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Points are new. Points where set with the contact point on the dot stamped next to the word top, which seemed to be the highest point on the cam. The coil gap was set with the reproduction locating ring tool from Richard’s Outboard Tools.
Carb was completely disassembled and used this carb kit and replacement float.
I believe it was made that way. Take a close look at the ebay picture, it has that same cutout.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/260746033982
Edit, can see it on this one too.
https://greenbayprop.com/0584477-evinrude-johnson-ignition-coil-and-lamination-assy
Sure looks off though.
If you suspect a spark issue, continuity from the spark plug terminal to ground should be checked with an ohm meter. It should read what the secondary windings are of the coil. If the plug terminal is the spring clip kind, this clip can get corroded or come undone from the wires core giving a weak spark. If the plug wire wasn’t replaced, trimming a 1/4″ or so of the end of the wire and reattaching the clip after cleaning it will help cure this problem.
The points should also be polished to a mirror finish if they have been sanded. 1000 grit or finer wet n dry is good for this job. Even though the condenser is new, they can be faulty or out of spec. It looks like a 580321 cap installed and they should read around 0.20 – 0.22 uF. I recently purchased a Sierra tuneup kit off Amazon and both caps were totally out of spec and useless for my liking.
Dental floss can be used to fix the dripping fuel tap if the original packing on the shaft is damaged or missing.
Just a thought on those coils with that top edge looking like it was ground down. I’ve never seen the Prufex coils like that but I have seen a lot of the black OMC coils that way, and never knew why. Still don’t, but I’ve never had a problem with them in actual use.
Tried to start the engine again today and I think I may be on the right track now. I noticed that after the engine would start and run for less than a minute it would stall if I reved it, and in that situation the float pin stayed down for quite a few seconds until the bowl filled again. Ie: it ran out of gas due to restricted fuel supply. I took the plug out of the bottom of the carb and with the tank valve open I was only getting a steady dribble rather than a gush of gas. I assumed the filter in the tank was clogged because I hadn’t removed it before now. Surprisingly after I took it out it looked fairly clean to me. I think I read somewhere that these can look clean and still be clogged. I sprayed it with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. Not sure of other ideas, but it sure seemed like I had restricted fuel flow before. It seems pretty clear now when held up to the light (picture below)?
What sort of sealant (Teflon tape okay?) should I use to put the valve back in the tank?
Also check the fuel line itself for possible blockage.
TubsA "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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