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garry-in-michigan.
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February 28, 2017 at 3:15 am #6430
When this 1925 Elto model C is at rest, there is a small but very strong spring and a polished metal ball sitting on the air valve. The ball is free to move up and down through the center of the small spring. This small spring is also free to move up and down in the cover. It appears from the wear mark that the valve has been hitting the cover. The springs purpose may have been as a stop for the valve, but what is the purpose of the ball. The 2nd picture shows where the strong spring and ball are located in the cover.
February 28, 2017 at 2:42 pm #53641I’m in the middle of doing one of these
and there isn’t a check ball in mine. This
is the only Rudder Twin I have ever had
but most of my motors have poppet
valves and none have had a check ball.
So either mine is missing or yours shouldn’t
be there. I believe the small Dia. spring
should be secure in the cap, not free to
move up and down.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
February 28, 2017 at 7:48 pm #53646This is the first time I have seen the inside of one of those VERY antique carburetors. Are they much different from Ole’s Row Boat Motors? . . . 😐
March 1, 2017 at 1:01 am #53655Tubs, how did you clean the carb parts?
They look brand new!March 1, 2017 at 1:19 am #53656This is the first time I have seen the inside of one of those VERY antique carburetors. Are they much different from Ole’s Row Boat Motors? . . . 😐
Other than the materials the design is nearly identical, the old RBM’s are made from bronze and the Elto’s from aluminum…for the most part all of them that I have ever seen.
I am not sure on the Model K RBM if it has an aluminum mixer or bronze…
Richard
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comMarch 1, 2017 at 1:35 am #53657The Model K Evinrude RBM has an aluminum mixer.
March 1, 2017 at 2:17 pm #53675By Jim Ross AOMCI. I believe what you have is a original "C" carb. with a homemade valve cap as the cap that is on it was never used. Thru the "C & "D"
it had a hex cap with a ratchet and adjustable lever on top with which you could adj the valve "lift". That was the last single poppet carb and the "G" the following year had a 2 poppet carb with crossing slots in it to tighten. Some one has attempted to convert to the later style. If you send me your e-mail I can send a pix. I also can furnish the parts to complete your carb as the body hasn’t been altered. If you send a e-mail address can send you a pix <sogentiiiky@gmail.com>. Or call 1-731-584-2195.March 1, 2017 at 3:16 pm #53677March 1, 2017 at 3:57 pm #53683Looking through my picture files and my
Old Outboard book it would seem that "C"
motors with earlier serial numbers would have
the hex cap with a ratchet and adjustable
lever on top. Also the Old Outboard book
doesn’t list "C" serial numbers past 20999.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
March 1, 2017 at 4:05 pm #53684quote Tubs:Looking through my picture files and my
Old Outboard book it would seem that "C"
motors with earlier serial numbers would have
the hex cap with a ratchet and adjustable
lever on top. Also the Old Outboard book
doesn’t list "C" serial numbers past 20999.
That is a typo, should extend to 29,999. Mine is serial # 23336
And mine is like yours Tubs
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com -
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