That’s a nice tin plate! I take it that there is enough overall clearance for it to all fit! I have noticed on a few chain saws, they have used a nylon material about .015″ thick, instead of the tin. It works really good but eventually wears out.

As for anchoring the rope, sometime, I have to take some pictures….but what I do is use an old, thin needle bearing and drive it through the end of the nylon rope, about one inch from the end, which forms a T with the rope. The T catches in the pulley where the old hook used to attach.  I lightly heat the nylon rope, to help shrink it and capture the needle bearing. The only catch is that you have to drill a small hole in the pulley, opposite of the hook hole, for the other side of the needle bearing to insert into. This way, the needle bearing will be pulling on the upper and lower parts of the pulley at the same time, and not want to twist out. Obviously, you don’t want the needle bearing sticking out too far on the spring side of the pulley, though….just flush. Mercury uses pretty much the same method on a lot of their recoils. This isn’t really totally my own idea.

I used a spring out of a spark plug boot. Ran the rope thru the spring and tied a knot. Then use the hook end to catch the recoil.

Buccaneer wrote:

Bill, That’s a good idea. I don’t work on many Mercs, but I have seen that method
before. Thanks for reminding me! I believe on the ones I’ve seen with the pin
through the rope pulley, there was just a knot in the rope, behind the pin.

No knot behind the pin on Mercs…