Topic: 1946 Champion 1J 4.2 parts? – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 9 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 8 months ago by T.C..

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August 7, 2021 at 8:51 pm #244408
T.C.
Participant
I currently have one running and one parts 1J’s… just rebuilt the better carburetor and hopefully stopped it from leaking… the rebuild kit that I bought had a couple of parts that didn’t fit right, so had to use the old parts from the original… so the question is: is there a better supplier of maybe original gaskets than on ebay? Has anyone else had issues with these carbs leaking? I also noticed that some of the treaded parts were not exactly interchangeable.

Also: the ’46 1J used the ME-1A carburetor but it’s my understanding they upgraded to the ME-1B in ’47… I did find a 1B new in the box and was wondering if anyone else had any experience “upgrading” their motor to this without any issues? The only noticeable change was the Main Fuel Butterfly was cut a bit different and the low speed needle valve stem.

I also need lower gaskets for the parts motor if I’m going to get it running… and don’t know yet if I’ll need anything else or any of the electronics… any information would help.

Thanks
- This topic was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by T.C..
August 7, 2021 at 9:32 pm #244414
Bob Wight
Participant
US Member
Not sure which rebuild kit you used but on my Champion project, I got a rebuild kit direct from Discount Marine Parts and it had all the new parts and pieces needed. Here’s a link to their Tillotson ME carb kit listing:

https://discount-marine-parts.com/tillotson_me.html

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."
- This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Bob Wight.
August 8, 2021 at 12:33 am #244424
T.C.
Participant
This is the only one I found, but that was several weeks before I found the ABOC and before I joined here…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192602583439 ( I just checked the part number from your list… and it’s the same one I used )

and the New replacement Needle Seat would not thread into the bowl… I had to use the old original

Thank you… I’ll check out that link…

Tony
- This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by T.C..
August 8, 2021 at 8:09 am #244441
Bob Wight
Participant
US Member
The one you used is the Ebay site for Discount Marine Parts, so it’s the same kit shown on their own website. Not sure why it doesn’t work on your carb – maybe contact them and see if they can help.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."
August 8, 2021 at 9:35 am #244446
T.C.
Participant
Well I did use the new inlet needle but figured the seat isn’t going to be worn out… I also found, as I was working on 2 carbs at the same time that the threads of the inner petcock shafts were not interchangeable either… they only fit back into their original housing… my assumption is their machining of certain parts was not all that accurate and possibly hand fitted on the assembly line.

I currently have the NIB ME-1B that I’m ready to install, the rebuilt original ME-1A, an ME-1A (missing parts) that I bought for what parts I could salvage, and another complete (badly varnished up) ME-1a I got on a parts motor that I can probably get running… so I’m pretty good for parts… it’s mostly gasket issues that have caused the most problem… I still need to find gaskets for the lower unit to get the parts motor up and running, or find sheets of gasket paper to cut my own.

I’d still like to hear from anyone who might have upgraded their ME-1A to the 1B and if it went fine or if there were issues…

Thanks
August 8, 2021 at 10:34 am #244447
outbdnut2
Participant
US Member
Auto parts stores carry sheets of gasket material. Below is an example of many types available from O’Reilly auto online or many in their stores.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/chemicals—fluids/glues–adhesives—sealants/gasket-material/33e43ac38f2f?q=%27gasket+material%27

To make your own gaskets, I strongly recommend a hole punch kit, as it’s difficult to cut small round holes with an Xacto knife. Place the gasket material over a wood board when using the punches so they don’t get dull when they break through. I use this one from Harborfreight: https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

You can also use the punches where you need inside-radiused corners – punch holes to get those curved corners and then cut the rest of the gasket with a knife.

Dave
- This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by outbdnut2.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by outbdnut2.
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T.C.
August 8, 2021 at 4:08 pm #244467
T.C.
Participant
back “in the day” in my teens, we used to use the ball on a ball peen hammer to tap out the holes… probably wouldn’t have thought of using punches… lol… thanks for the information.
August 16, 2021 at 4:53 pm #244997
ronboonville
Participant
T.C. I too am still having leaking trouble with my carb. I’ve made paper gasket and twice cork with no luck. Also the drain screw is leaking.I am going to use aviation gasket sealer with the cork next. I think the store bought gasket is $30, more than I want to spend. ron.
August 16, 2021 at 5:23 pm #244999
T.C.
Participant
both the original carb and the new in the box carb leaked out of the bowl drain hole… what I did is wrapped pipe tap around the threads of the drain screw, but also self threaded a short screw with Permatex Seal+Lock thread compound and added a small rubber O ring… that worked… after sealing up every threaded hole in the New Carb… I found that the “factory sealed” Fuel Bowl Plug screw is leaking and I think the Main Adjustment Screw Gland bowl threads are also possibly leaking… I’ve got to take it apart again… this makes like the 5th time I’ve installed and removed it because it keeps leaking.. I did put in that synthetic fuel like as getting the copper line lined up every time was becoming a pain… you can go to a hardware store and get copper tubing, and the round brass seal plugs and new crew caps, the yellow synthetic tubing that you can see fuel flow and tubing clamps… I could have just cut my original copper fuel like but I wanted to save it for authenticity if I ever sold the motor.

Here is a photo of the threaded screw I used to plug the drain hole… I kind of thought putting a nut on would give it more surface area but it made the screw sit to low and hit the face plate when trying to re-attach it… first image is before I found out I needed a rubber O ring… but you have to cut the screw really short as to not interfere with the actual drain plug…. I also took a short piece of pipe tape and folded it in 3rds lengthwise and put one wrap basically on every threaded screw I thought might be or could leak… LOL… the motor runs fine… I’m think their machining tolerances SUCKED…
August 16, 2021 at 5:29 pm #245002
T.C.
Participant
I also couldn’t figure out where the leaks were first coming from, so I put a folded paper towel under the carb and that first showed me it if was a screw on the left, right, or front to narrow it down.

if you need additional parts, give me a shout as I bought two parts carbs that were missing some parts but still have a fair selection of extra screws and needle valves.

Tony
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