Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1950 Firestone 10-A-73, 5hp Twin Cylinder
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Buccaneer.
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April 13, 2015 at 11:56 pm #1198
I progressed some today on taking the lower unit apart on my 1950
Firestone 5hp. I used a little propane torch to heat around the
stainless steel impeller housing, and was able to pop it out to get
at, and drive out the drive shaft top bronze bushing, and lower needle
bearing.
There was no "seal" above, below, or between the two bearings,
but there was one on the prop shaft.
Being that this unit has needle bearings, is it suppose to use
gear lube instead of grease? If so, why design it with no seal
on the prop shaft to keep water out of the gear case?
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4907.jpgI understand better how the detent works in the gear case cover now,
but the brass detent didn’t appear to be screwed all the way in, and
when I did so, I wasn’t able to budge the shifting fork, as there was
too much pressure on the shifting cam.
Is the detent suppose to be screwed in tight?
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4905.jpgBearings, Bushings, Seal
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4906.jpgThe Gear Set
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4909.jpg
If I understand correctly, both gears should have the ability
to rotate freely on the prop shaft, depending on the gear selection.
Right now, the outboard gear (forward?) will not spin on the shaft when
the detent operating the clutch dog is operated. Looking
at the outboard gear, it appears to be sitting on a Torrington
needle bearing, so I’m guessing it’s froze up as well.Phelon Magneto
http://www.grayhitandmiss.com/Outboards/dscn4911.jpg
I have not tested the coils yet.
Are Phelon coils from this era problematic?
At least they aren’t all busted up!Thanks, Buccaneer
Prepare to be boarded!
April 14, 2015 at 12:17 am #13894http://www.oddjobmotors.com/tt1_replacewico_coil.htm
This link will show you how to replace the coils
April 14, 2015 at 12:20 am #13896Lower unit bearings can be purchased at any bearing place as they are standard manufactured bearings. Not special order.
I will be using grease in mine. I am pretty sure they were meant for grease not fluid but I want to keep my lower end working if the seals start leaking. Use cornhead grease or lubriplate. Hope you were able to get the manuals I sent. My indent is screwed all the way in. The gear set bushings(flat washer style with raised nubslook like they are brass or bronze) can be worn. If they are you might need replacements.April 14, 2015 at 12:28 am #13897They use grease. But I’m surprised there is no seal.
April 14, 2015 at 12:33 am #13898quote FrankR:They use grease. But I’m surprised there is no seal.Maybe thats why they all have rusted bearings in the foot
April 14, 2015 at 12:35 am #13899Be careful with the lower unit shift rod and fork. The threaded end of the shift rod is the weak link on these. Shift the lower gear case into neutral with the fork and then adjust the rod nut to the opening in the fork. If you force anything the threads snap off the rod. I bought one last year with this problem and had to fabricate my own rod. It was a lot of fooling around, but my rod is stronger then the original, and it shifts like silk now.
April 14, 2015 at 12:44 am #13903quote wannabe outboard guy:Be careful with the lower unit shift rod and fork. The threaded end of the shift rod is the weak link on these. Shift the lower gear case into neutral with the fork and then adjust the rod nut to the opening in the fork. If you force anything the threads snap off the rod. I bought one last year with this problem and had to fabricate my own rod. It was a lot of fooling around, but my rod is stronger then the original, and it shifts like silk now.Buccaneer, This is absolutely true! they are quite delicate but work well once put together. This is awesome. I finally get to talk about the the only motors I have worked on so far and have now almost shared everything I learned in the last 2 years LOL 😆
April 14, 2015 at 3:41 am #13911Thumper, just downloaded the manuals. Thanks! I’ll have to see what Scott model
best resembles my Firestone, but too late tonight.
I have numbers off all the bearings I removed with the exception of the
ball bearing on the prop shaft, so I can start looking for replacements……
but suppose I should see if I can remedy the bent L.U. housing first, lol.
10-4 on the grease Frank.
Thanks, BuccaneerPrepare to be boarded!
April 14, 2015 at 12:08 pm #13923Gearshift detent:
The detent gets stiff because the bullet at the end of the spring develops a ridge.
The only way I could cure this was to shorten the spring slightly on a grinding wheel.
Go a little at a time and test the detent action. It typically took only a 1/32" or so.April 14, 2015 at 1:20 pm #13933Jim, Thanks for the tip on the detent. I’ll look it over better today.
Prepare to be boarded!
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