Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1956 Buccaneer 3hp water pump rotor
- This topic has 42 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 10 months ago by
tinkerman.
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March 9, 2022 at 9:07 pm #255889
Points are new. Points where set with the contact point on the dot stamped next to the word top, which seemed to be the highest point on the cam. The coil gap was set with the reproduction locating ring tool from Richard’s Outboard Tools.
Carb was completely disassembled and used this carb kit and replacement float.
March 9, 2022 at 10:01 pm #255894I believe it was made that way. Take a close look at the ebay picture, it has that same cutout.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/260746033982
Edit, can see it on this one too.
https://greenbayprop.com/0584477-evinrude-johnson-ignition-coil-and-lamination-assy
Sure looks off though.
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This reply was modified 3 years ago by
free1986.
March 10, 2022 at 7:33 am #255916Well, they certainly fooled me with those cut-away coils. I wonder what is the reason for the change?
March 10, 2022 at 10:50 am #255926If you suspect a spark issue, continuity from the spark plug terminal to ground should be checked with an ohm meter. It should read what the secondary windings are of the coil. If the plug terminal is the spring clip kind, this clip can get corroded or come undone from the wires core giving a weak spark. If the plug wire wasn’t replaced, trimming a 1/4″ or so of the end of the wire and reattaching the clip after cleaning it will help cure this problem.
The points should also be polished to a mirror finish if they have been sanded. 1000 grit or finer wet n dry is good for this job. Even though the condenser is new, they can be faulty or out of spec. It looks like a 580321 cap installed and they should read around 0.20 – 0.22 uF. I recently purchased a Sierra tuneup kit off Amazon and both caps were totally out of spec and useless for my liking.
Dental floss can be used to fix the dripping fuel tap if the original packing on the shaft is damaged or missing.
March 11, 2022 at 5:39 pm #256058March 12, 2022 at 7:39 pm #256148Tried to start the engine again today and I think I may be on the right track now. I noticed that after the engine would start and run for less than a minute it would stall if I reved it, and in that situation the float pin stayed down for quite a few seconds until the bowl filled again. Ie: it ran out of gas due to restricted fuel supply. I took the plug out of the bottom of the carb and with the tank valve open I was only getting a steady dribble rather than a gush of gas. I assumed the filter in the tank was clogged because I hadn’t removed it before now. Surprisingly after I took it out it looked fairly clean to me. I think I read somewhere that these can look clean and still be clogged. I sprayed it with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. Not sure of other ideas, but it sure seemed like I had restricted fuel flow before. It seems pretty clear now when held up to the light (picture below)?
What sort of sealant (Teflon tape okay?) should I use to put the valve back in the tank?
March 12, 2022 at 9:32 pm #256166Put it back in without sealant to see if it flows OK. If OK then use your sealant.
March 13, 2022 at 9:14 am #256173
Also check the fuel line itself for possible blockage.
TubsA "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
April 20, 2022 at 10:49 pm #258660Back working on this again. Finally cleaned the recoil and got it working. Hoping to take out to the lake this weekend to get the carb tuned in. However, I was checking the engine with a noncontact thermometer and after it was idling in the barrel a few minutes, the cylinder was about 160 degrees F but the exhaust housing on the bottom of the cylinder casting was at about 225 F. Is that okay? It seemed like it cooled down if I reved the motor up.
April 23, 2022 at 8:54 pm #258842IT’S ALIVE! Took my dad out on the lake today for this motors first water trip in at least 40 years. It then promptly died at the end of the cove and refused to restart. Dad said it was just like old times with his dad when he was a kid with this engine. Except I didn’t curse at it much while pulling the rope repeatedly. I finally realized I hadn’t opened the fuel tank vent. Doh! After that the runs were a success until the starter started trying to engage with the engine running due to the handle falling down. When I cleaned the stater before the spring was kinked and it looks like I need a new/ used one. Anyone have a lead? Looks like it’s part number 41-197 which I was unable to find online. Anyone have a source? There is a meet coming up in two weeks and this is my only vintage motor close to being ready to go.
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This reply was modified 3 years ago by
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