Home Forum Ask A Member 1955 Evinrude 25hp sparker/slow crank question

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  • #294070
    MHarrington
    Participant

      US Junior Member

      I have a 1955 Evinrude 25hp that I got back in august, it was stuck tight I got it free somehow.  I got it running semi-good, but I had other projects to get done before this.  It is getting up there on the list for a restoration now, and I am trying to get it started again but I can’t get it to turn fast enough to start.  I have burned up a 40hp starter now trying and I have put my newer 35hp starter on it and that motor had 135psi compression on both cylinders this 25hp has 100psi compression.  I have checked my electrical conection, battery voltage, and wires.  They all look good but still low cranking.  Any ideas on what can cause this?

      #294071
      wedgie
      Participant

        I suspect cracked coils. Did you remove the flywheel?

        #294075
        MHarrington
        Participant

          US Junior Member

          Yes, while back and they still look good looking through the inspection hole.  It also can’t be a lower unit issue because I was in the lower and cleaned it and resealed.  I also don’t think the coils screws have loosened and let the coils slide up because it doesn’t sound like the coils are hitting the magnets, I have taken the plugs out and pulled it I don’t feel any binding up or anything that would feel like it was hitting a magnet, or a loose/broken connecting rod.

          #294076
          stanley
          Participant

            US Member

            Did you replace condensers?

            #294077
            crosbyman
            Participant

              Canada Member

              ?? why would condensers make the engine  physically hard to turn over with a  starter  ?

              how about dropping that LU  to see if the  problem is stricly top side or something down under  is binding ?

              I have checked my electrical connection, battery voltage, and wires.  They all look good but still low cranking

              what is the battery voltage at the starter during hard cranking ?

              have all connections been polished up shiny and secured  to allow  max current flow

              how does the starter react when powered directly of the battery….. bypassing all electrical connections ?

              Battery fully charged up ?

               

               

              Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

              #294082
              necks
              Participant

                US Member

                I guess I would check, take both spark plugs out, grab flywheel & try turning flywheel back and forth & around. If the flywheel turns motor over with still lots of resistance, shoot a little oil into the cylinders to see if that helps, look at prop to see if you are turning lower unit prop around at the same time, or before starting make sure lower unit is in neutral. If still turns over hard I would look for a mouse nest under or near flywheel that is causing the problem. You mentioned you burned out a 40 & a 35hp starter, did the ring gear match the gear off of the 25hp. I think the starter on the 1955 25hp is a 6 volt battery, are those other starters 12 volt. If all checks out the other problem is to check coil lamination for loose bolts or rubbing on flywheel. Gene.

                #294096
                MHarrington
                Participant

                  US Junior Member

                  Neck, I haven’t had any issues with the starter gear and ring gear binging or anything like that, so I am just going to say they are the same.  I put some oil in the cylinders before I let it set and before I tried to crank it over, it was in gear I took it out and no change. It spins over just fine with the plugs out and with the compression checker still pretty good (on 1 cylinder nothing in the other) also nothing feels to be binding.

                  Crosbyman, the battery charger says the battery is fully charged I checked it, checked out to be good, there was no electrical on it when I got it someone had removed all trace of the electric start not even a cut wire left, I know it would have been electric start because the model number is that of an electric start model Evinrude.  So for electrical I have my jumper cables going from my battery to my starter solenoid I had laying around and grounded to the block, and a push button switch to work the solenoid and I have 2 battery wires bolted and nutted to gather from the starter solenoid to the starter I cleaned them both till I saw a shine (I tightened them pretty good).  The 35hp starter I am using should be 12v it is from the 970s or early 1980s not too sure I got it with a couple motors as an extra.  If it spins good with the plugs out, I wouldn’t think there would be any binding in the lower unit, I also changed the oil in the lower because I was running some cleaning stuff the get all the extra grease turned oil I missed.  The only thing I haven’t checked is the voltage to the starter when cranking.

                  #294097
                  billy-j
                  Participant

                    US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                    If it was stuck and you unstuck it, and it is getting stuck again. Sounds like a sick motor that you did a quick and dirty fix that did not hold. Usually when a motor seizes up the piston, rings or rust in bore is where it seizes. Even if you get the motor to turn does not mean everything is good. If you drop the lower unit like it was mentioned in a previous post and it does not spin normal you probably do have issues with the power head internally. But you probably realize that yourself you just are not ready to admit it. To burn up a starter takes a lot of work and effort. I am not trying to be mean to you but that is just the way it is.

                    #294100
                    MHarrington
                    Participant

                      US Junior Member

                      But I went out to check what I was getting voltage wise to the starter just now and it spun over with the starter just fine, at the speed it did before I put it up for a couple months.  So, I removed the multimeter and back to being really slow.  I just removed the lower, but I need to let my battery charge.  The reading I got from the multimeter said 6.87v or so but then the multimeter went blank when it was still cranking so I don’t know how accurate that was, I tried taking a jumper cable straight to the starter and still slow.

                      I haven’t thought about that billy-j, thought I did a pretty good job when I unstuck it, I took a hone to the cylinder walls, and took a brush and a mix of lube and rust remover to the pistons and freed the rings, was there something I missed, if so please advise me so I can fix it and get this thing running again.  I put all new gaskets on it, weather I made some or bought some.  The only thing I can think I did wrong was over torqued a connecting rod cap or maybe the block halves.

                      #294101
                      Sam M.
                      Participant

                        Canada Junior Member

                        In theory, over torquing the connecting rod endcaps would reduce the gap between the connecting rod bearing/bushing and the crankshaft so things would be tighter to turn over.  Not sure how much difference that would actually make, but maybe worth retorquing.  Also, if following necks’ suggestion of rocking the flywheel back and forth, only do so with the lower unit removed so you don’t risk flipping the impeller vanes around, but you probably know that already. 😄 I like the point necks brought up about 6V. or 12V..  Probably worth researching.

                        Another thing, can your battery start other motors ok?  The charger might think it is fully charged but perhaps something’s the matter with the battery internally.

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