1913 evinrude rowboat motor

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  • tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #203300

    I’ve got an old RBM I’m wanting to finally get running. The packing gland on the shut off valve is dripping a little fuel but I can handle that one I think. The thing I don’t know is the adjusting valve on the carb, does it screw all the way in or all the way out when the tank is full? Spark advance all the way to the right when starting, sitting in the boat I assume? The couple of times I’ve tried to start it, when I rock the flywheel it has tried to “hit” a few times while rocking the flywheel prior to spinning thru compression. Then when I spin thru the compression stroke…..nothing. I’ve got an old rhinelander rowboat that I’ve restored and would love to get this old motor going. Any pictures of one wired up to the buzz box or any helpful insight is appreciated

    It's a jungle out there.


    pm-t2

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 516
    Topics: 44
    #203319

    IF its a 1913 motor, the best way to start it is bouncing it against compression. Thus, you want to retard the spark. Sounds like you have it fully advanced.

    On a 1913, I think there are three valve adjustments. One is the valve that lets fuel flow to the mixer. This must be wide open. The next is the thumbwheel on top of the carb. This should be open 1 turn from closed. It controls how far the poppet valve can open. The third adjustment is the actual fuel mixture needle. It should be open about 5/8 to 3/4 of a turn from closed, and no more.

    Starting procedure – open gas shut-ff, and open poppet valve one turn, and open your mixture needle at 5/8 of a turn. Hold the poppet valve stem up until fuel drips out of the carb. If you are in the boat, place the timer lever at the 7 o’clock position (it will be close to the gas tank there) and rock the flywheel back and forth so that the poppet valve snorts several times. Then pull the flywheel backwards AGAINST compression. If everything is correct and you have a good ignition system, it should kick back the other way and take off for you. You will then be able to adjust the mixture needle to smooth it out and also advance the timing as required. Hope this helps.

    Best,
    PM T2


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #203328

    Thanks for the detailed reply, I’ll try this here in a little while and post results. I wasn’t aware of the needle valve adjustment so hopefully this and the 7 o’clock position with the spark retard will get me some results

    It's a jungle out there.


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #203333

    Ok I only see two stems on the carb. One is obviously the fuel cut off the other is on top and has numbers on it. I see the check valve on the bottom but I’m guessing that’s not adjustable.when I try to bounce it against compression with the spark retard lever at 7 o’clock , it will hit but the flywheel only makes a complete revolution every 3rd or fourth try. And at about the same rate it will bounce back and forth at a half moon arc for about a two seconds. I pulled the plug out and had the piston at TDC and it appears like the timing lever points are touching at this point, which is correct I think. I know it’s actually firing because after trying to start it for about ten minutes the cylinder is hot. (Not hot hot mind you but evidence of an explosion) is it the timing? Again any help is appreciated

    It's a jungle out there.


    pm-t2

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 516
    Topics: 44
    #203341

    It might be too rich and is getting flooded. Close the lower needle valve completely and try starting it like that. If it takes off then quits, its a sign that 5/8th of a turn on the mixture is too much.

    PM T2


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #203356

    Ok I’ve tinkered with the two needle valves back and forth and together and everything I can think of. But the good news is after doing all this I did get it started and it sat there and ran smooth at what I would call medium idle speed. I adjusted the upper needle back and forth a hair at a time and smoothed it up more. I ran it no more than 15 seconds. Shut it off and let it cool off for 1/2 hour or so. Tried to start it again and no luck. Same as before, tried to hit but wouldn’t run. I’m under the impression from what I read that you SHOULD be able to open the fuel shut off all the way and all the carb adjustment is done with the top dial with the numbers, this ISNT the case though, if I open it all the way up it floods and too far in and I think it starves. At least I know it WILL run. I may take the fuel shut off valve out and see what it looks like. Are there any type kits available for these? Or just home remedies? Thanks again for the response

    It's a jungle out there.


    The Boat House


    Replies: 4549
    Topics: 111
    #203358


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #203384

    Thanks tubs , sometimes a picture is worth 1,000 words. With what you’ve shown me , I DO NOT have a fuel shutoff. I was thinking the one on top was the one I was opening 5/8. I’ll try again and maybe have a little more luck. Thanks to both of you.

    It's a jungle out there.


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #203385

    Went out to the shop this morning before work and used the information I was given. After 6 or 8 tries it started and ran. Didn’t let it run but about 10 seconds. Gotta fix the drip at the fuel valve and also noticed quite a bit of grease on the floor under the lower unit so I’ll have to check this as well. Thanks for the help guys, I was just confused on which valve did what and now I know so hopefully on my next voyage I won’t be paddling lol.

    It's a jungle out there.


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #203490

    Got the carb leak fixed and found out the hard way a hot battery is a necessity for running these things
    Now the lower gear oil/ grease ran out in a puddle, on the floor from all the trying to start it and running it a couple short times. Took the prop off and the plate behind it , no seals whatsoever, I guess this is normal? The prop shaft goes thru a sleeve and fits pretty tight but still enough room for oil to get out / water to get in. If there are no seals do you just use the grease and keep it changed after every use ? Just don’t wanna take it out and destroy something, thoughts and suggestions are appreciated

    It's a jungle out there.

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