Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1955 Johnson CD-12 Clutch Spring
- This topic has 15 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 6 months, 3 weeks ago by Buccaneer.
-
AuthorPosts
-
May 1, 2024 at 6:35 pm #287489
Now that I got the motor 90% back together again,
I’m wishing I had pulled the cover below the waterpump
impeller to see if the clutch spring has elongated. š
When I got it, it hadn’t been run in years, and thought
perhaps that’s why it felt a little bit stiff pulling it over.
I didn’t think too much about it while pulling it over
testing compression, etc.After I got the refurbished magneto back on and tested
for spark, I “re-noticed” that it seems a little stiff.
I was hoping not to open up the gear case seeing how
it wasn’t leaking.
I suppose there’s about “zero” chance of pulling the stub
shaft out of the gearcase, and getting it back in place
without opening up the gearcase???????
I see in the parts diagram that there’s a woodruff key
holding the gear on the driveshaft, but not sure if
the shaft would pull through the bushing with the key on?It’s been a while since I worked on one of these new-fangled
Johnsons. …….. Thoughts?
Thanks.Prepare to be boarded!
May 1, 2024 at 8:37 pm #287492Ya Buc that shock absorber should pull right out.Ā It might be tricky getting it back in.Ā Ā You still gotta pull the power head again.Ā I learned the hard way when I take one of these kickers LU apart now I always push the shock absorber together and tack weld it.Ā After pulling the power head off three times I learned!Ā Ā When that absorber spins and gets longer sometimes the lower water pump housing cracks.
dale
May 1, 2024 at 8:39 pm #287493bite the bulletĀ start all over againĀ Ā .. I went nuts trying to reseal my 5.5hp gearcaseĀ I ended upĀ Ā spot welding the stupid thingĀ 6”and 11/16 if I recall…
after the weld jobĀ … reseal it allĀ Ā Ā no more friction on the lower pump plate
pressure tested and vacumĀ were ok
Joining AOMCI has priviledges š
May 1, 2024 at 9:59 pm #287497I should be able to undo the six bolts holding the powerhead on,
and the one bolt from the fuel hose connector, and pull the
powerhead.
The bearing housing plate under the impeller plate wasn’t
“popped up” when I removed the impeller housing bolts,
acting like the spring was sprung, but perhaps gasket
sealant was holding it down.
Guess I might as well bite the bullet……. won’t take long to
find out if the spring has been causing havoc.
Thanks.Prepare to be boarded!
May 2, 2024 at 7:52 am #287499I am pretty certainĀ mine broke whenĀ it slipped out of the GC and hit the cement floor…seems that way anyway
upon reassembly I had a darn of a time to even manually rotateĀ the drive shaft and did not think much of itĀ thinking it was just the new impeller holding things up.
pressure testingĀ failed
Off with the PH again…..removing the impeller base plate showedĀ undersideĀ circular wear marksĀ confirming the rubbing of the streched clucth .
easy enought to resize……Ā I had a friend spot weld itĀ 4 timesĀ at 90deg.Ā andĀ trimmed it on the grinder.
Joining AOMCI has priviledges š
May 2, 2024 at 10:44 am #287508It took less than 15 minutes to get the stub shaft out
this morning. I found absolutely no sign of the shaft
rubbing on the seal plate, and the length of the
shaft was just a hair over 6-5/8″.For kicks, I pulled the shaft out and welded up the
spring casing.
I got lucky and was able to re-install the stub shaft
without pulling apart the gearcase……..
but, even though I ground down the welds some,
one of them was rubbing on the housing. šPulled the shaft back out, chucked it in the lathe this
time, and machined off some of the weld.
Once again I got lucky and got the shaft back into
the gearcase…….. But, after I reinstalled the waterĀ pump
assembly, it seems to turn too hard, at least to me.
I loosened up the four pump housing screws a ways,
and it turns okay.I had ordered an 18-3001 impeller, but found a new “generic”
one in my box of goodies, with no numbers, but I had labeled
for Gale 5 hp and TN Johnsons.
I just looked up impellers for those in my notes, and it says
they take the same impeller.Hence….. I’m not sure if………
The “cheapie” impeller is out of specs, or I’m just being
paranoid about the motor turning over too hard.
The new one is suppose to come in two days, and I’m not
sure if it will be any better.I don’t relish pulling the powerhead a third time, so perhaps
I’ll wait for the ordered impeller to arrive, and see if that’s
any “looser”.Too bad I wasn’t a welder by trade!
Prepare to be boarded!
May 3, 2024 at 8:14 pm #287551I don’t know if you’ve taken this in to account, but this motor has the older starter that is harder to pull over.
May 3, 2024 at 9:44 pm #287552I don’t know if you’ve taken this in to account, but this motor has the older starter that is harder to pull over.
I thought about that, but the rewind’s wire core rope is toast,
so I’ve only been pulling it via rope on the flywheel.
Even turning over the motor with a box end wrench seemed
pretty stiff.
Different impeller coming tomorrow, and as long as it doesn’t
make it pull over stiffer, I’m going with it…….. maybe it will
loosen up after it wears in a little!Prepare to be boarded!
May 4, 2024 at 7:43 am #287553just as a testĀ try an extra gasket under the pump housing… to see if a few thousandsĀ of spacing helps
with greasedĀ impellerĀ fins no reason not to turn smooth
Joining AOMCI has priviledges š
May 4, 2024 at 9:18 am #287557just as a testĀ try an extra gasket under the pump housing… to see if a few thousandsĀ of spacing helps
with greasedĀ impellerĀ fins no reason not to turn smooth
I believe a new impeller is suppose to arrive today.
I’ll mic the widths of the two and see if the new
on is any thinner.Good idea about the gasket. Of course, I could always
touch the impeller on the belt sander, but uniformity
might be “iffy”.
I know the gasket would help, as when I loosed up the
four pump cover screws, the driveshaft turned more
reasonably, in my opinion.Prepare to be boarded!
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.