseh 2 stroke powerhead. I was looking for some manuals that might help you out. Maybe you already have manuals but I figured it could not hurt to post them for you. Some have diagnostic and resolution charts.
Even if you have spark on both cylinders, try the drop cylinder test. While the motor is running, disconnect the top spark plug wire from the spark plug. If it dies, then you have spark issues to the bottom cylinder. If it continues running then replace the top spark plug wire back on the top spark plug. Let it run for about 20 seconds then disconnect the bottom spark plug wire from the spark plug. If it dies, then you have spark issues to the top cylinder. This demonstrates that even if you have spark, there may be fault with the coil, condenser or points with the associated cylinder if it can not cause combustion under compression. Please use insulted pliers or heavy insulted gloves to remove the spark plugs wires while running…..zzap gets your attention….lol
As always, check to make sure the fuel cap air tap is opened and not clogged. This will cause fuel delivery issues and poor running.
Cheers,
Cajun
Hope they help you out.
Probably not much help, but this is the closest thing
I could find relating to Tecumseh and Outboards…..
Hi vidaliaman – welcome back! Looks like you’ve found an Outboard Jet J-55B. This is the earlier brother to the OJ200s that several members have – many folks feel they are more reliable than the later unit! I looked through the OJ material and a couple of Abos Guides I have handy and nowhere can I find a note on the mix. However, as I recall, the 55 uses a Tecumseh/Power Products powerhead – at that time they almost all called for 16:1 (save really heavy duty ones like on the Dragonfly that need 10:1) using air-cooled 2-cycle oil. I’m sure 16:1 will be fine especially using modern oil. I’ll keep my eyes open and see if I can dig up confirmation, I also have a paper file on these motors I can dig up and look through.
The brochure for the 55 is posted over on my OddJob Motors site on the OJ-200 page, you may find it interesting if you haven’t already got it: http://www.oddjobmotors.com/images/outboard_jet_200/oj_j55b_brochure.pdf Unfortunatly I don’t see the gas/oil mix mentioned. There’s other miscellaneous OJ stuff there too, though most pertains to the 200.
I should mention that the Achilles heal for the OJ200 is the impeller up inside the induction chamber. While the whole motor is so heavily made it could deflect 50cal bullets, the impeller is made from the crappiest plastic imaginable. Of the 4 motors I have, there is only one with the impeller intact! Any debris, pebbles, sea weed (or whatever) that gets by that intake grill easily can damage it. (see photo below) Not sure what material it is made out of on your 55 but it is worth checking that it isn’t flayed like most of mine. I’m hoping the world of 3D printers gets to the point where I can scan and output a new one, certainly the material wouldn’t be any worse than what it was originally made with. So far my first attempt with the one at our local library came out like a blob, but as the technology improves, (and if I can get someone to help me who is knowledgeable about the CAD program associated – AKA son Hurricane Harry), there may be hope!
Good luck, these motors are the Rolls Royce of small jet outboards – a far cry from the Lancaster Guppy that sits next to mine on the rack!
Here’s a photo of the second best main-impeller I have, those blades stuck out about 2 1/2" from the hub initially. Sand, gravel or anything that is sucked into the impeller chamber can easily wear down the blades. So far I’ve been unable to find a replacement/substitution, all the Jet Ski ones I’ve seen are larger and of a different design that won’t fit in the housing.
It looks like the company was based out of Springfield MO in the early 60’s and they used four horse Tecumseh/Power Products motors for the powerhead. The rest reminds me of an Eska.
http://www.agott.com/glassboat/Manuals/Mono.pdf
