Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1956 Johnson RDE-18E
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September 17, 2020 at 2:37 pm #216676
Harmattan: I hate to judge a book by its cover, but I agree with Frank. How much did you pay for this engine? The price needs to be low enough so you won’t mind writing this project off if it needs too much work. And, like Frank says, you will need to find the proper starter bracket, because the engine cover will rattle without the cover mount that is supposed to be on the correct starter bracket. Like Lindy and Buccaneer said, check compression and crack open the lower gearcase fluid fill plug, do not remove the phillips head screw in that are or the internal shift linkage components will fall out of place. Milky or raw water in the gear lube spells trouble.
I am trying not to judge this ugly duckling unfairly, it could be in good mechanical condition. Generally speaking, an old engine like this will require the following to be a “reliable daily runner”:
Ignition overhaul (you will need the special OMC puller and a ring gear holder to remove and reinstall the flywheel)
Fuel system overhaul including carb cleaning/rebuild/new fuel lines….Do you have the two line fuel/pressure tank for this engine? If so, is it clean inside? The tank is worthless if rusted or fouled from old fuel inside
New waterpump The seller already admitted the engine doesn’t pump water, there could be many causes for this. Some simple, perhaps he just didn’t have the water level high enough over the gearcase. Perhaps the impeller is work/broken. Or, perhaps there is some other cooling system issue. Again, the gearcase will have to be torn down if watery or milky gear lube is present. Resealing one of these gearcases is not as easy as many would proclaim. Yes, most could probably get it apart, attempt to reseal, and reassemble…. But, few can do it properly. You will need to pressure test the gearcase to pinpoint any leakage areas and check to see it is properly resealed after replacing seals/orings, etc.
So, only you can decide if you are up to all these tasks. It sounds as if you haven’t had much experience working on OMC outboards. Reviewing the proper OMC service manual first is always a great place to start. There are some videos out there, but most are posted by self proclaimed experts that have little OMC experience and have no business advising others. There are a few videos posted by members here that are more reliable though.
Let us know what you decide to do….D
Tried to copy and paste, says I already posted this…September 18, 2020 at 3:31 am #216728The nasty black greasy stains make me think the shifter shaft is wore out where it goes through the exhaust housing. Better said, the exhaust housing is wore out where the shifter shaft goes through. However said, if true, the shifter shaft will move up and down, rather than moving the shift rod up and down, resulting in incomplete shift, resulting in trashed clutch dog and gears. Some well-wishers will say “adjust it”. I said enough now.
September 18, 2020 at 9:56 am #216747well if nobody mentioned it…. forget about the glamour of an electronic ignition on this oldy… see the rde19 ignition
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- This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by crosbyman.
September 18, 2020 at 9:59 am #216749btw you will find all the info you need in the red johnson manual
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September 18, 2020 at 10:02 am #216750ok second try after my last POOF… the red book will give you all the info you need
see the URL above this red book in the picture retrype it to reach that red book manual
posting that link info causes our replies to POOF… so just retype the URL on a google search
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September 20, 2020 at 10:31 pm #216957Gentlemen, thank you, each man, for your individual and corporate response to this post. I just celebrated my 59th birthday this past Monday but I feel like a newborn when it comes to antique outboards. Your ideas, suggestions, and wisdom, both individual and together, is an invaluable gift for someone like myself. I know that I get the benefit of years of time spent by all of you enjoying these treasures from our past. I do not take that for granted, and I really appreciate all that you bring to the table.
That said…………….I wanted to respond to the different ideas all of you made in response to my post. Here is what I know about the motor……
~~~The seller informed me, he and his brother did have the motor running shortly before I bought it. He is a career man with the Coast Guard. They basically hooked a hose on the lower unit so that it circulated water through the motor as they ran it by applying gas into the carb by hand just for the purpose of making sure the motor ran. According to them, it runs fine.
~~~The Impeller/water pump needs replacement and the lower unit will need seals replaced.
~~~It will need most likely ignition parts replacement and I will have to locate the cover over the correct starter mount which a few of you have mentioned I will need to find and put on in place of the starter mount that is currently installed. The current starter does work.
~~~I have not been able to get the motor to tilt up. I am not sure if I am not performing that function properly or not. There is a small tab under the front handle that shows the words lock, unlock. when I move that tab, I am not able to release the tilt locking mechanism. Not sure what I am not doing right there.
~~~As far as the greasy black stain running down from the shifter, I do not know if the shifter works properly or not as the linkage is disconnected. Also, in the first set of pics, you can see the opening on the left side of the lower unit where that linkage connects. That small cover is lost and needs to be replaced and the linkage needs to be reconnected
~~~Basically the 4 different areas that need to be repaired/worked on are……
1, Ignition parts replaced.
2. Fuel system will be overhauled(carb, lines, etc.) I have the original fuel tank with both double connectors, one still on the tank which is in really nice condition, and the other which attaches to the engine.
3. New waterpump/impeller to replace the current ones.
4. Lower units seals will most likely have to be replaced.
So all of you know, I paid $300 for the motor. After seeing your initial response to the post, it seems I paid too much for the unit. I believe I was motivated because the price of one of these motors in top condition is very costly. I guess I figured I could get the motor in really good shape for less total money that what it would cost me to buy one already in top shape. I could be wrong here but I have seen the prices of some of these motors fully restored and they are not cheap. So, I went ahead and bough it. The seller gave me until September 23rd to return the motor for what I paid for it if I did not think it was the right thing for my purposes.
My fear is that my lack of experience working on these motors will prevent me from doing the job right or not being able to finish the work that needs to be done. When I bought it, I could see in my minds eye what it would look like and how it would perform when finished. I have seen pictures of these motors and there are some videos on Youtube showing them at work. They really look like fine motors when they are in good condition. I would suspect if I do keep it, I will gain at least some good experience trying to repair it and if need be, I can always take it to a competent mechanic who can do what I cannot.
Having said all that, I would ask any of you that can respond to let me know if and where I can get the proper bracket and cover that fits over the flywheel and whatever other parts I need up top that you can see(not the ignition parts, I think I can find those). If you have any ideas as to where to get ANY of the parts I will need to get this thing in top condition, please let me know and I will do that.
Even more important than all of that, I wanted to ask if any of you know of any members who live in this area? My wife and I live in Culpeper, Va 30 miles due west of Fredericksburg where Interstate 95 goes north and south. I would like to find fellow members in this area anyway, but if you guys know who that might be and how I can get in touch with them, maybe they might be able to assist me even in some small way.I am also open to any one of you contacting me, particularly if you have or have had this same model of Johnson 30 HP. I am willing to learn how to fix one of these motors but I know how important a competent person can be for someone in my shoes. This motor needs some work but I believe it has the bones to become what it was made to be at its best. It will just take some time, effort, and some dollars to get it done.
My cell is 540 419 8391 if anyone wants to contact me or provide my number to someone who can help me with some good ideas. All I ask is that you not give my number to anyone not connected to this venture. I will take a leap of faith you guys will know exactly what to do. I have attached pics to this post showing more details of the starter and bracket areas as well as the carb section so you can get a better idea of those areas.
Let me know what you think. Thanks again in advance for all your help. You guys are the best.
September 20, 2020 at 11:07 pm #216969I would return it and keep looking. Try AOMCI meets in your area or craigslist. Just my opinion.
September 21, 2020 at 12:41 am #216971I recently completed a full restoration on a 1956 Johnson RD-18 that was originally a manual start model, but I added electric starting in the restoration. The correct starter bracket with the front cowl support pin you need is OMC part #376885. That bracket was used on the 1957 Johnson 35hp but will bolt up correctly on your 1956 model.
By “cover over the flywheel” I assume you mean the complete manual recoil starter. That is OMC part #376663.
You might find the electric starter bracket and recoil starter by placing an ad in the Classifieds section here on the AOMCI site, or maybe on Ebay.
The gearcase seal kit is Sierra 18-2686. The complete water pump kit is OMC #379774 which includes impeller, lower plate and a new impeller housing. Kit #379767 includes a new impeller only. The carburetor overhaul kit is OMC #439074.
The gearcase, water pump and carburetor kits can be found on marineengine.com
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20โEvery 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.โ
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."September 21, 2020 at 7:59 am #216982OK, well I honestly believe you paid way too much for this engine. Yes, you will see big asking prices for these engines in decent running/cosmetic condition, but the actual selling prices are usually much lower. If it was me, I would try to return the engine and get a refund. I appreciate your honesty, when it comes to outboard mechanical experience. What kind of mechanical experience do you have? Are you planning on restoring this engine cosmetically also? If so, do you have prep/painting experience? If so, this project is a very big undertaking, even for an experienced OMC guy. Unfortunately, someone has slapped a cheap spray job on this engine, it is usually better to keep the original finish. Another obstacle is the wiring for the electric start, it will be very difficult to find the correct harnesses for this engine that are still serviceable.
I’m sure the seller is being honest by saying he got the engine to fire by spraying fuel in the carb. This doesn’t mean the engine is in good shape internally. I would do a compression test on the engine if you really want to keep it before deciding. You can crank it electrically by using jumper cables directly on the starter motor, just do this outside and clean up any fuel spills on the engine first.
The seller has advised that the gearcase will need to be resealed, so I would go ahead and drain out whatever lube is in there to see how bad it is now. Resealing the gearcase requires complete disassembly, you will probably discover worn clutch dog/gear lugs while you are in there also. The bearings will be shot if the gearcase is full of water also. This repair requires several hundred dollars worth of parts, and is not a job for an inexperienced guy.
The seller has advised you that the engine will need a new water pump? Who knows how he has come to this conclusion, looks as if he couldn’t even figure out how to get the gearcase off. If there is a cooling issue, that doesn’t mean it just needs a water pump….There are many causes for cooling issues, perhaps the powerhead is damaged allowing water to enter the powerhead, who knows….
Finding a recoil starter won’t be hard, but finding the correct electric starter bracket will be a challenge….
Hopefully, there is a member in your area that is willing to share some time with you, but this will be a big commitment on his/her part. I live in RI, so am not much help.
I hate to discourage someone like this, I just fear you have taken on too much with this project. I would like to see you find something in better physical/cosmetic condition, that requires less repair work, for less money. Local AOMCI meets are a good place to find better projects.
I would be happy to call you if that will help you decide….Let me know…DonSeptember 21, 2020 at 9:02 am #216985I didn’t mention it my previous post on parts you will need, but as others have noted, I also think you paid too much for this motor, particularly if you didn’t have the previous owner do an actual demonstration of the motor running. In addition to the 4 basic repairs you noted, other items that may be needed will run the bill up very quickly. As Don noted, gearcase bearings and gears, and major powerhead parts will add up faster than you might think. Having just completed a full mechanical and cosmetic restoration on a ’56 30hp, I know I have a good frame of reference for what you are about to do. And if you are questioning your experience and ability to complete the repairs, you would have to find a friend or someone here in the club to help you. It’s doubtful you could find a marine dealership willing to work on a motor this old.
Coincidentally, I’ve been considering selling my restored 30hp. If you are interested, let me know and I will give you a call.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20โEvery 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.โ
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings." -
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