1956 Gale 12D13 12hp outboard

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    vintage.1958


    Replies: 16
    Topics: 2
    #176112

    Hello, I have a 1956 Gale 12D13 outboard that I found seized. Both connecting rods were seized to the crankshaft. There doesn’t appear
    to be any noticeable damage to the rods or crankshaft. I measured the rods and crankshaft and found the connecting rod crank
    ends to be .870 – .872 and are .002 out of round. The specifications call for the crankpins to be .873 – .8735 and the rod crankpin bores
    .874 – .8745 Both crank pins on the crank shaft are .873 and are not out-of-round. I’m curious as to why the connecting rods are smaller than the crank shaft
    crankpins. As I stated before, there is no noticeable damage to the rods or crankshaft. Why would they be undersized in relation to the crankpins?

    frankr
    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year
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    #176134

    Only logical explanation is somebody filed the caps to “adjust” them. Don’t feel bad, that’s one of the first mistakes I made when I first started working on motors while still in high school. Part if the learning process.

    You can cut some shims from brass shim stock to salvage the rods. If you can find somebody to sell you some shim stock without giving you a stare like you are stupid or something.

    • This reply was modified 6 months, 2 weeks ago by frankrfrankr.
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    vintage.1958


    Replies: 16
    Topics: 2
    #176139

    Never gave that a thought. I’m old enough to know what shim stock is 🙂 I have some sitting around here someplace. Thank you!

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    dan-in-tn

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1001
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    #176157

    Might be easier to hone the rod bores that little bit? Just a suggestion. Might make them rounder again too.

    Dan in TN

    frankr
    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4576
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    #176167

    Nope, absolutely not. I’m sure Dan knows this but hasn’t thought about it. Those rods are silver plated and the silver is the bearing. Hone it out and the bearing is gone.

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    garry-in-michigan

    Lifetime Member
    Replies: 3288
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    #176169

    Earlier rods had a cast in bronze insert in the load bearing side. Testing proved the silver plated rods were stronger. I have used silver bearing solder on bronze that was excessively worn. Incidentally, honing does not guarantee a round bearing surface. To be really accurate you need a reamer.

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    dan-in-tn

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1001
    Topics: 104
    #176173

    I am aware of the silver plating and bronze insert. The gentleman states the rods are out of round approximately .002. My understanding was the silver was there as an aid to breakin? Just as OMC continued to use on cages of the roller bearings of much later engines. Garry, I agree honing might not true the hole, but he is looking for clearance. It was just a suggestion. I don’t think he would ever ream .001 or .002 smoothly. The clearance on these rods is critical. I would look for NOS rods myself.

    Dan in TN

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    jeff-register

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1137
    Topics: 47
    #176179

    GG9120A is the Sea King equlivent. Frank, Reminds me of the old Chevy Babbit beaters Remove shims to remove wear. They had a 15lb oil pump.

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    vintage.1958


    Replies: 16
    Topics: 2
    #176241

    Thank you for all the suggestions. I was able to get one rod shimmed at .006 and it turns freely. I will be doing the other rod soon. readings might have been off, haven’t measured anything in a long time.

    frankr
    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4576
    Topics: 43
    #176254

    You obviously have it apart. Be sure to replace the lower main bearing seal. Those motors were plagued by seal failure, which let water into the crankcase. Water and rust destroyed the silver plating and the remainder of the aluminum rod would melt and fuse to the crankpin. Most people would look at it and say it was an oil failure. Nope, it was a water problem, not an oil problem.

    12hp-Gale-lower-seal-2

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    vintage.1958


    Replies: 16
    Topics: 2
    #176270

    Yes, I found several discussions about the seal. Looks like the lip faces out instead of the metal out? Thanks for your help.

    frankr
    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4576
    Topics: 43
    #176282

    That is correct. The goal is to keep water out. No problem is some oil/fuel escapes.

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    wbeaton

    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 706
    Topics: 77
    #176303

    Good to know about that seal. I just picked up a 56 ELTO 12. I’ll make sure to check it.

    Wayne
    Upper Canada Chapter

    uccaomci.com

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    vintage.1958


    Replies: 16
    Topics: 2
    #178535

    I’m nearing the finish line on this motor but the stator plate is loose and nothing seems to tighten it up. The four screws are tight. My first thought is there’s something missing that isn’t listed in the parts manual. Numbers 42, 43, and 44 on the powerhead page are what I have on this motor. http://www.richardlpaquette.ca/12D13VManual.PDF

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    frankr
    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4576
    Topics: 43
    #178537

    Those are what holds it. You do have # 44 right side up, don’t you? It goes flat side up.

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