OK, sounds like you are going to need another carburetor, at least the upper body. There is nothing you can do to repair the carb body casting if the ears for the float pin are broken….So, the stuck inlet needle seat is an issue you won’t have to worry about. But, you are correct about the throttle/choke shafts, you should not attempt to pull the choke or throttle butterflies of of the shafts…There is no need to do this anyway. A good soaking or ultrasonic cleaning will take care of any corrosion/dried grease.
So tell us everything you plan to do with this engine.
Usually, these engines need the following:
Ignition plate rebuild- new wires, coils, points and condensers
Clean and rebuild carb, replace fuel/air hoses
Remove powerhead, then remove gearcase….Drain and inspect gear lube to determine whether or not it needs to be resealed….Inspect impeller housing and SS plate, replace impeller…
If the gearcase has water in it, or the lube is milky, you will need to pressure test to determine exactly what is leaking. Once the leak area is determined, then the gearcase can be pulled apart. Once apart, it is best to replace both shaft seals, shift rod oring, prop shaft bushing oring, and upper bushing/seal cover gasket. You will need to inspect the seal surfaces on the shafts also. Once the unit is back together, you will need to pressure test to ensure it is sealed properly….Even the slightest leak is unacceptable.
So, post pictures of the parts you have and intend to install. Let us know if you plan to actually rebuild the powerhead, like I say, this is usually not necessary, but pulling the head to have a look inside is a good idea. Did you do a compression test before began?
There are just too many details to post here, but we will try to get you a link to a decent service manual…
I will let someone else advise about repainting, I have zero talent in that area….

OK, looks like you have everything you will need most likely. I didn’t see the new plug terminals: 581027, but you have plenty of plug wire for sure. What brand of impeller is that? I recommend using the OEM impeller, too many reports of poor pump performance with the aftermarket impellers.
You may not need the gearcase seal kit, have you drained the gear lube? Please do not remove that small phillips screw in the skeg, the shift linkage will fall apart inside…
Normal gear lube will probably appear dark/black in color which is normal for the older lubes that were used back then…
Milky colored gear lube means trouble
Any signs of raw water draining from the gearcase spells trouble also
Perhaps I have misunderstood the condition you describe on your carb body. You make it sound like the hinge pin holes for the float are either cracked or actually broken…Once again, there is no way to reliably repair this, you will need to find a used carb or upper body, there are plenty of these around… Post a picture of the carb body if you think I have misunderstood what you described.
Finally, I don’t recommend pulling that powerhead apart…There is no need to if compression numbers were even. These engines usually never got enough hours on them to be worn out…The powerheads were only damaged by overheat, lack of correct fuel/oil mix, or water/rust.
Finally, those 55 models had kind of an automatic lock that held the engine down in reverse…The engine should tilt up in forward or reverse gear. There is a little latch that catches on the tilt angle rod on the bottom of the stern brackets…It will be easy to see if you just tip the engine upside down on the floor. You will be able to pop the lock off the tilt rod with a screwdriver… Once the powerhead and gearcase are off, you can get back to this to see why it doesn’t work… The only other thing I can think of is that the transom bracket tilting bolt is too tight. Try loosening the nut on the top right side of the transom bracket. This is a friction fit that is tightened enough so the engine will stay tilted up…

OK, well that carb body has had in, no good, no way to save it…Finding another carb should be easy and not expensive.
Like I said, I don’t recommend using those aftermarket impellers, but that is up to you…
Looks like you pulled off the intake manifold, so you may want to pull the reeds off to inspect and have a look at the crank/rods, then replace the intake gaskets..Don’t mix them up, the inner gasket is different from the outer gasket…Install the gaskets dry, no sealer of any kind.
These engines don’t have alot of compression, do you remember what the readings were? Somewhere between 70-85PSI is normal for these engines. I can’t tell much about the cylinder condition from your pictures, but you may want to soak the cylinders with engine tuner just in case the rings are a little stuck. Again, I do not recommend pulling this powerhead apart unless you find evidence of damage on the cylinder walls such as aluminum scuffing on the walls or deep scores. I would use a little fine emery to clean up the glaze on the walls, this will help the rings seal. Yes, this is a primitive procedure, but we are not working on an aircraft or rocket engine here. Rough up the walls a bit, then clean out the residue with carb cleaner and recoat the cylinders with two stroke oil. Doing this might help get a better look at cylinder condition also.
You will need a new head gasket, you will want to check the surfaces to ensure they are flat, you may have to resurface the cylinder head mating surfaces if it is warped. You will want to clean out with block threads with a tap, and the bolts with a wire wheel before reinstalling the head. Coat both sides of the new head gasket and head bolt threads with OMC gasket sealer. The powerhead does not appear to have been overheated by the look of the paint.
Just because nothing is leaking out of the gearcase does not mean it doesn’t have a leak…Remove both of those large fill/drain screws from the gearcase and let it drain into a clean pan. Look for signs of water and report back…You will need to remove that powerhead from the exhaust housing in order to remove the gearcase and service the water pump. The shift linkage connects directly underneath the powerhead.
Take some time to review your manual’s procedures for the work you intend to do…Get back to us when you have more questions…
PS- Your pictures show the gear shift in the reverse position…The tilt lock is engaged in reverse so you won’t be able to tilt it up…Try shifting into forward gear, perhaps that is all that is preventing you from being able to tilt the engine up…

• This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by fleetwin.