Home Forum Ask A Member 18-20-25 Fuel Diverter Cylinders run warmer?

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  • #2038
    johnyrude200
    Participant

      You guessed it, I’ve been working on a few of these recently. They have been ranging from pre-crankcase circulation lines to right up to the lousy 1976 models.

      I have noticed during my bench tests that the cylinder where the extra fuel line heads into consistently runs between 15-20 degrees warmer on all models. Is this just because that extra fuel is just ‘adding more fuel to the flame?’

      It’s a pattern I’ve observed on motors where the line is running from the intake manifold/crank case to either the top or bottom intake bypass covers. It’s been a pretty consistent pattern I’ve noticed, too.

      Generally I’m running these motors for 30-90 minutes continuously on the first trial run after repairs, to see how the cooling system is performing (after the carb is adjusted, of course). I run them at a minimum of 3/4 throttle continuously for 5 mins to make sure they aren’t overheating and keep the laser thermometer pointed at both top and bottom cylinders, and to the thermostat bypass, and back and forth to see that it is working properly.

      #20313
      frankr
      Participant

        US Member

        At anything above idle, I don’t think the extra fuel to the upper cylinder amounts to a drop in the bucket. I’m sure you know that thermostat models have a different water route through the powerhead than non-thermostat models, right? Could that be responsible for what you are observing?

        #20315
        johnyrude200
        Participant

          I do know the water route is different, but I’ve noticed that wherever that extra fuel is being dumped, that cylinder is running hotter. Usually it runs about 10-15° above the ‘lean’ cylinder, and once the thermostat opens, it doesn’t mean anything, but I have been seeing those cylinders run up to 175° until the thermostat opens.

          The cylinder head (where the thermostat sits) seems to take awhile to catch up to the temperature of the cylinders, and of course if one is running a little warmer than the other, than by the time the thermostat opens, it may be operating a little above the right range. The thermostats I use are set for 143°, but I’ll have cylinders running 160° and the thermostat is still only at 120°.

          I am pointing the laser at the cylinder walls (top and bottom), although I thought I read a good place is where the ID plug is punched in. Any areas you use to use as a tell tale?

          #20330
          dan-in-tn
          Participant

            US Member

            If anything the rich cylinder would be cooler, but spend all your time with your infrared gun at the thermostat cover. That will be the only consistent temp area on the motor. As the thermostat opens and closes you will see the temp change, but if all is working properly it should be pretty close on numbers. Looking around on the engine you can find all kind of hot spots. Some areas of the motor don’t even get any water or have no water jacket around them. A lot of guys like to shoot the base of the spark plugs and that will be one of the hottest parts of the engine. Good for finding out if engine is running on both cylinders, but not so good for over heat diagnosis. Just my opinion of what we see with the motors that have sensors with errant warnings.

            Dan in TN

            #20331
            johnyrude200
            Participant

              Ill post a pic of the 3 spots I spend the majority of time on with the heat gun for all motors across the board tomorrow. If anything, I almost never look at the cylinder heads but focus on the starboard side cylinders (unless its a 9.9/15, where the exhaust is on that side) and thermostat orifice. With 4hp motors, the head will be 180-220 degrees, yet the cylinders will be 85-90. I will say Ive dealt with a few motors where that t-stat orifice isnt giving an accurate reading because the cylinder head orifice leafing into the thermostat bypass is occluded or plugged.

              Recall our phone conversation from 3 months back with that 20 where the tap broke off in the cylinder head screw hole? That was a great motor, but that 1/8th inch cylinder passage was plugged, so the motor couldnt be run more than 60 seconds before the heat went too high. Yet the blubber hole showed water pumping like a hose.

              Personal Story. The reason I’m so anal about cooling systems is because my 2nd motor, ever, was – ’69 johnson 25 that I seized 4 times due to an overheat. I melted the top piston and it still started on the 1st pull but had no top end after 5 seconds. I still own that block, but the other 95% had been repurposed (now that I’m turning wrenches full time.) The local dealer screwed me at least 5 times to the tune of 1,500.00, which is why Im in business now.

              As usual, Im just looking for the best way to evaluate motors to insure they are ready to be put back into reliable, regular service. As said in Wayne’s World…IM NOT WORTHY! Here to absorb as much knowledge as possible.

              Thanks again guys.

              #20334
              frankr
              Participant

                US Member

                Water flows at all times through the exhaust cover and the top of the thermostat housing, and out the down tube at the back of the head. That route is not thermostat controlled, so that explains why your temp checks are all over the scale around the head. Only the cylinder jackets and bottom half of the thermostat housing and around the outside edges of the head are directly affected by the thermostat. Of course regardless of that, there is heat transfer through the metal parts which may be unpredictable.

                You are going far beyond any temperature checks I’ve ever done. So this is educational to me. The highest tech I’ve ever done was the old heat check crayons, which were next to worthless.

                #20397
                garry-in-michigan
                Participant

                  Lifetime Member

                  Frank said

                  quote :

                  the old heat check crayons … were next to worthless.

                  However, they were superior to brown and blistered paint –

                  The test for Mercuries, from what I witnessed saturday, is to run them for a few minutes and then sprinkle water on them the see if it produces steam (It did) . . . 😆

                  #20399
                  fleetwin
                  Participant

                    US Member - 2 Years

                    Yeah, I would expect the richer cylinder to be cooler, so I’m thinking the higher temps are not fuel mixture related. There will be some temperature variations around different parts of the block, so try not to over analyze this stuff. I surely understand why you are being so meticulous though, and have fallen victim to "over thinking it" too many times for my own good as well.
                    Just curious as to who the dealer was, but understand if you don’t want to discuss it online.
                    Don

                    #20402
                    johnyrude200
                    Participant

                      The marina was called Owen’s marine. They went bankrupt 4 times, and finally folded 3 months ago, and I was able to salvage about 40 years worth of parts motors/NOS and various items. Basically they lost their ability to be distributors for all the major brands over the past few years, with each loss essentially being another nail in the coffin so to speak.

                      There is nothing more depressing then walking around a 8,000sf marina that has been in business for 20 years, and watching, literally, 40 flatbed trucks come in and just take hundreds upon hundreds of motors to the scrap yard indiscriminately. I was there for at least 30 hours straight over the course of 2-3 days going through every rack, closet, shelf, cubby, and bin to try and pull as much stuff as I could to save it from going to scrap. And there was/is stuff that is perfectly usable still there, but at this point the bank owns it, and I don’t think that property will be occupied for a long time based on the soil sample results, it’s one of those situations where they were not disposing of things consistently or safely, and now it’s really bad.

                      I will say this, when a customer pays $680.00 to have a clutch dog switched out, (later to find out all they did was reverse the thing), that is clearly unethical. All and all, the roots of my education doing repairs stemmed from the $4,000.00 they cost me over the past 5 years, but that’s why I’m in business now, and what I was able to salvage from their location before the sheriff threw the padlocks on, as the saying goes, ‘what goes around comes around’ I guess.

                      There is another marina just north of me that is family operated and still authorized by BRP for evinrude sales. I have a few stories about them too and some tricks they pulled. I mean, I understand people need to make a living, but to flat out lie to customers just to bilk them for extra $$$ is something I disagree with.

                      #20411
                      fleetwin
                      Participant

                        US Member - 2 Years

                        Yeah, dishonesty like that usually comes from financial desperation. A short term financial solution for sure, bad news travels fast. I hope you were able to recoup a bit of your wasted repair bills with low priced usable stuff.

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