Topic: 1957 Big Twin Flywheel Cracks – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 27 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 6 months ago by Buccaneer.

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July 21, 2020 at 7:58 pm #209375
Buccaneer
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Of the 2-1/2 1957 Evinrude 35 hp motors I have, I got one running,
and second one about 90 % back together.
The first one was electric start, and flywheel was okay.
The other two, both manual start motors, have visible cracks
on the inside of the flywheel between the puller bolt holes.
Searching on this site, I find these old post about the subject mater…….
==================
1957 (580212) manual start
1957, 1958, 1959 (580336) electric start

July 27, 2015 at 3:25 am#20980Reply
There was a service bulletin on those motors from that timeframe. Flywheels got stress cracks. Something to do with bonding process to streel hub.
I had same exact issue with 57 Buccaneer 25hp like 3 years. I pretty much used same puller setup you describe to get inner hub off. Posted here
about it. Pictures and article on process ended up in outboarder mag.
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frankr
July 27, 2015 at 7:31 am#20987Reply
The bulletin was sent to all Evinrude, Johnson and Gale dealers. The dealers were replacing the modified flywheels under warranty because of the
cracks between the holes. As the bulletin says, the flywheels starting in 1959 had better hubs and the cracks are only superficial so don’t be
replacing them. Prior flywheels with the old hub did indeed come apart. The new hub fixed that. Look for the “Q”.
==============================
It sounds like I should look for a different flywheel.

What is Frank referring to regarding “Look for the Q”

Is the “Q” stamped on the flywheel that I need to look for?

Did the electric start flywheels “not” have the cracking problem?

In looking at Marine Engine parts diagram, it looks like 1957, 1958, 1959 all used
the same (580336) electric start flywheel.
There are some other flywheel numbers, but they don’t seem to be shared for all
three years……. not sure what the differences may be, or if they’d work.

Any enlightenment would be great! Thanks.

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July 21, 2020 at 9:28 pm #209381
frankr
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Q is by the rope notch. Sorry, I don’t remember top or bottom.
July 21, 2020 at 9:37 pm #209384
Buccaneer
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Thanks Frank, much appreciated!

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July 22, 2020 at 9:51 am #209423
fleetwin
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US Member - 2 Years
OK, just trying to learn here…. Does that bulletin imply that the hair line cracks on bucaneer’s flywheel are OK?? Seems like buccaneer’s flywheel is older than 1959 when the supposed improved hubs were introduced.
Again, not offering an opinion here, just trying to understand what that bulletin is saying….
July 22, 2020 at 11:40 am #209438
frankr
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The way I read it. Cracks on pre-’59 (no Q) are a concern. After ’59 (with Q), cracks are only in the skin.

BTW,, I’ve seen early ones pulled right off the hub. O course, I assume it was already broken.
July 22, 2020 at 12:23 pm #209440
fleetwin
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US Member - 2 Years
OK, so is this a ‘q’ flywheel, or is it NG?
July 22, 2020 at 12:47 pm #209447
Buccaneer
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I looked at my two cracked flywheels this morning, and see no “Q” on them. 🙁
I fixed up one Big Twin for myself, and thought I’d fix another one up with
the left over parts and sell it, but don’t plan on buying a $100 flywheel
just to sell it at a lose. Maybe I’ll find one next year at Tomahawk.

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July 22, 2020 at 1:04 pm #209450
outboardnut
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As I read it- small cracks are ok
“If hairline cracks appear on the flywheel so marked, do not request replacements these minuscule cracks do not by themselves justify replacing by wheels under warranty or otherwise”
July 27, 2020 at 6:19 pm #210069
Buccaneer
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US Member
I put the Big Twin together with the cracked flywheel to see if I had a “runner” before
looking for a different flywheel. I couldn’t get it started as gas wasn’t going into the carb,
which was strange because the carb was thoroughly disassembled and cleaned. Had to take the
carb back off. Found the steel tip float needle was stuck in it’s seat. It wasn’t gunked up
and was clean as new underwear still in the package. I guess all the “beat marks” on the
carb from a P.O. should have been a tip off. Anyway, dug around and found a different
needle at seat that worked good.
Being manual start, I wasn’t sure what was going to happen, but it fired after two pulls
and was running in three.
The carb kept running out of gas at first. The tank was elevated close to what it would
be sitting on the bottom of a boat. It would keep running if I’d run the pumper on
the tank once in a while. I fiddled with the carb settings some and it eventually
seemed to be moving gas okay.
At the time, I didn’t think to loosen the cap on the fuel tank to see if there was an
adequate sounding pressure “build-up”.
Not sure what was going on for sure, and I’m hesitant on doing a “Lake test” with
the cracked flywheel. I see the flywheel has a little “wobble” while running….. not
sure if it’s just warped a little, or because of the cracks, but there’s no “wiggling”
of the flywheel when shut off.

If I have trouble with motor pressurizing the tank in the future, what did the
mechanic’s of yore do to check the air pressure going to the tank?
Seems like I remember hearing 4 to 5 psi was normal. ??
Can I just put my vintage automotive “vacuum / pressure” gas in a “T” on the
air line going to the tank?
Thanks.

https://youtu.be/t-mgt3Ce4eo

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July 27, 2020 at 6:32 pm #210074
need2fish
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Is it too late to get mine replaced?
- This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by need2fish.
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