1952 Johnson Seahorse qd 13

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This topic contains 64 replies, has 17 voices, and was last updated by Avatar shoestringmariner 2 years, 4 months ago.

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    grunt311
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 17
    Topics: 16
    #5997

    Hello
    I am new to the vintage outboard motor scene but have fallen in love with it fast. I purchased the following about three months back

    1959 Freeland 14′ Aluminum boat
    1958 Johnson jw 14
    1952 Johnson QD 13

    I do have a few questions though

    Is there a rebuild kit for the carb on the QD 13?

    When i start the motor it will run at a high idle but when i accelerate it seems to choke out and stop running. Easy to start back up but again run into the same issue. I have adjust the slow speed screw to about 3/4 of a turn out. This setting gives the smoothest running condition.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated as stated above i am new to this.

    Thank you, Nick

    Avatar
    billw
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1028
    Topics: 35
    #50000

    Not really intimate with the early QDs but in Mercury land, acceleration bog is often caused by a too-lean low speed adjustment. You can adjust them for smoothest idle and they will bog/die out. Making the low speed adjustment seemingly a little over-rich will cure a Merc, often. That being said, if you have not been into your carb yet, as well as the linkage adjustments, you should probably start there, for sure.

    frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4387
    Topics: 43
    #50001

    No carb kit for that motor. Never was one. You have to order individual parts. Have you tried adjusting the high speed needle? Fuel filter clean?

    labrador-guy
    labrador-guy
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 206
    Topics: 28
    #50011

    Welcome Nick! Those early QD have a strange carb that is cast with the reed plate. Getting the float bowl off is about all you can do without a major tear down. When you get the float bowl off look for a cork donut washer between the carb body and the float bowl. They get hard and disintegrate. That seal is very important in making that baby run properly. They are easy to make with some cork gasket, a paper hole cutter and some scissors. Getting the primer pump back in when you reassemble is sometimes a challenge but one thing at a time!

    dale

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1755
    Topics: 39
    #50019

    Nick,
    I also have a QD 13 I’m hoping to get to this winter. I purchased mine at Tomahawk last August. We may be able to learn from each other on these. I’m quite familiar with the mid to late 50s QDs but I have not gotten into an early one yet. If you run into something that I am able to check or help with, I’ll do my best to help out. Welcome!

    Dale, that’s good info about the carb. I’m already learning from you on this one and I haven’t even started working on this one yet. 😉
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    Avatar
    grunt311
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 17
    Topics: 16
    #50022

    Wow, Awesome info guys i appreciate it. I will get into the carb tomorrow and see what i find but thanks (Dale)for the tip on the gasket i will pay close attention to that as well. Where do i find the cork material is that something i can purchase at an auto parts store or a craft store?

    Ben looking forward to sharing notes for sure. This beast will be my primary drive on my fishing boat and i have a 3hp Johnson i will troll with. Cant wait for the weather to break to go out there and give them a run.

    Stay Tuned (no pun intended there of course) i will let you guys know what i find.

    Thanks Nick

    Avatar
    garry-in-tampa
    Lifetime Member
    Replies: 3145
    Topics: 30
    #50039

    A revolutionary outboard. They combined the 1934 Evinrude Sportsman’s read valves, the pressurized fuel tank of the 1940 Johnson SD-10, and Evinrude’s 1937 gearshift patents and "hooded power" concept to change how Johnson motors were built. It was the start what we Antique Outboard Motor Club members call "Classic Outboards". That problematic cork filter bowl gasket was later replaced by one of neoprene rubber. . . 🙂



    Many say two its better than one. . . 😆

    labrador-guy
    labrador-guy
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 206
    Topics: 28
    #50071

    Nick if you are gonna tinker with these these old motors, gasket making is something you might like to learn. NAPA has a gasket assortments with several different thickness’s and materials. A set of leather punches from harbor freight will come in handy. I have a small set of curved scissors that work good. Just take your time, punch the holes first then cut the outline of the part. You can make most gaskets except a head gasket.

    dale

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1755
    Topics: 39
    #50109

    I have a ’63 Sea King 5hp I’m doing a water pump and gear case reseal on today then I’ll see about getting into my QD13 so we can compare notes. Mine seems to have good compression and it shifts, but that’s about all I know about it so far. I’ll try to get pictures as I go. I have heard the carbs on these are a bit cantankerous. We shall see.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

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    gjonz
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 152
    Topics: 15
    #50113

    You might check out my blog. Few years ago I did an early QD. Might help. dunno.

    https://conductorjonz.wordpress.com/2011/12/12/beyond-the-sea-horse-outboard-motor-restoration-step-by-step-day-one/

    Greg

    Avatar
    grunt311
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 17
    Topics: 16
    #50152

    Thank you this is awesome i have learned more about this motor in two days that i could have figured out on my own in three years. Again thank you guys for all the info.

    Yesterday i fired the beast up and she ran fairly well. At start up it idles fine once the low speed needle is adjust and accelerates well also. Once i am at full throttle it is a little rough so i begin to adjust the high speed needle. I start at one full turn out from the seated position and go from there. Leaning it out does not help so i begin to turn it out to make it richer. The motor begins to smooth out and then seems to over rev and stall. Right about the point when it become smooth the RPM’s rise quickly to the point where it is really screaming then shuts down. Any ideas what might be going on here?
    Thank you Nick.

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1755
    Topics: 39
    #50157

    Nick,
    Good to hear you got it fired up. I’m still finishing up the Sea King 5. When you say it runs rough at high speed, is it popping or just running slower than it should, smoking a lot, and and sounding like it’s only firing about half the time or running on one cylinder? By the description it sounds like it’s running rich and you are leaning it out until it takes off, then it’s starving for fuel, but… I realize you say you had to richen it to make it run right, then it screams and stalls. Also, do you know your tank is working properly. It could be that it’s running out of fuel and, speeding up due to lean condition, then running out of fuel and stalling? Just a couple thoughts.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    Avatar
    gjonz
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 152
    Topics: 15
    #50158

    Double check the float height. It should be level with the bowl. If not it can’t feed enough fuel to allow high speed running. That float controls the needle valve feeding fuel to the carb. If it’s off a bit…no adjusting the valves will help.

    Also check the high speed and low speed needles to seed if they are worn or grooved. If so they need replaced.

    Finally…these motors are touchy when adjusting the valves due to the carb configuration. So small increments and allow the motor to "adapt" after adjusting for 15 seconds or so.

    Greg

    Avatar
    garry-in-tampa
    Lifetime Member
    Replies: 3145
    Topics: 30
    #50166

    What kind of a boat are you running it on to adjust the high speed mix. Do not run it over 4,500RPM. Do not attempt to adjust the high speed in nutral. Correct adjustment can only be achieved after the motor is warmed up on a boat. Early breaker points were designed to "Float" at 5000 RPM to protect the motor. Serra Marine advertised a stronger spring to eliminate high speed miss. Evinrude issued a bulletin that motors failing with non OMC breaker points would not be covered by there warrantee. Later OMC points had slightly stronger springs. . . 😉

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1755
    Topics: 39
    #50172

    That’s a very good point Garry. The ‘screaming’ had me wondering the same thing. That’s an interesting bit about the points being a built-in Rev limiter too. I was not aware they did that.

    I got the Sea King wrapped up and just put the old QD on the stand. Dig this paint job, will ya.

    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

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