Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1955 Evinrude 25hp sparker/slow crank question
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fleetwin.
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February 14, 2025 at 5:53 am #294102
Yes, it started a 35hp not even a month ago just fine and is starting to another one now. The only thing that makes me now think the rod caps are over torqued is the fact that the motor was spinning over just fine before I let it sit for a couple months. I removed the lower last night and there was still no difference. I had a thought though that maybe I didn’t run it long enough for all my engine assembly lube to burned off or something and when I let it sit it got hardened like grease. Not too hard to where you can’t spin the engine but just enough to make a difference. I mixed up some sae30 oil because I was out of atf and thinned it with acetone and I poured it down into the block to see if that would make my engine assembly lube become lubricant again. I haven’t heard of this happening before with the engine assembly lube I use but I thought it would be worth a try. I used Permatex ultra slick engine assembly lube, I always have, I lube it, I have never heard of it getting hard though. I also checked the battery voltage it was around 12.90v (at the battery).
February 14, 2025 at 9:51 am #2941156.87 volts while cranking? That is an issue . I am assuming you are using a 12 volt battery of ample capacity to crank this engine and that you are using a 12 volt starter from a newer engine. Have you had the battery load tested? Have you checked each cell with a hydrometer (if it isn’t a sealed battery)? You might try making up new battery cables and wiring the starter directly to the battery to rule out junction box/solenoid/cable issues. Forgive me if these suggestions have already been mentioned and tried, quickly read over the thread just now.
February 14, 2025 at 10:49 am #294118If you still have the 6 Volt starter that came with the motor, and it works, put it back on. When these motors (and also old 6 volt cars) get converted to 12 volts, the starter does not need to be changed. It will not draw twice the current on 12 volts because of the complex inductance of the spinning starter that does not follow Ohm’s law, but it will spin considerably faster, but running 6 volt starters on 12 should not hurt them. Converting from 6 to 12 only needs a 12 volt solenoid and a 12 volt choke actuator. The 6 volt starter running on 12 volts should spin it considerably faster. OK – all that being said, it sounds like you still have something in the motor that is rubbing, binding, or otherwise causing it to crank hard. If you are runnin ‘ 12 volt starters on 6 Volts, they will drag and overheat and can self-destruct. Try pulling the lower unit and driveshaft off and see if the starter spins it a lot faster – if so, look to the lower for your problem.
Dave
February 14, 2025 at 1:44 pm #294133It sounds like you had pistons out, cleaned up cylinder, freed up rings, the next thing I would do is take engine off the lower unit, take spark plugs off, check by hand if it goes into gear F-N-R, if that check’s out o-k, back to engine, with spark plugs removed, put one hand on flywheel, the other hand on PTO end, turn by hand at least 3 turns, checks o-k, install spark plugs, if that checks o-k, if not, get a 2×4 & dead blow hammer, hold 2×4 on PTO end of crank & tap fairly hard once or twice, if crankcase is not quite lined up yet, take flywheel off, & check other adjustments.
You mentioned you cleaned and scraped carbon off pistons & cylinder. Did you happen to use 847 grease on rod ends or elseware, that grease gets hard pretty fast, would make moving parts move hard. Next, did you make sure the pistons & rings were installed in correct cylinder & rod end marks lined up. Do you have a inch pound torque wrench, good tool for outboards. Gene.
February 14, 2025 at 2:45 pm #294134My battery was starting other motors just fine, it’s from 9/24 so pretty new. I removed the lower last night and tried it still no change. But before I called it a day, I had a thought. When you go through an engine and use engine assembly lube (as you should) and you let it sit I have heard and seen times where the lube/grease they used will harden and make the engine hard to turn or not turn at all. I am out of aft at the moment, so I mixed up some sae30, acetone, and some penetrating oil and I poured it down the carb right into the block. and I have let it sit to try and turn the engine assembly lube I used back into lube if that was the case. I haven’t heard of that happening to the lube I use but it is worth a try, I use Permatex ultra slick engine assembly lube. I thought I ran it long enough to break it down/run it through and replace it with 2 stoke mix but I might not have.
I just went out to see if that fixed it and it works perfect, I have tried it 5 or so times now and turns over better than ever!
February 14, 2025 at 8:09 pm #294141Just wondered if the room temperature explains the lube thickening.
February 14, 2025 at 8:31 pm #294142I removed the lower last night and there was no difference. I had a thought though, I have heard/seen engine assembly lube/grease if you let it sit the motor will become hard to turn or not turn at all. I mixed some sae30, and acetone because I was out of atf and poured it down the carburetor into the engine block, to try and turn the lube back into lube if it had hardened. I thought I ran it long enough to burn/run it all out and replaced with 2 stoke but maybe not. I let it sit till this afternoon when I tried it again and it work great. Spins fine (with both spark plugs in) I put some gas in the carb bowl and in the cylinder and it started right up and ran nice and smooth, besides smoking from the left-over acetone and sae30 mix.
I don’t know if anyone else has been having this issue or not, but this is the 3rd or 4th time, I have posted this reply in the last ~24hrs, I am not seeing it on my end. Is it actually posting and I am not seeing it or is it not actually getting sent out? I have waited until it says it has been posted and will leave the computer on for a minute or 2 after it says it has been posted then I turn off the computer. But I still don’t see it.
February 14, 2025 at 8:39 pm #294143I’ve seen it twice.
February 17, 2025 at 6:18 pm #294177My battery was starting other motors just fine, it’s from 9/24 so pretty new. I removed the lower last night and tried it still no change. But before I called it a day, I had a thought. When you go through an engine and use engine assembly lube (as you should) and you let it sit I have heard and seen times where the lube/grease they used will harden and make the engine hard to turn or not turn at all. I am out of aft at the moment, so I mixed up some sae30, acetone, and some penetrating oil and I poured it down the carb right into the block. and I have let it sit to try and turn the engine assembly lube I used back into lube if that was the case. I haven’t heard of that happening to the lube I use but it is worth a try, I use Permatex ultra slick engine assembly lube. I thought I ran it long enough to break it down/run it through and replace it with 2 stoke mix but I might not have.
I just went out to see if that fixed it and it works perfect, I have tried it 5 or so times now and turns over better than ever!
OK, so it is not the gearcase. You have run the engine already, so any grease/installation lube would have melted off by now.
Once again, you mentioned a very low voltage reading while cranking. Are you using a 6 or 12volt battery/starter? If you are using a 12 volt battery/battery, there is an issue somewhere in the electrical/cranking system
PS: The battery may be “OK” but has inadequate capacity/cold cranking amps to power your starter…Again, always best to start at the beginning, check the battery…
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