Home Forum Ask A Member 1956 Gale Buccaneer, 25 hp, over running

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  • #1656
    davidk
    Participant

      US Member - 2 Years

      I have a 56 Buccaneer, 25hp. I’ve been on a spiritual journey with this motor for several years now. Seems like anything that can go wrong has gone wrong but I keep plugging away, replacing, resealing, resetting. Feels like I’m trying to convince this dog who’s boss, but it just keeps crapping on my rug. But, I just can’t quit her……..yet.

      So, now I seem to have a problem with the cut-out switch. The engine intermittently over runs. Took the cut out switch apart, diaphragm look good, cleaned the contacts inside (they were a little carbonized). Vacuum and pressure tested it. Appears to be functional.

      This motor has some significant hours on it. Idles nicely, except that it over ran when starting yesterday. Will an older, well run (or poorly run) outboard, with the cut-out switch, sometimes lose it’s ability to create adequate vacuum to activate the switch? Seems like a large spring in the switch, but the parts diagram shows the same. Can that/should that spring be shortened to reduce resistance to cut-out? Will the engine run better if I repaint it as a Sea King?

      Thanks for any mechanical and/or relationship counseling.
      -David

      #17373
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        You could try connecting the cut out switch to a vacuum pump while running to see if it drops a cylinder when the proper amount of vacuum is applied.

        #17374
        chris-p
        Participant

          Im sorry, but Im not understanding what is going on. What do you mean by over ran?

          #17376
          frankr
          Participant

            US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

            The vacuum cut-out switch won’t totally prevent a runaway condition, it senses a runaway condition that is beginning and keeps it from going totally berserk. It may take it a few seconds to get it under control again.

            Having said that, there are a few springs for those switches. You have to have the right one in there. The switch can be vacuum tested, but I would have to search for the specs. Actually, I don’t think I’ve ever tested one, except to see if it works under actual conditions.

            If it runs and idles as it should, there is adequate vacuum.

            #17379
            chris-p
            Participant

              Ah ok I understand now.

              Are you running it in water? The main cause for that is lack of backpressure on the exhaust.

              #17381
              davidk
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years
                quote Chris_P:

                Ah ok I understand now.

                Are you running it in water? The main cause for that is lack of backpressure on the exhaust.

                Yes. A barrel yesterday, but also on a lake last year.

                #17385
                davidk
                Participant

                  US Member - 2 Years

                  My manual says "A cutout switch has been provided to prevent excessive idling speed with gear shift in "neutral" position. It also assists in decelerating and stopping motor when throttle control is rapidly turned to stop"stop" position under emergency conditions. Function of this switch is automatic and does not require any adjustment or attention."

                  The motor over runs, revs up, or "runs away," not responding to throttling down. I think the cut-out is meant to short out one piston when you decelerate, right?

                  #17389
                  david-bartlett
                  Participant

                    David,

                    Correct, the switch shorts one set of points.

                    #17409
                    chris-p
                    Participant

                      Is your linkage sticking? Ensure return spring present, and linkage greased.

                      #17410
                      frankr
                      Participant

                        US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                        I’m suspecting the problem is as follows:
                        The carburetor butterfly must completely close at idle position in order to develop enough vacuum to close the switch. Is it? Make sure the synchronization is correct. Butterfly should just barely be ready to open when mark on the brass cam is aligned with the pointer on the intake manifold (NOT the roller). And the spring must be there to pull it shut, as Chris said. And of course, the whole thing (speed control) has to be coming down to idle position.

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