Home Forum Ask A Member 1948 Johnson Seahorse HD25 Carb Leaking

Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #1454
    Anonymous

      I recently was given a 1948 Johnson Seahorse HD25. It seems to be in fair condition but hadn’t been started in 30 Years. I thoroughly cleaned the sludge in the gas tank and the filter screen also. It started but didn’t run smoothly. I have some carburetor issues. There is gas leaking from the hole where the shaft of the float comes through. This is the first outboard I’ve owned and would like to get it running dependably. The motor also needs a new starting rope. The original is cracked and frayed. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.

      #15650
      aquasonic
      Participant

        US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

        Most likely the problem here is that either the float needle and seat needs cleaning, or the cork float is degraded and has lost it’s buoyancy.

        The best thing is to do a complete carb teardown and cleaning. Recoat or replace the cork float, and install new leather primer seals.

        I found this website to be very helpful: http://pochefamily.org/outboard/CarbService.html

        #15667
        legendre
        Participant

          I had to make floats for two of those carbs, and it’s really quite easy. Use the old float as a drill guide for the new cork, which you’ll shape down with a file. Once it’s shaped, put about 3-4 coats of super glue on it, even inside of the holes where the screw & rod go. You can clear / re-size the holes with a drill bit, once the glue is dry.

          The fine, little springs on the recoil ratchet pawls tend to get wrecked and/or lost. I think that motor has three, like the TD20. You can make new springs with 0.015" music wire, available from hobby & model shops, or possibly your local piano tuner. Make the new springs in-situ, right on the pulley sheaf, using the posts as bending jigs – you’ll need a fine needle-nose to form the small end that clips onto the pawl. They need to be wound tight, but not so tight that they bind up when the pawl is all the way out. If they do, the pawl(s) will rub on the inside of the ratchet gear and ruin it, so leave some extra travel in the springs.

          #15708
          Anonymous

            Thanks aquasonic and legendre for the info. I have ordered a new cork float and leather primer seals. I’ll tear it down, clean, and install the new parts and see what happens.

          Viewing 4 posts - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
          • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.