Home Forum Ask A Member 1956 Buccaneer 3hp water pump rotor

Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 43 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #255889
    free1986
    Participant

      US Member

      Points are new.  Points where set with the contact point on the dot stamped next to the word top, which seemed to be the highest point on the cam.   The coil gap was set with the reproduction locating ring tool from Richard’s Outboard Tools.

      Carb was completely disassembled and used this carb kit and replacement float.

      https://www.dicarbparts.com/custom-carburetor-kits/783-gale-sea-king-buccaneer-goodrich-atlas-3d10-5d10-5s10-3-hp-5-hp-carb-kit.html

      https://www.dicarbparts.com/home/800-tillotson-aj-series-gale-johnson-outboard-dt37-38-lt37-38-tn15-20-25-26-tn28-ts15-20-float-kit-di-20043.html

      20220119_234732

      #255894
      free1986
      Participant

        US Member

        I believe it was made that way.  Take a close look at the ebay picture, it has that same cutout.

        https://www.ebay.com/itm/260746033982

        Edit, can see it on this one too.

        https://greenbayprop.com/0584477-evinrude-johnson-ignition-coil-and-lamination-assy

         

        Sure looks off though.

        • This reply was modified 3 years ago by free1986.
        #255916
        frankr
        Participant

          US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

          Well, they certainly fooled me with those cut-away coils.  I wonder what is the reason for the change?

          #255926
          Mumbles
          Participant

            If you suspect a spark issue, continuity from the spark plug terminal to ground should be checked with an ohm meter. It should read what the secondary windings are of the coil. If the plug terminal is the spring clip kind, this clip can get corroded or come undone from the wires core giving a weak spark.  If the plug wire wasn’t replaced, trimming a 1/4″ or so of the end of the wire and reattaching the clip after cleaning it will help cure this problem.

            The points should also be polished to a mirror finish if they have been sanded. 1000 grit or finer wet n dry is good for this job. Even though the condenser is new, they can be faulty or out of spec. It looks like a 580321 cap installed  and they should read around 0.20 – 0.22 uF.  I recently purchased a Sierra tuneup kit off Amazon and both caps were totally out of spec and useless for my liking.

            Dental floss can be used to fix the dripping fuel tap if  the original  packing on the shaft is damaged or missing.

            DSC00031

            IMGP0147
            IMGP0039
            DSC00050
            DSC00051

            #256058
            Steve D
            Participant

              Just a thought on those coils with that top edge looking like it was ground down. I’ve never seen the Prufex coils like that but I have seen a lot of the black OMC coils that way, and never knew why. Still don’t, but I’ve never had a problem with them in actual use.

              black-coils1
              black-coils2

              #256148
              free1986
              Participant

                US Member

                Tried to start the engine again today and I think I may be on the right track now.  I noticed that after the engine would start and run for less than a minute it would stall if I reved it, and in that situation the float pin stayed down for quite a few seconds until the bowl filled again.  Ie: it ran out of gas due to restricted fuel supply.  I took the plug out of the bottom of the carb and with the tank valve open I was only getting a steady dribble rather than a gush of gas.  I assumed the filter in the tank was clogged because I hadn’t removed it before now.  Surprisingly after I took it out it looked fairly clean to me.  I think I read somewhere that these can look clean and still be clogged.  I sprayed it with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressed air.  Not sure of other ideas, but it sure seemed like I had restricted fuel flow before.  It seems pretty clear now when held up to the light (picture below)?

                What sort of sealant (Teflon tape okay?) should I use to put the valve back in the tank?

                20220312_181230
                20220312_181257

                #256166
                dave-bernard
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Put it back in without sealant to see if it flows OK. If OK then use your sealant.

                  #256173
                  Tubs
                  Participant



                    Also check the fuel line itself for possible blockage.
                    Tubs

                    A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

                    #258660
                    free1986
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Back working on this again. Finally cleaned the recoil and got it working.  Hoping to take out to the lake this weekend to get the carb tuned in.  However, I was checking the engine with a noncontact thermometer and after it was idling in the barrel a few minutes, the cylinder was about 160 degrees F but the exhaust housing on the bottom of the cylinder casting was at about 225 F.  Is that okay? It seemed like it cooled down if I reved the motor up.

                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKV2JFRdJ3g

                      #258842
                      free1986
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        IT’S ALIVE!  Took my dad out on the lake today for this motors first water trip in at least 40 years.  It then promptly died at the end of the cove and refused to restart. Dad said it was just like old times with his dad when he was a kid with this engine. Except I didn’t curse at it much while pulling the rope repeatedly. I finally realized I hadn’t opened the fuel tank vent. Doh! After that the runs were a success until the starter started trying to engage with the engine running due to the handle falling down. When I cleaned the stater before the spring was kinked and it looks like I need a new/ used one. Anyone have a lead? Looks like it’s part number 41-197 which I was unable to find online. Anyone have a source? There is a meet coming up in two weeks and this is my only vintage motor close to being ready to go.

                        https://youtube.com/shorts/GltrnGveEIc?feature=share

                        https://youtube.com/shorts/DER5fSbI4p4?feature=share

                      Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 43 total)
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.