1952 Johnson Seahorse qd 13

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This topic contains 64 replies, has 17 voices, and was last updated by  shoestringmariner 1 year, 9 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 65 total)

  • outbdnut2
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1049
    Topics: 52
    #51008

    That donut gasket is part number 73 in Gary’s exploded view of the carb. It fits over the end of part #28 and interfaces with the bottom of the carb bowl and when the bowl is screwed on it compresses this donut some. When I bought my QD-13, somebody had taken the carb apart and put it back together without that part – same symptoms you are having. I’ve seen this problem on several OMC carbs on a different HP motors from the mid to late 1950s, and into the 1960s.
    Dave

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51010

    The points cam has some definite wear on it, but it should still work OK. I may keep my eye out for a replacement.

    The rebuilt magneto is back on, the carb is clean with a new O ring for the low speed needle, and a new nozzle gasket between the bowl and the nozzle boss. The flywheel is back on and I have spark on both wires now. 😀

    Hopefully I’ll be able to try to start it this weekend.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube


    garry-in-tampa
    Lifetime Member
    Replies: 2914
    Topics: 29
    #51017

    That cam ware is from the little bits of hard coil plastic when running with cracked coils. . . 😉

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51035

    That’s good info Garry. Someone must have changedone the old cracked ones out many moons ago, or at least changedo them out with old used coils. It had brown coils in it they tested at about 3.5Kohms on the secondary. I put brand new Prufrex coils in it.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51036

    Update: IT’S ALIVE!!! 😀 I got it all put back together this afternoon, filled the test barrel and put the test wheel of it. Clamped it to the barrel, primed the fuel system and gave it a single tug. It fired up and ran in one pull. Time to pull the gearcase for a reseal. It’s a runner. I made a video and I’ll try to get it uploaded later. I’ll post a link once it up. Can’t wait to try it on the boat! :mrgreen:
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube


    david-bartlett

    Replies: 1228
    Topics: 105
    #51042

    Ben,

    Another one saved!

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51043

    Yessir! That’s a great feeling. This one should make for a bit of fun conversation at the boat launch.

    Here’s a link to the video.

    I did a little more tuning after it warmed up a bit more and it is running pretty well now. Looking forward to getting this thing dialed in on the boat. Come on spring!! I do still have lots of winter projects though. 🙄
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51052

    So I got the old girl running again. Now on to the water pump and gearcase…

    What is the proper way to disconnect the sift rod and allow the lower unit to drop? This motor has the cover on the trailing side of the exhaust housing that comes off. When that is removed the cast connector is exposed. It looks like the double nuts on the bottom of the connector should come off but they are not really accessible. Any help here would be appreciated.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51066

    I got the lower unit removal figured out. Need to remove bother rear sections of the exhaust housing from the powerhead down to unhook the shift rod from the linkage. It then needs to be unscrewed from the cast connector and the lower unit can be dropped.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube


    jerry-ahrens
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1011
    Topics: 70
    #51072

    Looks like a good runner Ben! I have one like yours, that no one wanted at one of our swap meets. You may just inspire me to tackle it and get it running. What was the first year that these motors went away from the old style coils to the universal magneto? Just curious what mine has. Good job on getting her to run again!

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51079

    Thanks Jerry! I’m not completely sure which year these motors went to the OMC Universal Magneto. My gut tells me it was 1951, but I am not sure. I have a ’49 SD-20 16hp on my to do list and it does not have the universal magneto. This QD seems like a strong runner, but she’s a noisy old girl. Should be a fun occasional runner though.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51081

    Here’s the inside of the gearcase.

    The good news is the gears and bearingsmooth still look decent. The shafts have some wear so may not seal perfectly but it will get new seals and fresh gear oil.

    Nick, I guess I sort of inadvertently hijacked your thread. I probably should have started a new one. Sorry about that. I’ll keep updating through completion if you like.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51116

    I got the gearcase cleaned out today. The gears were a little rusty, but not terrible. I got those all cleaned up. The old seals are pulled out ready to be replaced. I have put a new shift rod O-ring in and cleaned up the sealing surfaces of the gearcase in preparation for the new spaghetti seal.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube


    grunt311

    Replies: 13
    Topics: 7
    #51209

    Ben
    No worries on Hi-Jacking the thread. WOW looks awesome just pumps me up even more to keep working on mine. I am remodeling my house and currently finishing the basement so the motor time has been minimal to sat the least. Motor looks great in the video and runs well but i do have a question. In the video just after start up i see you adjust something on the right side of the carb. What is that? I thought the only adjustments were the high and low speed needle.

    Also another question on the exhaust side of the motor the part that looks like a type if manifold. When i removed that to get some of the carbon out the seals were in bad shape. The part is two pieces looks like the water is pumped thru it and in the jugs of the cyclinders. I would like to create a post int he classified for those two gaskets but do not know what the part is called.

    Thanks for the help.
    I will also post some video this weekend when i get a chance to fire the beast up. Been cold here but the next few days are warmer and i will get the test tank ready.

    Nick

    fisherman6
    fisherman6
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1653
    Topics: 37
    #51210

    Nick,

    Thank you and I’m glad to hear my posts are keeping you motivated to work on yours.

    To answer your first question, the adjustment I was making on the right side of the carb as I was facing the motor is the high speed needle. I had the linkage unhooked and was making the adjustment to the needle itself. Once the carb is dialed in as close as I can get it, I replace the linkage and set the dial in the middle of its travel to allow for fine adjustments later.

    Regarding your second question, the gaskets you are needing are called exhaust cover gaskets. One goes between the block and the baffle plate. The other goes between the baffle plate and the exhaust cover. I’m glad you didn’t end up with any broken fasteners when you removed the cover. For future, I never remove that cover unless it is completely necessary. You can do what you like with that advice, but I leave them alone 99% of the time. A bit of carbon in there isn’t going to hurt anything. There is too much likelihood of twisting off fasteners and gaskets are getting harder to find for these motors. There are still some available and you should be able to get replacements though.

    Try member Dan Gano for the exhaust cover gaskets. His email is ganotech at mchsi dot com. Dan is excellent to work with. He’s does his sales old school. You contact him and let him know what you need, he gives you the cost, you mail him a check and he’ll send you your parts after he gets the check. There may be a few other sources for this gaskets but Dan would be my first go to.

    I understand the other projects limiting motor time. I’d have done this one in a day or two instead of 3 weeks if I had the time. I’ll be glad to get the gearcase resealed and get this one back together again. I have a few more I need to get through this winter. I’ll be looking forward to your video. Feel free to ask any other questions you may have. I’m nearly through with this one so I should be able to answer them.
    -Ben

    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 65 total)

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