Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1948 Gale Hiawatha 5HP
- This topic has 51 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 7 months ago by
frankr.
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August 14, 2020 at 6:36 am #211619
Your old pump doesn’t look bad to me.
August 14, 2020 at 9:48 am #211627You got the wrong pump rotor. It appears to be for the 3hp motors.
August 14, 2020 at 10:00 am #211628I tested the old pump two ways. I fully assembled the motor with the cleaned out passages and new upper gaskets. Started the engine and there was no water circulation and the head got hot.
I then dropped the lower unit section and put a hose to the lower water passage tube. Water flowed through the head and out the exhaust. I then Started the engine with the water flowing And the engine ran cool to the touch. So the water passages are flowing, I’m just not getting enough pressure to get the water up there.
I then attached a drill to the lower drive shaft and spun the lower section with prop in the correct direction to check flow from the pump. It was barely moving any water up the water tube to the 90 degree bend.
All prop holes and passages are clear. It must be the rubber pump. It looks ok but seems to be very weak.
So the pump Brian Wilcox sent is from a 3hp model? Hopefully he gets back with me later today.
August 16, 2020 at 5:11 pm #211821Brian Wilcox emailed me and there was a slight mix-up. He sent me an HD25 pump and accidentally sent a different guy my Gale 5hp pump. I must say this has happened to me a few times sending things on eBay. He volunteered to send out a replacement Monday. It was very nice of him.
Can anyone explain the process for tightening the prop nut or a general rule. I have been tightening them hand tight, then going past 2-3 holes to put the pin in. Is that correct? My 1954 Scott At Water seems to loosen the prop nut even after doing that.
August 16, 2020 at 5:27 pm #211823I don’t consider the prop nut to be rocket science. Snug it up and stick the cotter pin in. Doesn’t have anything to do with the water pumping, if that’s what you are thinking.
August 16, 2020 at 6:21 pm #211826I know it doesn’t have anything to do with the water pump but how tight? There seems to be allot of variation. Hand Tight, one or two holes passed hand tight? What is your method. It seems like no mater how tight I get the nut it ends up hand tight in the end and some times bends the shear pin.
August 16, 2020 at 6:27 pm #211827I just go tight enough to take the end play out and be able to get the
cotter pin aligned. In some cases, if there’s a washer under the prop
nut, you can use a thicker or thinner washer to get the cotter pin
to align and end up with the prop nut snug.Prepare to be boarded!
August 16, 2020 at 6:37 pm #211828After I run them is seems like the nut gets slightly loose and the prop (if you grab the blades) you can get a slight rock when pushing forward and back.
I know for my Gale I can’t get the prop tight enough to take the slop out and I purchased a new cushion.
My 1954 Scott Atwater 16hp seems to have the same problem. I tightened that nut and it is now hand tight and has a slight rock when you push and pull the blades.
Is this normal?
August 16, 2020 at 7:44 pm #211832Sorry, unless I am misunderstanding you, I believe you are over thinking this thing. I don’t consider slop, rock, movement, wobble or whatever to be anything for concern. This ain’t no ocean liner with a three ton brass prop. More like a clam digger in the hands of most people.
The washer #19, 171489, is on the nose of the clutch hub, isn’t it?
August 16, 2020 at 10:04 pm #211836Haha I hear ya Frank. I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing something wrong. In my head, I just figured it should be tight at all times.
The washer is still in the nose of the Gale prop. All the parts are there. I guess it just has some slop that I didn’t expect to see.
Hope she pumps water with the new pump.
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