why not fix it yourself and get a new hobby going see link on restoring a 15 “similar” to yours . which 15hp do you have (year and model)

lots of help here on the AOMCI ask a member site to help out

Before your get to involved$$$ the usual practice is to do a pressure test on the cyl…..and a quick check of the mechanical (seized ? shifts ok …? anything serious broken etc..

you will need coils, points, condensers, impeller …the usual stuff if they are original or defective

Chineese coils are cheap and work pretty good

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-5-40HP-Outboard-Engines-Ignition-Coil-For-OMC-Johnson-Evinrude-584477-582995-/203247943567?hash=item2f52857f8f

https://www.aomci.org/forums/forum/ask-a-member-d1/

https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/index6.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be

good motor nice project 🙂 don’t be scared to get the fingers greasy . Caution: fixing oldies is habit forming, infectious and… they double every year or two. 🙂

• This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by crosbyman.

Old Ed wrote:

Evinrude model#

15012-40850

What does the second ser of numbers mean?

I read that the first number means HP and year built…

The numbers after the 15 are not the year, unless by coincidence. Your 15012 is a 1954. The model came out in 1953, and serial numbers above 19000 were 1954s. The 40850 is the serial number.

Those 15s are nice motors, I just got my 3rd one and hope to make two good ones out of the three.

Editing this post to say Frank beat me to it on this info by 2 minutes!… sorry to repeat the answer!
Dave

• This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by outbdnut2.

It is hard for me to recommend doing the work yourself, only you can decide if you are up to the task.
Like others have said, begin with a compression test…I’m guessing you should see about 100PSI on both cylinders.
Next, remove the gearcase drain and vent screws to examine the gear lube. Raw water or milky colored lube spells trouble, no or very little lube draining out spells big trouble. In either case, the gearcase will need to be pressure tested to pinpoint leakage issues. The gearcase will have to be disassembled to replace faulty seals/orings. The water pump impeller should be replaced at this time also.
Generally speaking, the ignition and fuel systems will need to be inspected and overhauled. Do you have the two line pressure tank for the engine? If so, inspect it inside, it isn’t much good if rusted or fouled inside.
Doing this work isn’t terribly difficult if you have had some experience working on outboards, unless the engine has been used in salt water. Trying to remove rusted fasteners can be a real issue.
If you decide to have a shop do the work, you will need to look for an older shop facility with techs that have had experience with an older engine like this. Inexperienced techs and high shop rates often times lead to work done improperly.
Finally, it looks like someone has stripped the paint off this engine. Only you can decide if you want it refinished cosmetically. A cosmetic overhaul is a big expense for sure.
Please respond with specific questions you may have, this is a great engine that runs very nicely….