Home Forum Ask A Member 1952 Johnson Seahorse qd 13

Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 65 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #51008
    outbdnut2
    Participant

      US Member

      That donut gasket is part number 73 in Gary’s exploded view of the carb. It fits over the end of part #28 and interfaces with the bottom of the carb bowl and when the bowl is screwed on it compresses this donut some. When I bought my QD-13, somebody had taken the carb apart and put it back together without that part – same symptoms you are having. I’ve seen this problem on several OMC carbs on a different HP motors from the mid to late 1950s, and into the 1960s.
      Dave

      #51010
      fisherman6
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        The points cam has some definite wear on it, but it should still work OK. I may keep my eye out for a replacement.

        The rebuilt magneto is back on, the carb is clean with a new O ring for the low speed needle, and a new nozzle gasket between the bowl and the nozzle boss. The flywheel is back on and I have spark on both wires now. 😀

        Hopefully I’ll be able to try to start it this weekend.
        -Ben

        OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

        #51017
        garry-in-michigan
        Participant

          Lifetime Member

          That cam ware is from the little bits of hard coil plastic when running with cracked coils. . . 😉

          #51035
          fisherman6
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years

            That’s good info Garry. Someone must have changedone the old cracked ones out many moons ago, or at least changedo them out with old used coils. It had brown coils in it they tested at about 3.5Kohms on the secondary. I put brand new Prufrex coils in it.
            -Ben

            OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

            #51036
            fisherman6
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              Update: IT’S ALIVE!!! 😀 I got it all put back together this afternoon, filled the test barrel and put the test wheel of it. Clamped it to the barrel, primed the fuel system and gave it a single tug. It fired up and ran in one pull. Time to pull the gearcase for a reseal. It’s a runner. I made a video and I’ll try to get it uploaded later. I’ll post a link once it up. Can’t wait to try it on the boat! :mrgreen:
              -Ben

              OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

              #51042
              david-bartlett
              Participant

                Ben,

                Another one saved!

                #51043
                fisherman6
                Participant

                  US Member - 2 Years

                  Yessir! That’s a great feeling. This one should make for a bit of fun conversation at the boat launch.

                  Here’s a link to the video.

                  https://youtu.be/Rf00GWsQFbQ

                  I did a little more tuning after it warmed up a bit more and it is running pretty well now. Looking forward to getting this thing dialed in on the boat. Come on spring!! I do still have lots of winter projects though. 🙄
                  -Ben

                  OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

                  #51052
                  fisherman6
                  Participant

                    US Member - 2 Years

                    So I got the old girl running again. Now on to the water pump and gearcase…

                    What is the proper way to disconnect the sift rod and allow the lower unit to drop? This motor has the cover on the trailing side of the exhaust housing that comes off. When that is removed the cast connector is exposed. It looks like the double nuts on the bottom of the connector should come off but they are not really accessible. Any help here would be appreciated.
                    -Ben

                    OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

                    #51066
                    fisherman6
                    Participant

                      US Member - 2 Years

                      I got the lower unit removal figured out. Need to remove bother rear sections of the exhaust housing from the powerhead down to unhook the shift rod from the linkage. It then needs to be unscrewed from the cast connector and the lower unit can be dropped.
                      -Ben

                      OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

                      #51072
                      jerry-ahrens
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Looks like a good runner Ben! I have one like yours, that no one wanted at one of our swap meets. You may just inspire me to tackle it and get it running. What was the first year that these motors went away from the old style coils to the universal magneto? Just curious what mine has. Good job on getting her to run again!

                      Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 65 total)
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.