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I followed the directions in the service data sheet.
Including the part about turning the prop.
When I rotate the shift lever hub clock wise and secure-I get forward.
When I rotate the shift lever hub counter clock wise and secure-I get reverse.
When I put the shift lever hub in the middle I get reverse.
Your thoughts?
Service manual speaks of a perfect world. In the real world, wear happens and it is impossible to get it 100% right. Worst wear happens in the hole in the exhaust housing that the shift shaft passes through as suggested by dave. Grab hold of the shifter handle and see if you can rock it up and down. If you can, the lever inside the housing is also rocking up and down, reducing the up and down travel of the shift rod. I remember trying to put a bushing in the hole 60 years ago. I wasn’t as successful as I had hoped.
When you do the adjustment, favor full engagement of forward to protect the clutch dog. You may then have to go a tad “past” neutral to get it out of reverse, then go back to neutral position.
Just so you guys know-
1.I do not have power head off
2.I replaced the #26 o-ring on the shift shaft when I did have the power head off.
Dave
I detached the brass connector that connects the upper and lower shift rod.
The brass connector is still on the upper shift rod.
I held the brass connector with a pair of needle nose pliers and moved the shift handle back and forth. In my opinion there is no much play at all.
Frank
I grabbed the shift handle and wiggled it up and down and right to left-there is about a quarter inch play in each direction.
Are you saying I may need a new exhaust housing because the hole in which the shift shaft rides in elongated?
Fleetwin
What I am saying is that I ether have forward and neutral or I have reverse and neutral.
I not sure what you mean by “preloaded”
Problem is, in the big picture of things, there are several places that wear and slop happens, the the result is the sum total of all the looseness. Yes my previous post suggested wear in the exhaust housing where the shift shaft passes through, and yes the “official” cure is a new exhaust housing. But that is such an extreme-case scenario that it is rarely done, people just living with it instead.
Let’s consider the sum total thing: Slop may occur in the following.
The shift shaft as mentioned
Loose lever #24 on the inner end of the shift shaft.
Loose screws in the shift rod connector
Worn cradle on the clutch dog (loose fit in the groove and/or loose fit between the fork and cradle)Don’t know if this is true or not, but the idea lurks in my brain that there are different lengths of the inner lever #24 and you could have the wrong one (??????)
Advice from here is try your best and if necessary “live with the very common problem”. Most of us have tried to “fix” it with poor results.
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