May 27, 2019 at 10:49 am #176112
Hello, I have a 1956 Gale 12D13 outboard that I found seized. Both connecting rods were seized to the crankshaft. There doesn’t appear
to be any noticeable damage to the rods or crankshaft. I measured the rods and crankshaft and found the connecting rod crank
ends to be .870 – .872 and are .002 out of round. The specifications call for the crankpins to be .873 – .8735 and the rod crankpin bores
.874 – .8745 Both crank pins on the crank shaft are .873 and are not out-of-round. I’m curious as to why the connecting rods are smaller than the crank shaft
crankpins. As I stated before, there is no noticeable damage to the rods or crankshaft. Why would they be undersized in relation to the crankpins?May 27, 2019 at 3:06 pm #176134
Only logical explanation is somebody filed the caps to “adjust” them. Don’t feel bad, that’s one of the first mistakes I made when I first started working on motors while still in high school. Part if the learning process.
You can cut some shims from brass shim stock to salvage the rods. If you can find somebody to sell you some shim stock without giving you a stare like you are stupid or something.
May 27, 2019 at 4:12 pm #176139
- This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by frankr.
Never gave that a thought. I’m old enough to know what shim stock is 🙂 I have some sitting around here someplace. Thank you!
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 104May 27, 2019 at 11:55 pm #176157
Might be easier to hone the rod bores that little bit? Just a suggestion. Might make them rounder again too.
Dan in TNMay 28, 2019 at 7:37 am #176167
Nope, absolutely not. I’m sure Dan knows this but hasn’t thought about it. Those rods are silver plated and the silver is the bearing. Hone it out and the bearing is gone.
Topics: 30May 28, 2019 at 8:47 am #176169
Earlier rods had a cast in bronze insert in the load bearing side. Testing proved the silver plated rods were stronger. I have used silver bearing solder on bronze that was excessively worn. Incidentally, honing does not guarantee a round bearing surface. To be really accurate you need a reamer.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 104May 28, 2019 at 9:55 am #176173
I am aware of the silver plating and bronze insert. The gentleman states the rods are out of round approximately .002. My understanding was the silver was there as an aid to breakin? Just as OMC continued to use on cages of the roller bearings of much later engines. Garry, I agree honing might not true the hole, but he is looking for clearance. It was just a suggestion. I don’t think he would ever ream .001 or .002 smoothly. The clearance on these rods is critical. I would look for NOS rods myself.
Dan in TN
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 46May 28, 2019 at 11:43 am #176179
GG9120A is the Sea King equlivent. Frank, Reminds me of the old Chevy Babbit beaters Remove shims to remove wear. They had a 15lb oil pump.May 29, 2019 at 11:19 am #176241
Thank you for all the suggestions. I was able to get one rod shimmed at .006 and it turns freely. I will be doing the other rod soon. readings might have been off, haven’t measured anything in a long time.May 29, 2019 at 1:14 pm #176254
You obviously have it apart. Be sure to replace the lower main bearing seal. Those motors were plagued by seal failure, which let water into the crankcase. Water and rust destroyed the silver plating and the remainder of the aluminum rod would melt and fuse to the crankpin. Most people would look at it and say it was an oil failure. Nope, it was a water problem, not an oil problem.
You must be logged in to access attached files.May 29, 2019 at 5:08 pm #176270
Yes, I found several discussions about the seal. Looks like the lip faces out instead of the metal out? Thanks for your help.May 29, 2019 at 7:13 pm #176282
That is correct. The goal is to keep water out. No problem is some oil/fuel escapes.
Canada Member - 1 Year
Topics: 73May 29, 2019 at 9:18 pm #176303
Good to know about that seal. I just picked up a 56 ELTO 12. I’ll make sure to check it.
Upper Canada Chapter
uccaomci.comJuly 7, 2019 at 10:32 am #178535
I’m nearing the finish line on this motor but the stator plate is loose and nothing seems to tighten it up. The four screws are tight. My first thought is there’s something missing that isn’t listed in the parts manual. Numbers 42, 43, and 44 on the powerhead page are what I have on this motor. http://www.richardlpaquette.ca/12D13VManual.PDF
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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