Thanks Bob. That’s a slightly different beast, being a twin cylinder.
I just searched “glass tube” and that post came up.

Thanks for posting that spring tubs. I’ll dig around the waste tar a little
to see if the baby (spring) got thrown out with the bath water.

The spring looks like an attempt to insure electrical contact with the
secondary button. You wouldn’t think it would hold up, or be too effective,
but I did have continuity with the ohm meter from the plug terminal
to the windings, before I tore it apart.
FYI for anyone whose curious, The primary ohms on the coil were .1 K, secondary 5.2K.

Perhaps I’ll solder a brass tab onto the secondary button and attach the plug wire
like you did. Seems to me I may have done something similar on an A-45 or similar motor.

I opted to install the new plug wire similar to the original setup,
with a few changes.

I never found the old contact spring, but assume there was one there.
I dug through my stash of springs and altered a compression spring to fit.
I later trimmed the outboard end of the spring shorter than the photo,
as I was afraid it could arc on the mag plate.

I soldered the end of the plug wire to the spring.
The old rubber bushing under the knurled nut was shot, so I made one
that seem to work good, out of an old style, hard rubber faucet washer,
that already had the correct taper to fit in the knurled nut correctly.
I had to drill the hole in the rubber washer out bigger, to 9/32″, so the
plug wire was a snug fit inside of the washer. When the knurled nut is
tightened down, it seem to hold the wire fixed tightly in position.

I wrapped electrical tape around the spring (inside of the original glass
insulating tube), leaving the end of the spring bare, as to contact the
secondary button on the coil. Before installing it, I put a generous amount
of silicone grease on the secondary button and inside of the spring,
to prevent corrosion. For extra luck, I used some liquid tape around each
end of the glass tube to help keep moister out, and put some around the
plug wire inside of the knurled nut.

After all said and done, I rechecked the ohms, and got the same reading as
in the one photo.
Time will tell if it’s successful…… but then again, I’m not even sure it’s going to have
enough compression to be a runner.

I finished up the magneto today….. I hope.
I tore apart the old condenser can. If I had this one
to do over, I would not have cut the back end of the can off
with the Dremel. Once I had the end opened up, I was not
able to extract the guts, as there’s a solid 1/4″ brass round stock
going down the entire center length of the condenser.
The Bakelite & brass business end that has the terminal was soldered
to the can. Ended up heating up the can with the little torch and pulled
it apart, with no apparent damage to the Bakelite.
Then was able to hacksaw the guts off close to the terminal end and finish
removing the guts.
A tiny hole was drilled along side of the brass terminal threaded hole,
for the .1 mfd capacitor wire to run thru.
Another small hole was drilled thru the condenser can end that I cut off,
for the other capacitor lead to exit and be soldered to the can as a ground.
Not as pretty as I hoped, but hopefully it works.

I started on the lower unit next. From external appearances, it appeared
to be in good shape.

I’m not sure how well it pumped water last time run, but pretty sure
the water pump piston spring should not be seen in this photo.
What can I make a new piston out of?