Home Forum Ask A Member 1936 Evinrude 4.4 hp Fisherman model 4148 motor

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 40 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #276720
    Ed Voll
    Participant

      New member, newly acquired motor. would like to get it running if possible and clean up. This motor has laid in a basement for ~ 60 years. The tank has dried fuel like shellac. Where can I get a manual, service manual for this motor? Also, what solvent can I use to soak the tank interior with and also to flush through the fuel line and spray in the carb. It is pretty gummed up and I want to preserve the labeling , instructions on the body as much as possible.

      Finally parts like seals and gaskets, maybe magneto and accessories would potentially be needed. Thank you much.

      Ed Voll

      #276723
      Buccaneer
      Participant

        US Member

        It will be best to remove the carb, disassemble, and soak the
        metal parts in carb cleaner.

        The gas tank should be removed as well.
        Remove the fuel fitting from the bottom of the gas tank.
        Some models have a fuel filter screen attached to this fitting
        which will often need replaced, or cleaned at the least.

        I often use a pint of  mineral spirits and throw a bunch of
        sharp wood screws inside of the gas tank, and shake the
        tank a couple of times a day over a few days. Soapy
        water and lots of rinsing will remove the loose residue.

        Good luck on your project! Hope to see some photos
        some time!

        Prepare to be boarded!

        1 user thanked author for this post.
        #276724
        Tubs
        Participant


          There isn’t a service manual just for that motor.
          Some info may be found in this general service manual. Try copying and pasting this link to see if that will work.
          file:///F:/11Outboards/11My%20Outboard%20Motors%20Help/Manuals/Manual%20Evinrude/EvinrudeSM1912-1945.pdf
          For cleaning out dried up fuel I like Berrymans B12 using the same process as the Buccaneer
          describes. It will affect your decal though so be careful with it. I use Gumout for cleaning other
          fuel system parts. I don’t believe there are any seals in that motor. Use lubriplate 105 or corn
          head grease in the gear case as a substitute for the original grease’s that are no longer available.
          This person is reproducing gaskets for earlier outboards on eBay. He may be interested in
          making you what you need. I, like many others, just make my own.
          https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=265683099819&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562&_ssn=johnfolke
          Later coils can sometimes be adapted if necessary. Points should only need a cleaning.
          A later condenser can be used if necessary.
          Here is a video on how to remove the flywheel if there are no holes for a puller. I have welded 2 nuts together but if you just jam them together on the bolt it will work.
          https://youtu.be/RWgE9XiIBnk
          I hope this helps you some.
          Tubs
          .

          A "Boat House Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

          1 user thanked author for this post.
          #276746
          fifty20ne
          Participant

            US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

            SC

            I use Supe Clean the purple jug to clean my tanks with

            nuts, bolts, & BB’s from pellet gun.

            Art Dekalb has a great check list for getting them running.

            Art’s Five Point Plan | PrecisionServOutboard

             

             

            1 user thanked author for this post.
            #277022
            Michael
            Participant

              International Member

              I never understand why people use a bunch of small items to clean the inside of the tank. I prefer to use a small length of chain.  That way only one item in tank and no fear of not getting the last small item out.

              #277219
              Ed Voll
              Participant

                some pictures of 1936 Evinrude Fisherman 4.4 HP . Cleaned out the fuel tank , valve, and line and now looks good. But the ignition is the issue; spark wires broke at magneto plate, testing shows condenser is open and coil also looks bad. Finally the magnets only lightly hold a screwdriver tip to them, they seem weak. If anybody has specs on a replacement condenser, and a coil I would just replace them. Also I will inquire from Art if he can remagnetize my flywheel head to full strength.

                 

                Ed Voll

                #277236
                Tubs
                Participant



                  I have had a magnet charger for over 40 years. I have learned that although the magnets
                  do loose strength over time they still retain enough so the motor will start and run fine.
                  If you can find someone to recharge your flywheel great, but don’t bail on this motor
                  If you can’t.
                  Without knowing the exact value of your condenser a value of .25 mf in most cases
                  should be close.
                  You should test the coil windings. If they are not open its worth giving the coil a try
                  even without knowing the secondary value.
                  Need to see a picture of the mag to let you know of other possible coil options if necessary.
                  Spark plug wires look original. Good sign. Motor could be low hours.
                  Tubs
                  .

                  A "Boat House Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

                  1 user thanked author for this post.
                  #277991
                  Ed Voll
                  Participant

                     

                    ksjfhlakhfajfh/Users/edwinvoll/Desktop/Photo on 7-11-23 at 10.33 PM #2 6.jpg

                    Ed Voll

                    #277993
                    Ed Voll
                    Participant

                      So the picture above shows the needle valve lever in the center of the picture. how should I adjust that lever; it can rotate several times ;do I turn till I feel resistance, then back off a half turn? they position it is in now doesn’t really fit in the slot opening in the motor hood, cowling . I know most don’t run with the hood on but the lever should move freely when that motor hood is on. Thanks for any help,

                      Ed Voll

                      #277994
                      Tubs
                      Participant



                        Once you find the best running position set
                        the lever so it will be in the center of its movement
                        when the cover is on.
                        Only slight adjustments are necessary. Normally
                        slightly richer for cold starting.
                        Tubs
                        .

                        Motor

                        A "Boat House Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

                      Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 40 total)
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.