Home Forum Ask A Member 1955 Johnson CD-12 Clutch Spring

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  • #287489
    Buccaneer
    Participant

      US Member

      Now that I got the motor 90% back together again,
      I’m wishing I had pulled the cover below the waterpump
      impeller to see if the clutch spring has elongated. šŸ™
      When I got it, it hadn’t been run in years, and thought
      perhaps that’s why it felt a little bit stiff pulling it over.
      I didn’t think too much about it while pulling it over
      testing compression, etc.

      After I got the refurbished magneto back on and tested
      for spark, I “re-noticed” that it seems a little stiff.
      I was hoping not to open up the gear case seeing how
      it wasn’t leaking.
      I suppose there’s about “zero” chance of pulling the stub
      shaft out of the gearcase, and getting it back in place
      without opening up the gearcase???????
      I see in the parts diagram that there’s a woodruff key
      holding the gear on the driveshaft, but not sure if
      the shaft would pull through the bushing with the key on?

      It’s been a while since I worked on one of these new-fangled
      Johnsons. …….. Thoughts?
      Thanks.

      DSCN9535-1

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      #287492
      labrador-guy
      Participant

        US Member

        Ya Buc that shock absorber should pull right out.Ā  It might be tricky getting it back in.Ā Ā  You still gotta pull the power head again.Ā  I learned the hard way when I take one of these kickers LU apart now I always push the shock absorber together and tack weld it.Ā  After pulling the power head off three times I learned!Ā Ā  When that absorber spins and gets longer sometimes the lower water pump housing cracks.

        dale

        #287493
        crosbyman
        Participant

          Canada Member - 2 Years

          bite the bulletĀ  start all over againĀ  Ā  .. I went nuts trying to reseal my 5.5hp gearcaseĀ  I ended upĀ  Ā spot welding the stupid thingĀ  6”and 11/16 if I recall…

          after the weld jobĀ  … reseal it allĀ  Ā  Ā  no more friction on the lower pump plate

          pressure tested and vacumĀ  were ok

           

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          #287497
          Buccaneer
          Participant

            US Member

            I should be able to undo the six bolts holding the powerhead on,
            and the one bolt from the fuel hose connector, and pull the
            powerhead.
            The bearing housing plate under the impeller plate wasn’t
            “popped up” when I removed the impeller housing bolts,
            acting like the spring was sprung, but perhaps gasket
            sealant was holding it down.
            Guess I might as well bite the bullet……. won’t take long to
            find out if the spring has been causing havoc.
            Thanks.

            Prepare to be boarded!

            #287499
            crosbyman
            Participant

              Canada Member - 2 Years

              I am pretty certainĀ  mine broke whenĀ  it slipped out of the GC and hit the cement floor…seems that way anyway

              upon reassembly I had a darn of a time to even manually rotateĀ  the drive shaft and did not think much of itĀ  thinking it was just the new impeller holding things up.

              pressure testingĀ  failed

              Off with the PH again…..removing the impeller base plate showedĀ  undersideĀ  circular wear marksĀ  confirming the rubbing of the streched clucth .

              easy enought to resize……Ā  I had a friend spot weld itĀ  4 timesĀ  at 90deg.Ā  andĀ  trimmed it on the grinder.

               

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              #287508
              Buccaneer
              Participant

                US Member

                It took less than 15 minutes to get the stub shaft out
                this morning. I found absolutely no sign of the shaft
                rubbing on the seal plate, and the length of the
                shaft was just a hair over 6-5/8″.

                For kicks, I pulled the shaft out and welded up the
                spring casing.
                I got lucky and was able to re-install the stub shaft
                without pulling apart the gearcase……..
                but, even though I ground down the welds some,
                one of them was rubbing on the housing. šŸ™

                Pulled the shaft back out, chucked it in the lathe this
                time, and machined off some of the weld.
                Once again I got lucky and got the shaft back into
                the gearcase…….. But, after I reinstalled the waterĀ  pump
                assembly, it seems to turn too hard, at least to me.
                I loosened up the four pump housing screws a ways,
                and it turns okay.

                I had ordered an 18-3001 impeller, but found a new “generic”
                one in my box of goodies, with no numbers, but I had labeled
                for Gale 5 hp and TN Johnsons.
                I just looked up impellers for those in my notes, and it says
                they take the same impeller.

                Hence….. I’m not sure if………
                The “cheapie” impeller is out of specs, or I’m just being
                paranoid about the motor turning over too hard.
                The new one is suppose to come in two days, and I’m not
                sure if it will be any better.

                I don’t relish pulling the powerhead a third time, so perhaps
                I’ll wait for the ordered impeller to arrive, and see if that’s
                any “looser”.

                DSCN9540

                DSCN9542

                Too bad I wasn’t a welder by trade!

                DSCN9543

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                #287551
                wedgie
                Participant

                  I don’t know if you’ve taken this in to account, but this motor has the older starter that is harder to pull over.

                  #287552
                  Buccaneer
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    I don’t know if you’ve taken this in to account, but this motor has the older starter that is harder to pull over.

                    I thought about that, but the rewind’s wire core rope is toast,
                    so I’ve only been pulling it via rope on the flywheel.
                    Even turning over the motor with a box end wrench seemed
                    pretty stiff.
                    Different impeller coming tomorrow, and as long as it doesn’t
                    make it pull over stiffer, I’m going with it…….. maybe it will
                    loosen up after it wears in a little!

                     

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                    #287553
                    crosbyman
                    Participant

                      Canada Member - 2 Years

                      just as a testĀ  try an extra gasket under the pump housing… to see if a few thousandsĀ  of spacing helps

                      with greasedĀ  impellerĀ  fins no reason not to turn smooth

                       

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                      #287557
                      Buccaneer
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        just as a testĀ  try an extra gasket under the pump housing… to see if a few thousandsĀ  of spacing helps

                        with greasedĀ  impellerĀ  fins no reason not to turn smooth

                         

                        I believe a new impeller is suppose to arrive today.
                        I’ll mic the widths of the two and see if the new
                        on is any thinner.

                        Good idea about the gasket. Of course, I could always
                        touch the impeller on the belt sander, but uniformity
                        might be “iffy”.
                        I know the gasket would help, as when I loosed up the
                        four pump cover screws, the driveshaft turned more
                        reasonably, in my opinion.

                        Prepare to be boarded!

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