- This topic has 9 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 3 years ago by
.
-
I’m in the process on installing “new” components inside of my old coil housing.
I have a suggested wiring diagram, but I can not get it through my thick skull
how to physically wire the kill switch on the tiller that only has one wire run to it.Your assignment, should you accept it, it to “connect the wires” in my drawing
to make a functional coil. Should no one accept the assignment, I may “self
destruct” soon, lol.On the port side coil casing end cap, there are four holes.
-Timer – single wire thru it.
-Kill Switch – single wire thru it.
-Battery – Dual wire
-Plug wire
Prepare to be boarded!
Tubs, that’s a good idea on the condenser placement.
Not sure I have any automotive style caps at the moment,
as I’ve been using the electronic style on most older motors.I’ll “mock” everything up on the bench outside of the coil housing,
and test my wiring setup before I embed anything in wax!
Thanks!Prepare to be boarded!
Late 60’s Mopar use an ignition condenser with
a value within the .25 value range that is
suggested for these substitute coils where you
have no way to know what the value would be.
Tubs
I temporarily wired the new components and did some testing.
All appears to be okay, so I soldered up the wires and
shoved everything in the old case. Tomorrow it’s time
to get out the canning wax and seal the deal.After the video I checked the kill switch function, and I still
had spark with the kill button pushed. I panicked at first,
looked it over, and decided to remove the extra ground
jumper I had from the battery negative, to the tiller housing.
It worked good then!
Prepare to be boarded!
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
